FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Post hole digger – 1 or 2 man?

m2akita | Posted in Tools for Home Building on August 3, 2008 06:09am

I am looking to get a gas powered post hole digger/ auger in the near future.  Wondering whether to get a 1 man or 2 man digger.  Will be using this for mostly for fence posts and deck posts.

Would be nice to have a 2 man for the extra power, but then that would mean that I need another person to help work the machine.  Does the smaller 1 man digger have enough power?  Can one person operate a 2 man digger.

Any thoughts or experience?  I used a 2 man digger once about 8 years ago and dont remember much ( except just about crying becuase we kept hitting rock and having to hand dig).

Thanks for any info.

 

 

Live by the sword, die by the sword….choose your sword wisely.
Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. Karl | Aug 03, 2008 07:23pm | #1

    Get a bosch electric jackhammer with a clay spade and a clamshell digger.

    I have never had much luck with the gas powered augers.

    I even have a pto auger on my little kubota that I never use if I have a clay spade and a clamshell digger handy. If my three point hitch could push down I might change my view of the tractor auger.

    One root or rock and the rotary auger has trouble.

    Nothing stops an electric clay spade plus you can use it to dig ditches,etc.

    Karl

    1. m2akita | Aug 03, 2008 08:46pm | #4

      The bosch jack hammer is an interesting idea.  Im not ready to put down that type of money though ( although if I reach far enough I might be able to twist my arm).  The only other problem with the bosch is that the fence post's are going out in a farm field.  Dont think that the generators that I have would be able to handle the bosch.  Will have to look into that.

      Thanks for the idea though.Live by the sword, die by the sword....choose your sword wisely.

      1. Karl | Aug 03, 2008 09:02pm | #5

        I started out with a makita electric demo hammer that worked great til I wore it out digging out crawlspaces and parts weren't availible. I bought another makita and it was a big disappointment.IMERC recommended this one to me
        http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-11316EVS-SDS-Max-Demolition-Hammer/dp/B00004SUPW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1217786091&sr=1-2and it is AWESOME with a clay spade. Lightweight, powerful, easy to use in close quarters and any position. Read the reviews on the amazon page to get a few other testimonials.Anyone who finds regular opportunities to dig in hard packed, rocky or root filled dirt would benefit from owning one of these with a clay spade.I don't know what a gas auger costs but these are a lot more versatile.I run mine off a small generator with no difficulty.My rental yard has a cool looking one man auger that has a teeter totter of sorts. One end of the teeter totter is a gas engine and hydraulic pump. The other end has the auger so they counterbalance eachother and the length of the teeter totter keeps the auger from from spinning the machine and operator around the hole.I last looked at one five or so years ago but it was surprisingly cheap to rent.
        I thing the teeter totter also acted like a trailer tongue so you towed the entire rig behind your truck.
        I doubt the whole thing weighed more than 500 lbs.Karl

        1. m2akita | Aug 04, 2008 12:46am | #17

          I thought you where talking about the big yellow bosch demo hammer/ jack hammer.  Ive got a demo hammer ( I dont think its as big as the bosch you listed), might have to pick up a couple of those shovel bits and try it out.

           Live by the sword, die by the sword....choose your sword wisely.

      2. gordsco | Aug 04, 2008 08:04am | #28

        Farm field?

        Why not find a fencepost pounder to rent or sub the work out to  local farmer who has one?"Perfect is the enemy of Good."    Morrison

        1. Scott | Aug 04, 2008 09:44pm | #29

          Around here, where the ground is rocky, you can count on about 50% less life from posts pushed into the ground hydraulically because they tend to split when driven. Then they start rotting.Scott.Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”

    2. woodway | Aug 04, 2008 07:45am | #27

      Got the older model and never, ever regretted buying it. Great tool!

  2. Hudson Valley Carpenter | Aug 03, 2008 08:18pm | #2

    I made the mistake of buying a one man Tecumseh powered 8" auger many years ago.  Like you said, it worked fine, if rather slowly, until it hit a rock of any size.   As most of the ground in my area has a fair amount of loose flat stones in it,  the auger was pretty useless, even with two men. 

