sMy husband and I are installing new windows in an OLD OLD house that has fiber cement siding. We encountered the following problem. The porch roof is attached to the house with no roof overhand above. The porch doesn’t have a gutter. Evidently the roof water has been pouring directly onto the old window. We want to attach a gutter to the porch, but are not sure how to do it. Also, can we use vinyl coil stock flashing to flash under the part above the window and to the left where we have removed the siding? I’m posting a couple of pictures. We would really appreciate your help.
Replies
Marlene
The "fibres" in your siding very probably are asbestos-that type of siding did for many years if not forever. One of the newer fibrecement siding manufacturers might have a complement for it that could blend in. Back to the asbestos-over the years the constant movement and rubbing of the siding against itself grinds out dust-that is captured behind and on the top of each coarse. Take great caution in just banging the siding-even moreso when you remove pcs.
At any rate-the porch if original has most likely been reshingled. And there lies the rub-if no new step flashing was installed, and what was there is deteriorated, your job just got a bit bigger.
The corner of the window flange should be waterproofed up beyond the bottom of that siding-and you must know how brittle it is and how hard to work with it. To just tuck flashing an inch or so in that corner won't be enough.
After that, you'll want to flash over that with a step flashing and the one at the bottom shingle-make it a kickout flashing-to get it away from the siding.
Gutters are fine-but you must flash properly-the gutter won't catch all the water. In a cold climate-ice dams can force water up and over and behind all your work if not done with good detail.
In addition to everything else I'd suggest you install a "kickout" on the roof at that corner, to "kick" the water out away from the side of the house as it runs down the roof. This will help to reduce the amount that spills onto the window.
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What Dan said
Kick-out flashing is an important detail that's rarely done. There are commercial versions available, but you can also bend them out of coil stock.
ibid
What Andy said...
Which is what Dan said...
Which is what Calvin said...
lol
back to what I said..........
no one else concerned with the asbestos siding?
or
the proper flashing incorporated with the kickout flashing that we all seem to agree with?
evidently not the original poster. Must be too busy or in a tizzy over my scare tactics.
Asbestos?
Nope. Not really worried about asbestos.
Kickout flashing? Now THAT needed mentioning. Man, I'm surprised no one mentioned it earlier in this thread.
The OP? Seems to be gone, But not forgotten.
Nope
Not worried about the asbestos at all. It's an excellent siding material - Lasts forever. Keep it painted so it doesn't become friable.
I used to use kick-outs, then happened to be there when the house was sided. Siders beat the kick-out flat and sided over it.
well, that's a bich
Pity all parties can't get on the same page....................afterall, there's not that many pages in the book.
Not surprising
Geez, the siders would have to notch a piece! The horror!
I think I've worked with that same crew.
As to how to hang a new gutter, the gutter will hang off of brackets, and the type of bracket depends on what you have to hang it off of. Do a search for "gutter bracket" and you'll see there are dozens of shapes and styles. Some need a full vertical facia for back support. Some just need a point connection. Some attach to the roof sheathing, underneath the first course of shingles.
You do have drip edge, so you'll want to blend the gutter with that. Overlap all surfaces so water will go where you want it to go, even if the photos and drawings show otherwise.
Two replies and no one mentioned kickout flashing?* Add that to get water away from the sidewall and to prevent water from flowing down the siding and over the window.
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*lol