Replies

1. 
   SamT | Sep 02, 2009 05:51pm | #1

   I would worry about rot if the post was set directly on the stone.

   If you want a hidden connection that is more rot resistant, set your all thread and use a nut and support plate cut to fit the post as a standoff from the stone, then drypack under the support plate.

   I would also cut 1/8" deep by saw kerf wide grooves across the bottom of the post about 1/2" apart. When you trim out, seal the top of the trim to the post and leave the bottom of the trim 1/8"  - 1/4" above the stone.

   SamT
   A Pragmatic Classical Liberal, aka Libertarian.

   I'm always right!
   Except when I'm not.

2. 
   JAlden | Sep 02, 2009 10:59pm | #2

   Alright, my disclaimer first. I have not done this , only seen it.

   Take about a 3" piece of 6x6 PT, drill a hole through it and counterbore for a nut and washer. Bolt this down to your concrete. Now, place your post on top of this and toenail it to the PT piece.

   Then wrap it with some sort of base to hide the joint.

3. 
   Shep | Sep 02, 2009 11:58pm | #3

   I recently repaired a porch post that had rotted from sitting on concrete. What I did was replace the lower, square section with cedar, and screwed a piece of 3/4" Azek to the bottom of the post as the separation from the cement.

   Once all the new work was painted, you could barely see the piece of Azek.

   The only thing I wasn't too sure about was the load bearing capabilities of the Azek. But the porch I repaired didn't have all that heavy a roof structure.

1. 
   fingersandtoes | Sep 03, 2009 01:24am | #4

   "What I did was replace the lower, square section with cedar, and screwed a piece of 3/4" Azek to the bottom of the post as the separation from the cement."

   I use old pieces of Corian countertop or plastic kitchen cutting boards.

1. 
   whitedogstr8leg | Sep 04, 2009 08:14am | #5

    You COULD also use the same foam sealer that goes between foundations and sills.   They would act a a water barrier between the stone and your 6x6s.   Also, instead of just one "pin" between the porch and the posts, use two, either side by side, or front and back.    That way you are not relying on just one little pin to keep the post in place.   And, you could even just use two #3 rebars, "dowelled" into place in the stone with epoxy, and then set your posts onto the dowels.  " Although I have the right to remain stupid, I try not to abuse that right"

4. 
   AAguy | Sep 04, 2009 04:49pm | #6

   Our back porch currently has 3 4x6 treated posts resting on the concrete floor with no visible means of attachment. I think the weight of the porch ceiling and roof framing is holding them down quite well. Our front porch post was installed the same way with only the weight of the upper structure holding it in place. I know, because I replaced that post with a better looking round manufactured one a few years ago.

   By the way, this house has been around for 19 years with no post movement.

5. 
   Squash | Sep 04, 2009 07:54pm | #7

   Well, a lot of this is going to vary based purely on local code. 

   First, from the standpoint of rot prevention, there already have been a lot of good ideas shared but here's one more.  I always seal the bottom (and tops for that matter) of posts with a peel and stick flashing like Grace Vycor or ProtectoWrap.  If they are going to be visible - like yours will, I just trim the excess off after with a nice sharp knife.  This isn't perfect, but it's sure better than nothing.  I would also add a brush-on sealant to the mix as well to further seal the end grain.

   As far as avoiding a saddle connector, local code prevails.  A lot of this is going to depend on uplift restrictions and whatnot, but from a lateral movement standpoint I don't see why a threaded rod or piece of rebar embedded into the footing and then epoxied into the post woulnd't cut it.  Of course, another option is to use the saddle connector and then add something to hide it - some nice column wraps or something on that idea. 

   Hope that helps a bit more...

   Nick

6. 
   rdesigns | Sep 04, 2009 10:33pm | #8

   Rod and ring:

   This is the idea of a steel rod (rebar or even 1/2" galvanized pipe) that fits into a hole drilled into the bottom of the post and down into the stone or concrete.

   But, instead of having the rod support the weight, set a spacer ring over the rod, upon which the post will rest. The spacer ring could be made of a short (say, 1/2" to 1" ) section of 2" galvanized pipe. No rust, no rot, and the ring gives a large bearing surface for the post. The rod provides resistance to lateral movement, and the ring supports the weight.

   I would recommend leaving the small space under post as-is, rather than trying to fill in under it. This allows easy drying, and you really don't notice the space from the usual perspective.

7. 
   jeffrey410 | Sep 08, 2009 04:15am | #9

   To SamT, JAlden, Shep, fingersandtoes, Whitedogstr8leg, AAGuy, Squash & RDesigns,

   thanks to all of you for replying to my request for advice. All of it is very useful and I've got a clear plan of attack now.

   cheers,
   Jeffrey 410.