    I should've asked around, maybe going to the utility company's yard one morning when the crews were coming to work.  I later learned that they put in a lot of power poles, digging six feet into the ground by hand when they can't get the truck mounted auger into position.

    I could also have visited a local fence company, to find out what they used to dig their holes with.   Their methods would have been the same as the utility company.

    In those days, about twenty years or more years ago, both crews dug by hand with a post hole digger and a steel point...when the auger couldn't get in position.

    So, the simple answer is that unless you hire someone with a heavy duty auger, either one mounted on a truck or something similar on a tractor, you're better off digging your holes by hand.  You can use an offset post hole digger, substituting a heavy steel point/bar to losen the rocks and pry them up. 

    Or you can go at it with pick and shovel, digging larger holes than what you need so's you can get down to depth. 

    Man powered post hole diggers will rapidly wear out anyone, except a silver backed gorilla or someone who has been doing it daily for months. 

    The best method I've found is to use a 6' long steel point to loosen the hard dirt, then jamb the offset post hole digger down there, to shape the hole better and lift out the loose dirt.

    I take a folding chair with me and a jug of iced tea.   I ain't planning on breaking any speed records or building a new set of shoulder muscles either. 

    Edit: Karl's idea sounds like a winner.  I'm going to make a note of that tool for the next time I need to get a hole dug.  But I'd still keep an offset post hole digger on hand, to clean out the hole more easily.

     



    Edited 8/3/2008 1:25 pm by Hudson Valley Carpenter

    1. m2akita | Aug 03, 2008 09:16pm | #6

      Im trying to stay away from the human powered post hole diggers!!!  The one I have is getting worse and worse ( the engine needs a tune-up) :).  I just dont have it in me to hand dig all the holes that I will need.

      My thoughts where to use the gas powered digger and than switch to human power when needed.

       Live by the sword, die by the sword....choose your sword wisely.

      1. Hudson Valley Carpenter | Aug 04, 2008 12:25am | #16

        I'm trying to stay away from the human powered post hole diggers!!!

        I'd get on the horn to any and all pole barn companies and fencing companies, see if they'd be willing to bring their truck mounted auger out and dig holes for an hourly rate. 

        Could maybe fit you in between regular jobs if you ask nice.  More likely get a positive from a pole barn outfit, I'd imagine.

        There are sometimes private contractors who put in power poles with the same rig. 

        1. User avater
          intrepidcat | Aug 10, 2008 05:25am | #37

          this is supposed to be good for steel t posts:

          The automatic T-Post Driver was first developed by Dan Rohrer in response to a fence builder who was complaining about his back and wishing for a "wonder tool." In less than a month, the first Man-Saver was manufactured and sold. Since then, Dan has developed a series of drivers and expanded their capabilities with various adapters that allow them to drive almost any shaped post on the market up to 3.5" diameter.  Ideal for all your farm & ranch fencing, vineyard fencing and highway department post needs. These post driving power tools are now patented products, still manufactured and sold from the same Central Oregon location where it all started in 1997.

          Rohrer Manufacturing's post driver is an excellent, affordable alternative to bulky hydraulic or back breaking manual post drivers.  This lightweight, portable t-post driver is ideal for farm, ranch, vineyard, sign and highway fence, post, and marker installations.

          View Image"Never pick a fight with an old man. If he can't beat you he will just kill you." Steinbeck 

          1. Hudson Valley Carpenter | Aug 10, 2008 07:41am | #38

            Sounds pretty good.  How much?

          2. User avater
            intrepidcat | Aug 11, 2008 02:12am | #41

            Basic model that will drive t-posts runs about $450.

             

            google "man saver" for the website.

             

            Check out the video of it in action.

             

            I've got some fence to do on a small farm I bought last year and I am seriusly looking into one of these for the t-post pounding.

