I am replacing 400 sq ft of flooring on a covered front porch. We are in Northern CAlifornia. The material we are using is 3/4 X 4 tongue and groove vertical grain dogulas fur. (this is what was on it before) The opening, due to expansion and contraction, between some of the boards had been filed with latex caulk and then painted. Is there a better filler for outdoor use? The porch is completly covered however the South end does get exposer to the elements more than the North end.
Jim
Wilton CA
Replies
Those opening and closing joints are pretty much the nature of wood flooring. Wood moves. No amount of caulk or filling of any kind is going to last on an exterior floor. If you want a seamless floor you'll have to use something besides wood.
Paint it before assembly
We use vertical grain doug fir on the porches of historical structures.
It is all painted before installation. We typicall get 20 years life before replacement with repaints of the traffic areas every couple of years.
We never put any sealant in the joints as it prevents the natural movement.
jim
I'll agree with the non use of fillers or caulk. All parts should be painted or sealed all sides, cuts, everything. Further, it is wood and air movement below might help it's expansion and contraction swings. Also, the moisture content of it should be close to what is prevalent outside before it is installed.
Porch Flooring
I would like to thank all who replied. I installed this porch 14 years ago and the only problem that came up was on the South side where more sun and rain are thrown at it. There was some maintenance on it, however not as much as could have been applied. I'm going to take everyones advise and paint the flooring before instalation (the old flooring was also painted) then pay more attention to maintenance this time around.
jim
Even on a good job done right, there are areas that weather faster-Ends of the boards are one. They need to be carefully watched for any open grain appearing and sealed.
Also, proper flashing at house connections as well as penetrations is a big help to keeping water from sitting in areas it shouldn't.
best of luck.
Porch Flooring
Calvin
You are right, the problem started at the end grain on the South side. Also there was trouble where the railing posts went throught the deck. This time I am going to mount the railing posts to the deck. What do you think of this idea?
Jim
Damned if you do...........
and the rest of that old saying.................
the ticket is to not let water pool, sit, hang on, saturate end grain-that goes with cutouts for posts and other penetrations and of course your open ends on the flooring (though what kills that is the constant-wet/dry/wet/dry.......that opens the grain ends so many times that they refuse to close up like b/4.................so, a constant sponge wicking up any moisture and repelling any sealer.) and also the new post you're going to sit on top of the flooring.
You attention to detail is what is needed the most in this-use a porch post stand off so it can stay dry. Any trim you apply, think how it's going to react-Grain direction of a base trim running horizontal wrapped around a post of built up cover, will work against each other as they expand and contract.
Build your post if built up, so the inside can allow moist air to escape at the top, any water can drain out the bottom.
Rather than over lay moldings at the bottom, build up bases with interior self flashing so one level is placed over another below, but refuses to allow water to enter above.
Go to Garymkatz.com and see if Gary doesn't have some details on porch post construction-it'll be way easier to understand him with some pictures, video or drawings.
http://www.garymkatz.com/TrimTechniques/column_wrap.html