Replies

1. 
   Shavey | Mar 17, 2006 03:16am | #1

   do you have any pictures....

1. 
   JDRHI | Mar 17, 2006 06:20pm | #2

   Ferget pictures.....what he needs is punctuation marks.

   I can't make heads or tails of that post!

   J. D. Reynolds

   Home Improvements

1. 
   T3 | Mar 17, 2006 09:30pm | #3

   sorry jd i did not go to rocket science school like some other people.   p.s. i would rather talk t o someone with a little more experience. who knew everyone on breaktime was a school teacher. oh, and jd don't take it to heart.

1. 
   JDRHI | Mar 18, 2006 01:30am | #7

   Lighten up Francis......it was a joke....granted, it was at your expense....but it was just a joke. Most folks around here don't take themselves quite so seriously. We're a bit, thicker skinned.

   I think they're serving tea and crumpets over on the Cooks Talk forum....perhaps thats more your speed.

   Your post was one long run on sentence....not even capitalizations to give a hint a new sentence was starting.

   Trust me....no one expects Harvard quality grammar on a building forum. But if you truly want some help with your project, you at least need to be able to express yourself clearly enough for the rest of us to have a clue as to what you're trying to say.

   Again....lighten up.....throw in a period every now and again.

   And Welcome to Breaktime. 

   J. D. Reynolds

   Home Improvements

1. 
   T3 | Mar 18, 2006 11:45pm | #10

   sorry jd it was a long day and i was very tired. but did you say you would like a spot of tea.i prefer a good strong cup of coffe.seya pal............

2. 
   JDRHI | Mar 19, 2006 12:21am | #14

   No hard feelings brotha....we all have rough days every now and again.

   Hope you've gotten some of the answers you were looking for.

   J. D. Reynolds

   Home Improvements

3. 
   T3 | Mar 18, 2006 11:50pm | #11

   one more thing jd i try to get along with everyone. and i been on breaktime for quite sometime now.i just been away from it for a little while.

2. 
   T3 | Mar 17, 2006 09:49pm | #4

   oh and jd i don't know if you know this but here is how you spell forget, i just figured i would help you out on that spelling.    lots of luck jd.

1. 
   NickNukeEm | Mar 17, 2006 10:48pm | #5

   Did you want answers, or a war?  Tough to tell from this angle.  My guess is, you done shot your chances in the mispunctuated foot.

    "I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul."  Invictus, by Henley.

2. 
   Huck | Mar 17, 2006 11:26pm | #6

   Is this what you're talking about? You want to know how to frame the porch roof?

   View Image

   "he...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain

1. 
   T3 | Mar 19, 2006 12:27am | #15

   sorry huck about my writing before but i was very tired and i had very bad indijestion all week. i was just trying to rush off line.but you nailed it perfectly.that whole shaded area is where i'm trying to build aporch roof i already know i have to peel back some of the shingles. but how do i get around that valley.and also what type of pitch should i go with,because the house already has a 5-12 pitch (22.5  degree) and we get a fairly good amount of bad weather here in CONN.  should i run another valley rafter and  how .  thanyou. p.s i don't mean any disrespect to anyone.

1. 
   Framer | Mar 19, 2006 01:37am | #16

   "but how do i get around that valley.and also what type of pitch should i go with,because the house already has a 5-12 pitch (22.5 degree) and we get a fairly good amount of bad weather here in CONN. should i run another valley rafter and how ."T3,You have a lot of options but what is the width of your house and what is the projection/run of the porch from your house? Will the top of the porch girder be even with the existing top plates and the overhangs and fascia line be the same?If the run on your porch roof isn't bigger than the run on your main roof you can go with a 5/12 pitch because it won't be higher than the main roof ridge. If the run is bigger than you have to go with a lower pitch. I wouldn't go lower than a 4/12. A 4/12 might also get you higher than your main ridge depending how big it is. Also how high up on the main roof it goes.You will cut all your commons when you fu=figure out what pitch you will use and when you get to the inside corner of the house you will string a line from the top of the new rafters where they hit the top of the existing sheathing and string it all the way to the existing valley.Then you will string the line from there down to where the top of the plumbcut mark is at there end of the rafter is where it is the overhang/back of fascia meets the top of the sheathing. That's where the center of the new valley will go and plane in with the top of the new rafters. That's also the guide where you will set your valley sleeper back for the rafters to plane in.I dfrew red lines over Huck's drawing representing the new roof line and new valley line. The second drawing is the side view.Joe Carola

   
1. 
   T3 | Mar 19, 2006 09:21pm | #17

   from the ridge to to the edge of the soffit or overhang =14ft, from the end of the house, which is where the porch will start, all the way to the existing valley,(bottom edge measurement)= about 18ft. the gable bump out is approx  5to6ft, out. the with of the floor is 5ft with by about 20ft long to the door.the gable bump out ridge is tied in to the main ridge slightely a bit lower. they both look like 5-12 pitches,i'm sure the main roof is.it is a ranch house so i don't have much room to work with for overhead room.so am i better off opening up the overhang and rest my new joists on the existing wall and nail them.and being it is  a ranch with a 5-12 pitch,do i have to make my top cuts at 22.5 degree.and do i need to just nail the new rafters to the existing ones or do i need extra support,and does the sleeper get laid out flat.i guess i'll know how far back to peel off old shingles,once i take my measurements for rafter height.sorry about all the questions.if you now a better way i'll go with it,thanks.and what ever info you give me would be very much appreciated.also i'm sorry if it sounds like i'm talking in circles,i don't know any other way to explaine it. but i do know you give great advice,no i'm sorry excellent advice..