            That thing and a gas compressor would pretty much put you in the fence bidness.

             

            Edit: if you already have a tractor and get that BellTec unit to do the corners and the line posts you'd pretty much be able to do almost any fence by yourself or just with the help of your kids.

            I'm not sure I recall just what type of fence you are putting up but StayTuff has some good wire product and has a good website with some tips on fence building.

            "Never pick a fight with an old man. If he can't beat you he will just kill you." Steinbeck 

            Edited 8/10/2008 7:17 pm by intrepidcat

    2. DanH | Aug 03, 2008 09:46pm | #7

      I've never used one, but based on the experience of others a trailer-mounted auger is the way to go.
      It is an ironic habit of human beings to run faster when we have lost our way. --Rollo May

    3. MSA1 | Aug 04, 2008 09:46pm | #30

      I wouldnt be so fast in knocking those one man diggers. I was drilling with one once (the brand Lowes sells), I hit a rock and it threw me over the top of itself.

      Must've been pretty funny to see since I weigh about 2 bills. 

       

       

      Family.....They're always there when they need you.

      1. Hudson Valley Carpenter | Aug 04, 2008 10:20pm | #31

        Mine had a very low reduction gear on it.  It might've dislocated a shoulder but nothin' much more than that.

        BTW. You can buy and ice auger for it and do pretty good, lake fishin' in the dead of winter.  Contrary to rumor, some guys do actually catch some fish that way.

        1. MSA1 | Aug 04, 2008 11:16pm | #32

          I dont stand on water in August, and I dont stand on water in January.

          Seems like every week during the winter I hear a story about rescuing some guy off an ice floe. 

           

           

          Family.....They're always there when they need you.

          1. m2akita | Aug 05, 2008 03:39am | #34

            So for the immediate use ( or as immerdiate as I get to it), I'm digging the holes to put up fencing for horses.  Probably be fencing in ~ 5 acres, I dont really know.  Will know when my wife tells me.  Some of the area that the fencing will be going through is wooded so I know that a tractor may not be able to get in there.

            Do have access to a tractor with hole digger attached to the pto.  Only problem is that its an old model is somewhat hard to get a staight hole into the ground.  Also, the owner only has a 12" auger which is a little big for fence posts.  Suppose I could pony up and buy him a smaller auger or go in with him on a better digger.

            I was also thinking possible uses after putting up our fences, such as fences for a customer, or post holes for decks.  Dont think a tractor or skid steer would go over to good for that.

             

             Live by the sword, die by the sword....choose your sword wisely.

    4. User avater
      intrepidcat | Aug 10, 2008 05:20am | #36

       TM48 POST HOLE DIGGER

      View Image

      Belltec Industries TM48 Post Hole Digger mounts easily on three-point tractors with over 28 horsepower which have at least two hydraulic remote valves. Our machine's design and performance go way beyond today's tractor mounted post hole diggers.Our unique system transforms a three-point tractor into a drilling machine capable of doing what the big truck rigs do: drill accurate, straight holes (to a depth of 5 ft on a single auger) in almost any drilling condition, including solid rock and concrete.If drilling holes is a problem for you, we have the solution. Whether it be hard, dry ground, rocky soil or solid rock. We can drill it.

      "Never pick a fight with an old man. If he can't beat you he will just kill you." Steinbeck 

      1. User avater
        Jeff_Clarke | Aug 11, 2008 06:48am | #43

        I'd like to see that digger 'drills holes in solid rock' around our place - solid diabase that did this:

        View Image

        to a Bobcat hydraulic hammer

        Jeff

        1. User avater
          intrepidcat | Aug 12, 2008 02:13am | #44

          buy one, try it out and report back

          :)

           

          Well, you know how sellers make claims about their products....

           

           "Never pick a fight with an old man. If he can't beat you he will just kill you." Steinbeck 

  3. User avater
    deadmanmike | Aug 03, 2008 08:43pm | #3

    I'll take a power auger over hand digging any day, but rocks and roots can make them almost as hard to use as hand digging. Of course, with no rocks and roots, life's good! Faster and easier than hand digging.

