i have 2 beams, 2×12, doubled up with 1/2″ plywood in the center for a total of 3 1/2″ thick. the beams (each 10′ long) run continuous. the total span is 20′ and there is a post in the middle that i need to replace (first floor of a house under the second floor, post lands directly over the main carrying beam in the basement).
it is my intention to use a 4″ steel post with square flanges/plates on either end with the “threads” that adjust to the exact height. standard big box item.
couple of questions.
1) do i need to fabricate or have fabricated a “cradle” or “u” of steel to carry the beams that’s welded to the top plate of the post? rather that just bolt into the beams through the plates?
2) do i need to do anything to cross the joint of the beams? the cradle would do that, but i’m trying to avoid steel fabrication.
3) what do i do to permanently fix the threads to the correct height?
any other ideas? the previous post was 4 2×4’s out of plumb that i exposed when changing out the trim in this room.
thanks for your help
Replies
Simpson (http://www.simpson.com) strong tie should have a connector/bracket that you can use in your application.
Renaissance Restorations LLC
Victorian Home Restoration Services
http://www.renaissancerestorations.com
that's an investment co.?what's the name?thank you for the help
The website is http://www.strongtie.com
thanks,these are all wood-wood or wood-concrete, i guess i'm looking for steel to wood
Correction, try http://www.strongtie.comRenaissance Restorations LLCVictorian Home Restoration Serviceshttp://www.renaissancerestorations.com
Any idea why the four 2x4s are out of plumb? Bad installation, or is something going seriously wrong structurally? Because sounds like normal construction to me - steel jackpost isn't typical on a main floor.
Also, where are you located (approximately)?
Regards,
Tim Ruttan
i don't think anythings wrong structurally, no cracks in ceiling, no deflection on the exposed ceiling joists....i think it was just done poorly.what's typical in this situation with wood...how much? what size?
I don't know your house...don't know what building code you're under. So my comment on "what's typical" is virtually worthless.
And there's a ton of questions: How old is the house? (because I trust newer construction over old construction) Are you in an area where a building code even applies? (because I would trust a house built by building code more than a house built in an unregulated area) Who built the house? (because I would trust a large builder who builds 20 houses of that same model rather than a one-time builder) Has the house been modified/renovated? (because some jacka$$ might have screwed the pooch on a renovation he didn't pull a building permit on)
HOWEVER... it doesn't sound like unreasonable construction from the extremely scant information I have.
I'd probably get a big convincer (sledge hammer) and bang the existing four posts plumb. I might sister on two more 2x4s with 16-penny (3.5") nails so that there are six studs holding up the beam. And I would (if I was nervous) add some Simpson strong-tie mending plates or corner brackets (available at your local lumber store or building center) to connect studs & beam to keep everything extra kosher.
Beams don't neccessarily have to be spliced, but if you're worried about that, again you can just add a Simpson mending plate.
Now that that's good, I'm also available for health and legal consultations over the internet.
Just joking - welcome to Breaktime!
Regards,
Tim Ruttan
Edited 2/21/2006 9:52 am ET by TrimButcher
thanks ummmm "trim",i tend to overkill everything i can......i figure if i'm going to fix it, i'll just spend the $50 on the steel. do you see any problem with doing that? i even fastened hurricane ties from the joists to the beams (see overkill).built in the '50's...solid as a rock as are all the other (200) homes in the area (nj) the old lumber sure is tough. old estate. no "co" necessary at purchase but building codes apply.thanksps. i've got this pain......and it might be a legal thing?
I've never seen a saddle used except in commercial applications where you were dealing with loads over 10,000#.
The screws turning on post jacks has never been a problem to my knowledge. If you're worried about it, you could put a jam nut on the threads, or tack weld them after they're adjusted.
so if i lag bolt it and put a "mending strap" on either side of the beam/s......i'm done?sorry for my ignorance....don't do this for a living.
You can simply lag-screw the top plate of the column to the beams. The beams can be spliced together using mending plates or even plywood on both sides.
"(first floor of a house under the second floor, post lands directly over the main carrying beam in the basement)."
You don't mention if there is a post on a footing, under the main carrying beam in the basement directly below the post you are replacing- continuous load paths and all that.
The awful thing is that beauty is mysterious as well as terrible. God and the devil are fighting there, and the battlefield is the heart of man.
- Fyodor Dostoyevski
there is a post/s under the main beam in the basement, though it is offset from the location of my post by about 3-4'