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porch roof construction

Canabuild | Posted in Construction Techniques on March 28, 2004 12:09pm

I have recently been asked to construct a roof over a wood deck in a retirement community. The community contains many park model and modular homes. The homeowners wish to have something much alike many of their neighbours roofed over decks. My concern is this–I learned that many of the standing sunroofs were built by the same man, constructed with 2×4 rafters 16 inch o.c. spanning approx 10 x10 feet and joing into a plate of 2 2×4’s on edge, with 4×4 post on either side. My question to those in the know is simple, should i copy this original design which i beleive to be poorly under built, or should i beef up the structure and if so to what??? thanks for your replies

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  1. davidmeiland | Mar 28, 2004 12:16am | #1

    Might want to beef that up. You could persuade me that a 2x4 can span 10 feet, because I've been in a lot of older houses with 2x4 ceiling joists (low slope roof, no possibility of much load in the attic), but I'd probably use 2x6. A 2x4 rim carrying all of the other 2x4s is a no-no, and I'd probably go to 2x8 for that. Someone with a bit of engineering background and/or some software could give you exact sizes.

    1. User avater
      Canabuild | Mar 28, 2004 12:37am | #5

      thanks for the reply, my next question is this. the deck is essentially "floating" on deck blocks and not tied into the home. any ideas on how i could put my posts below the frostline and pull it off estetically, or should i go the deck block route??

      1. User avater
        dieselpig | Mar 28, 2004 01:14am | #6

        What are "deck blocks" and the "deck block route"?

        1. User avater
          Canabuild | Mar 28, 2004 01:24am | #7

          prefab concrete post supports that sit above ground

          1. User avater
            dieselpig | Mar 28, 2004 01:39am | #8

            Ahhhhh yes.  I wouldn't use these for much of anything.  Can't imagine that they disperse much of a load.  I also didn't notice where you are building, but frost will throw those around easily.  I'd pour footings according to the code in your area.  As far as an aestheticaly pleasing post to footing connection goes, I would pour my footings at grade, and then use the appropriate Simpson hardware to accomplish both my stand-off and connection.  Any time I have an open roof (no solid walls) I also use alot of hardware to attach posts to beam/header and also hardware at the rafter/joist to beam connections.  Those style roofs blow off very easily.

          2. User avater
            Canabuild | Mar 28, 2004 01:42am | #9

            dually noted, thanks pig

          3. User avater
            dieselpig | Mar 28, 2004 01:44am | #10

            Hey nails, I just re-read this thread over to see if I was missing something.  What sort of roof are you putting on?  Will your rafters be sheathed and then shingled, or are you talking about one of those cheesy "roofs" made of that corrugated plastic stuff?

            I can't imagine a shingled roof's load path terminating on those footings you were describing.  I find it hard to believe that they are still standing.  That's why I am wondering if I am picturing something very different than you are building.  I am picturing a deck with posts supporting an upper beam or header.  This header would be carrying the rafters and possibly ceiling joists but could be left open without the ceiling.  Am I in the right ballpark?

          4. User avater
            Canabuild | Mar 28, 2004 01:51am | #11

            Exactly, only problem is, the deck has no post and is raised four feet above grade, the only thing holding up the hand-rail is the spindals. the roof will be sheathed and shingled. the park is full of these menageries, i beleive the 2x4 construction is to keep the weight load down, but i have a hard time explaining to the homeowner why this is not good enough, when 80% of them are constructed with post just sitting on a patio stone

          5. User avater
            dieselpig | Mar 28, 2004 02:03am | #12

            Move on if you've got to. 

            "If you want to buy a Ford Escort, then go ahead.  I build Cadillacs.  Have a great day"

            It's not about lowering your standards.  It's about building something safe.  You're not trying to convince them to build it out of cherry with marble columns.  Just maybe digging a few footings and upping your framing to the appropriate proportions.  Find out what would satisfy code in your area.  Maybe the existing structures are to code, but they wouldn't fly out here in MA.  Build it safe, or don't build it.

  2. DanH | Mar 28, 2004 12:21am | #2

    You also may want to check into your local building code on this. Porch roofs similar to what you describe are a big problem in windstorms (blowing away and damaging other buildings), so many local codes are cracking down on them.

  3. User avater
    dieselpig | Mar 28, 2004 12:22am | #3

    "should i copy this original design which i beleive to be poorly under built"

    Your own quote should answer your question.  This is your chance to show that community what "done right" looks like.  Make it similar to the neighbors' set up, but build yours with some structural integrity and beauty.  This way it blends in nicely with the neighborhood, but still stands out as the best on the block.

    Copying crap would mean you're building crap.  Don't build crap.

    1. calvin | Mar 28, 2004 12:34am | #4

      Don't build crap.

      Aptly put, something you should include below every post.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

      Quittin' Time

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