    If I got to the point where I needed one all the time, I would think seriously about a hydraulic attachment for a bobcat, etc. Or a dedicated self contained post-hole digger. 

    If you're set on buying a 1 or 2 man, just go for the 2 man and just make sure you have help. The 1 man units will beat the hell out of you in a hurry.

     

  4. User avater
    jagwah | Aug 03, 2008 10:08pm | #8

    http://www.littlebeaver.com/prod_mechanical.php

     

  5. User avater
    PeterJ | Aug 03, 2008 10:33pm | #9

    Was on a job where they were installing fence and deck, had a tow behind one man deal like this.

    http://www.toolfetch.com/Category--Grounds_Maintenance--Augers--Earth_Augers--DIRTDAWG-9HON.shtml

    Took a couple of hours to dig everything after marking, I was impressed! Made it look easy since this was turf, don't know how it would work in rocky soil or rough terrain.

    I've seen 'em at the rental yards, think they were yellow so probably another brand.

     

    Everything will be okay in the end.  If it's not okay, it's not the end. 

  6. Piffin | Aug 03, 2008 10:54pm | #10

    As far as I'm concerned, those are worthless unless mounted on a tractor with PTO. I have used two like that, a two man one , and a couple one man ones.

    Unless you have clean sand - no clay no rocks, no roots, anything with out the tractor for leverage and ballast will hurt somebody and needs three men at least.
    That way you have one person to stay with the injured body while the third one goes for help.

    ;)

    I would rather dig by hand than use one of them again.

     

     

    Welcome to the
    Taunton University of
    Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
     where ...
    Excellence is its own reward!

    1. TJK | Aug 03, 2008 11:28pm | #11

      "As far as I'm concerned, those are worthless unless mounted on a tractor with PTO. I have used two like that, a two man one , and a couple one man ones."Amen to that. Some years ago I rented a one-man and found that it can easily spin 220 pounds and fling it several feet (after I hit a big root). I now prefer the hydraulic-powered augers that hook up to crawlers and bobcats. They cost more to rent but they do the work 10X faster than a hand-held and there is much less hazard to the operator.

      1. Piffin | Aug 03, 2008 11:33pm | #12

        We had one on a Ford tractor that screwed itself in between a couple rocks and stood the tractor on it's hind end! Spent a half day digging it out 

         

        Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

        1. TJK | Aug 03, 2008 11:39pm | #13

          "We had one on a Ford tractor that screwed itself in between a couple rocks and stood the tractor on it's hind end! Spent a half day digging it out"Well, for some places dynamite may still be the best choice! I've had auger bits get stuck but was always able to reverse out with a little nudging from the power lift.

          1. Piffin | Aug 03, 2008 11:59pm | #14

            Yeah, one out of four holes would need some tweaking and reversing. Coomon enough that I only commented on the one we got stuch bad. It was funny seeing that tractor stand up on it's hind legs like a stallion dancing 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

    2. Scott | Aug 04, 2008 06:28am | #25

      >>>That way you have one person to stay with the injured body while the third one goes for help.Hmmmm... Ya think that might be why my wife still gloats to friends how I made her run a two-man auger while she was 7 months pregnant? (On a hill, in the hot sun, with rocky ground) I've always wondered.......but we're still married. I'll pass on your thoughts... I'm sure she'll enjoy the extra ammo.Thanks (sort of),Scott.Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”

  7. Dan612 | Aug 04, 2008 12:07am | #15

    Get the two man auger.  Then find your buddy who is going to help you.  Practice first by grabbing a helicopter by the rotors.  Or, go for the one man and practice by grabbing a wolf by the ears. 

    I have used a two man one in the past and when they hit rocks they can take you for a ride.  They do supposedly have a clutch to keep you from getting banged up, b ut then again, my sawzall has a clutch built in.  Has anybody ever had the clutch help you when the saw gets bound?  Usually it binds and then shakes me until I have forgotten who I am.