1. 
   MikeSmith | Mar 19, 2006 10:04pm | #18

   t3... joe's suggestion is the same one i was going to make once i realized that huck had drawn what the condition is

   now .. what the guys are trying to tell you is this:  use your  ENTER key to break up the text..

   <<<

   from the ridge to to the edge of the soffit or overhang =14ft, from the end of the house, which is where the porch will start, all the way to the existing valley,(bottom edge measurement)= about 18ft. the gable bump out is approx  5to6ft, out. the with of the floor is 5ft with by about 20ft long to the door.the gable bump out ridge is tied in to the main ridge slightely a bit lower. they both look like 5-12 pitches,i'm sure the main roof is.it is a ranch house so i don't have much room to work with for overhead room.so am i better off opening up the overhang and rest my new joists on the existing wall and nail them.and being it is  a ranch with a 5-12 pitch,do i have to make my top cuts at 22.5 degree.and do i need to just nail the new rafters to the existing ones or do i need extra support,and does the sleeper get laid out flat.i guess i'll know how far back to peel off old shingles,once i take my measurements for rafter height.sorry about all the questions.if you now a better way i'll go with it,thanks.and what ever info you give me would be very much appreciated.also i'm sorry if it sounds like i'm talking in circles,i don't know any other way to explaine it. but i do know you give great advice,no i'm sorry excellent advice..>>>

   kinda like this ...

   <<<

   from the ridge to to the edge of the soffit or overhang =14ft,

    from the end of the house, which is where the porch will start, all the way to the existing valley,(bottom edge measurement)= about 18ft.

   the gable bump out is approx  5to6ft, out.

   the with of the floor is 5ft with by about 20ft long to the door.

   the gable bump out ridge is tied in to the main ridge slightely a bit lower. they both look like 5-12 pitches,i'm sure the main roof is.

   it is a ranch house so i don't have much room to work with for overhead room.

   so am i better off opening up the overhang and rest my new joists on the existing wall and nail them.    ( ? )

   and being it is  a ranch with a 5-12 pitch,do i have to make my top cuts at 22.5 degree.

   and do i need to just nail the new rafters to the existing ones or do i need extra support,

   and does the sleeper get laid out flat.

   i guess i'll know how far back to peel off old shingles,once i take my measurements for rafter height.sorry about all the questions.

   if you now a better way i'll go with it,thanks.and what ever info you give me would be very much appreciated.

   also i'm sorry if it sounds like i'm talking in circles,i don't know any other way to explaine it. but i do know you give great advice,

   no i'm sorry excellent advice..

    

    

    

    

    Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

2. 
   Piffin | Mar 19, 2006 10:52pm | #19

   Thanks Mike.
   I figured he was still overly tired, but it was sure wearing my eyes out.I wanted to draw him a picture but I was lost in the run-on and Joe beat me to it anyway. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

3. 
   Piffin | Mar 18, 2006 01:45am | #8

   I couldn't make heads or tails out of most of your description, ( do you talk in run-on sentences without coming up for breathe too?) but I did gather at the last that you will have a low porch roof tying into a L with a valley in that roof.

   So you need to select a roof material appropriate for a low slope roof. I use EPDM whenever possible. Another choice can be the peel and stick mineral surfaced ones like Polyglas.

   When you frame it, you should plan to tie back on the main roof quite a ways to get some slope, and you will need to remove roofing at least 18" and probably 36" further up-slope to lap the new material under the old and re-install up there.

   Did that come halfway close to an answer?

    

    

   Welcome to the
   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
   Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   T3 | Mar 18, 2006 11:56pm | #12

   sorry piff i was very tired,but what i was trying to say is how should i tie into the exissting valley. thanks for your help anyway.

4. 
   dieselpig | Mar 18, 2006 03:47am | #9

   T3,

   I'd love to help you out, but I really don't know for certain what you're asking.  Do you want to know how to frame it?   Roof it?  Design it?  Or are  you asking what materials to use?

   And fwiw, I can't argue with JD.  Your original post was really tough to decipher without any puncuation.  If you're not great at writing, just hit the return key every couple lines.  It makes it a little easier to read.

   So what is it you're asking?  Specifically?

   View Image
1. 
   T3 | Mar 19, 2006 12:03am | #13

   sorry diesel i was just very tired and got very bad indijestion all week,what i'm trying to do is frame over the valley that is already there.thanks for the help anyway.         ',./';