Replies

1. 
   AitchKay | Mar 17, 2009 04:56am | #1

   Is this the all-metal, multiple-template set-up? These days, a lot of guys are using the plastic, one-hinge-at-a-time templates.

   I have used the metal, multi-(that usually means 3, but sometimes 4) template system for over 30 years. It's really good, but it's not perfect.

   One of my templates routs the hinge a hair deeper than the other two.

   This has not been a problem, as I use a mortise plane to even out the hinge gains, and then I usually give the blade a tap to deepen the cut, and go over both the top jamb, and top door, mortises to compensate for future sag.

   I also have the same problem that you do with not-quite-aligned mortises, door-to-jamb. I have had good luck with driving only one screw per leaf, and stopping just short of driving it tight.

   I hang the door, wiggling all of the leaves together, and only then do I drill out for, and install, the other screws. That usually does the trick.

   As long as you're planning for it in advance, it doesn't really slow things down much.

   AitchKay

1. 
   popawheelie | Mar 17, 2009 05:11am | #2

   AHH! tricks of the trade. Almost every tool has its quirks.

   Put the bottom hinge in first. Then you tweak the middle and top hinge.

   That way you don't have to bend over while you are tweaking.

   I just "tap" the hinge on the bottom or top to get it in.

   Edited 3/17/2009 12:32 am ET by popawheelie

2. 
   toolpouchguy | Mar 21, 2009 03:33pm | #3

   I have hinged many doors with my all metal porter cable hinge jig .

   never had a prob till one home owner bought thes fancy made in china lee valley  hinges .what a pain in the butt not one would line up

   havent useed it since I am still frustrated ughhh...

1. 
   AitchKay | Mar 21, 2009 04:07pm | #4

   Strange. Sometimes I think it would be a good idea to mark the leaves as to which ones started out together. I've never done it, but next time I'm faced with some special-order stuff, maybe I'll try it. And then intentionally swap a couple, to see if they no longer line up.AitchKay

1. 
   toolpouchguy | Mar 22, 2009 04:13am | #8

   the hinge were all differnt sizes

1. 
   AitchKay | Mar 22, 2009 04:49pm | #9

   So that means we have to label the leaves of each pair when we work with that special-order stuff!Sheesh! What a PITA!AitchKay

2. 
   baartman | Mar 21, 2009 04:44pm | #5

   I was definitely thinking unkind thoughts of the hinges, but I considered it akin to blaming the clubs in golf... lousy putter, I swear its bent or something...

1. 
   AitchKay | Mar 21, 2009 05:53pm | #6

   You might be able to get away with it on this one!AitchKay

2. 
   mike4244 | Mar 22, 2009 02:35am | #7

   I do everything the same as you except the way you hang the door. I rarely insert the hinge pins, instead I screw the leaves.I hung commercial doors for years and most of them have ballbearing hinges. If you pull the pins on these hinges you may knock the ball bearing knuckle off. Try my method, at first it may seem awkward but try three or four doors and I think your problem is eliminated.

   I usually set a stepped block of wood under the door slightly less than the required height.Then pop the middle hinge in and all four screws.Then I pry the bottom away from the mortice with a wood stick til the hinge pops in the mortice.A couple of screws in the bottom then pull the top hinge over with a thin punch or nailset.Pop the top hinge in and install screws.The wood scrap works as a pinch bar but leaves no dents.The nailset or punch is a drift to pull the top of the door into line.

   When you get used to it I think you will find it goes as fast as fiddling with pins on a perfectly aligned door.

   mike