    1. m2akita | Aug 04, 2008 12:54am | #18

      Must have gotten lucky with the two man that we used, as the clutch seemed to work most the time.  Of course I was kinda lucky as my friend that was helping me was probably about 280 lbs, he probably absorbed a lot of the shock from the auger ( thinking back, I was probably just there for entertainment value).

       Live by the sword, die by the sword....choose your sword wisely.

    2. Piffin | Aug 04, 2008 01:39am | #20

      LMAO! Great description. 

       

      Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

  8. Sasquatch | Aug 04, 2008 01:22am | #19

    That 9 HP Dirtdawg would be the way to go, if you can justify the price.  I have seen another version of that in a tool store, but do not do enough digging to pay out $3K.

    I have used a one-man Tecumseh since 97.  The first problem is getting it started.  The second is not breaking your arm when it hits a rock.  If you keep the auger sharp, it can work itself through roots until you hit a big one.  Then you can always go to hand digging.

    Mostly, I use the one-man and finish up with a post hole digger.  I have dug waaaaay too many holes with a post hole digger.  When I was framing, I loved to build decks, but I hated digging those holes.  We would usually dig the holes first thing in the morning before it got too hot and then the rest of the day was great.

    Unfortunately, I have to dig about three holes this week.  I don't even feel like digging one.

    I think I would go for a two-man next time.  In good soil, I figure I could handle that.  In poor soil with lots of clay, water, rocks, roots etc., I could always find someone willing to work for a few hours to help with the two-man.

    1. bobbys | Aug 04, 2008 01:43am | #21

      theres more rocks then dirt here, the town is on a old riverbed, by the time one goes down 3 feet the with of the hole is 8 feet wide

      1. Sasquatch | Aug 04, 2008 01:54am | #22

        They're selling a Bosch demolition hammer for about $1K at HD here.  I'd like to have one for doing my driveway in a couple of years.  I think it would be the right tool to cut through those rocks.

  9. alwaysoverbudget | Aug 04, 2008 02:11am | #23

    if your out in a field ,how many holes you digging? if more than 10 i would go rent a bobcat and auger for 4 hours. if you have it on site for 3  you can punch 40-100 holes and never break a sweat. cost around here is about 125 for 4 hours. larry

    if a man speaks in the forest,and there's not a woman to hear him,is he still wrong?

    1. m2akita | Aug 05, 2008 03:47am | #35

      if your out in a field ,how many holes you digging?

      I dont know.  My wife will tell me.  I think I may be better hiring this out  :=)

       

       Live by the sword, die by the sword....choose your sword wisely.

  10. Biff_Loman | Aug 04, 2008 05:07am | #24

    I live in vineyard country: lots and lots and lots of posts. Tool of choice for all the local farmers is skidsteer + auger, which is far better than a rear-mount auger for a tractor. The skidsteer can exert down-force and the bit is in front of you.

    Everyone also has gnarly points on their bits which actually do work for breaking up rocks. Dad's bit worked great for several hundred holes, many of which had rocks.

    I've seen the same sort of unit mounted on a mini-excavator, which might be narrower if access is an issue.

    Really: how many holes are we talking about? 'Cause I think my preference would be to rent a real machine as opposed to dinking around with some of those other gadgets, although they do seem pretty clever.



    Edited 8/3/2008 10:09 pm ET by Biff_Loman

  11. dude | Aug 04, 2008 07:41am | #26

    l live in a area that has a lot of stone in the ground

    over the years i have dug a lot of post holes using one man , 2 man & every other type of post hole auger & nothing works as good as my backhoe & a 16" bucket

    i had the bucket reinforced by a welder after i broke nearly all the teeth out of it

    i have dug mant a hole since and never broke a tooth

    i dig the hole first then have a helper position the post  plub and in line after which i start back filling  using the bucket and tamping fill using bucket

    had a client reciently tell me i could do 10 holes in the time they did one using a gas post hole digger and hitting rocks ( here theyre called ground apples )

  12. markmoro | Aug 05, 2008 03:39am | #33

    Home Depot in my area has a ride on Toro post hole digger on a trailer with various bits & extensions for $150.00 a day. My Little Beaver has sat in the garage ever since I saw this workhorse. Clay & rocks don't seem to bother this machine. Plus it is compact enough to bet close to a house. I use it for deck holes 12" in diameter and 42" deep. My 1-man digger takes a lot of maintenance to keep it working efficiently.

  13. User avater
    IMERC | Aug 10, 2008 08:07am | #39

    M180

    DESCRIPTION: The M180 Cratering Demolition Kit is a one-step, two-stage, surface-emplaced, 110-pound kit consisting of a standard 15-pound shaped charge, a firing device and a rocket-propelled 40-pound cratering charge. These components are mounted on one leg of a tripod assembly. When the kit is fired, the rocket on its downward acceleration strikes the firing device, which initiates the shaped charge through the demolition circuit. The shaped charge creates a hole in the ground to a depth of 6-9 feet. The accelerating rocket "follows through" the shaped charge back blast to the bottom of the hole, and penetrates further into the soil to an optimum charge burial depth. A time delay fuse detonates the cratering charge and produces a 12-22 foot diameter crater.

    STATUS: The M180 is being procured and fielded. A safety modification (protective cover) was installed on the firing device. A Materiel Change (MC) of the rocket motor, due to radio frequency susceptibility, has been approved and is scheduled to be retrofitted on all M180s once the MC is funded.

    EMPLOYMENT CONCEPT: The M180 is employed by Combat Engineers and other units in the main battle and covering force areas in obstacle operations. The M180 is employed in 3- and 5-kit groupings for cratering 10 and 30-foot wide roads. When employed, the specified group of items is surface emplaced (without prior site preparation) in the specified pattern, then inter-connected and fired simultaneously.

    BASIS OF ISSUE: The M180 is a Class V item of issue.

    TRAINING/PERSONNEL: The U.S. Army Engineer Center at Fort Leonard Wood familiarizes active and reserve Combat Engineers in the employment of the M180. The Engineer School provides familiarization to officers and noncommissioned officers during their basic and advanced courses on employment of the system. Training at the unit level is supported by extension training materials. Unit proficiency is evaluated annually through the Army Training and Evaluation Program.

     

    Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

    WOW!!! What a Ride!
    Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

    1. User avater
      Jeff_Clarke | Aug 11, 2008 06:33am | #42

      "A time delay fuse detonates the cratering charge and produces a 12-22 foot diameter crater. "

      ... < looking on bag of fast-set concrete to calculate how many bags .... >Jeff

  14. wood4rd | Aug 10, 2008 05:51pm | #40

    If you have any rocks, forget the 2 man post hole digger. We rented one the other day and had to pull it out every couple inches to dig out the rocks.

      Even the small 3" rocks were a problem. We usually just use the digging bars and pull out the dirt with the hand diggers.

      It took us over 4 hours to dig 3- 12" x 42" holes for a deck. We had to bell-out the holes on the bottom... 14" on the outside, 19" on the center one.. so that added more time.

      I dont think we really saved any time at all with the power digger, and it wasnt any easier, lifting the digger out all the time. Plus the $70 for the 3 hr rental.
          
        

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

A New Approach to Foundations

Discover a concrete-free foundation option that doesn't require any digging.

Featured Video

SawStop's Portable Tablesaw is Bigger and Better Than Before

The 10-in. Jobsite Saw PRO has a wider table, a new dust-control port, and a more versatile fence, along with the same reliable safety mechanism included in all SawStop tablesaws.

Related Stories

  • From Victorian to Mid-Century Modern: How Unico Fits Any Older Home
  • Designing the Perfect Garden Gate
  • Vintage Sash Windows Get an Energy-Efficient Upgrade
  • Design and Build a Pergola

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data