*
This is an upcomming project on my own house. I’m planning a deck(for the eventual hot-tub). The deck to be will be on a ledger attached to the wall, and on posts that will come out of the kitchen bump out roof. The roof is now shingled with 3 tab and will be reroofed at the same time. I’m thinking maybe standing seam metal, any ideas on a long term roofs will help. The fact it’ll be under a deck makes me want something that will last at least as long as the deck! Maybe just dimensional shingles, metal sounds like it’ll last longer though. No idea how to do a metal roof, time to read alittle and get a few bids. The only weak link would be the posts commimg up from the room belows corners. I was thinking chamfering the square posts into octagons and using boots, or cut kerfs into the posts and folding a lipped flashing into the kerfs. The roof is only about a 3/12.If this makes sense, any ideas? I don’t feel real secure using anything but boots, but square skylights flash fine! I’m thinking the post might just hit the center of one or two shingle tabs and not be stepped enough to let the whole over lap thing do it’s job. How ’bout a big goop ‘o tar….that’ll hold ‘er! Jeff.
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
From work boots to power tools, these favorite picks make perfect gifts for moms and women who build.
Featured Video
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Fine Homebuilding Magazine
Fine Home Building
Follow
-
Fine Homebuilding
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial Now -
GBA Prime
Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
- Home Group
- Antique Trader
- Arts & Crafts Homes
- Bank Note Reporter
- Cabin Life
- Cuisine at Home
- Fine Gardening
- Fine Woodworking
- Green Building Advisor
- Garden Gate
- Horticulture
- Keep Craft Alive
- Log Home Living
- Military Trader/Vehicles
- Numismatic News
- Numismaster
- Old Cars Weekly
- Old House Journal
- Period Homes
- Popular Woodworking
- Script
- ShopNotes
- Sports Collectors Digest
- Threads
- Timber Home Living
- Traditional Building
- Woodsmith
- World Coin News
- Writer's Digest
Replies
*
Jeff,
Will the new deck cover the roof completly or will it be seen from the ground? The reason I ask is,an EDPM membrane might be the way to go.Most companys have whole books on flashing details for every area of the roof.
Vince
*You might take a trip over to the outterbanks and climb up on one of their roofs. With all the roof-top decks they have to see the water over their neighbors, they probably have a myriad of ideas and systems. First time I saw them, I couldn't believe it. How'd they did that?It'd be a working vacation afterall.
*jeff...don't use boots.. cut a kerf and fold some nice copper flashings.. ((flash and counterflash)))the EPDM will work fine too, uncured rubber with seam caulk will last about twenty years...there are all kinds of clever ways of doing this...but i'd stay away from boots...b but hey, whadda i no?
*If there is little or no eave, one idea is to bolt the railing posts to the facia board of the kitchen roof and hang a ledger on them to accept the outside edge of the deck. This eliminates any holes in the roof but, of course, creates different problems. It depends on if you want to retrofit the roof well enough to create a load bearing facia. Just a thought.
*Jeff,If you go with metal, you will have to install the roof first, with all provisions for supporting the deck in mind. You can't really do metal around deck posts unless they just happen to all fall on seams. I think 3/12 is the bare minimum for metal roofing. Another thing to consider is the heat coming off the metal roof on those hot Pittsburgh days, kind of cook you up like a big pierogie!MD
*Jeff, Put the metal panels, SM or PBR on first with provisions for point to point load transfer. The post could just sit on roof. Use galvalume panels and screws and the roof will outlive you. Materials will cost about $100 sq. for best grade and installation will be quick and easy.KK
*It will not be seen anywhere except thru the deck boards, and if anyone complains they'll have to get the hell out of the hot tub! Never even thought of EDPM, just may be the way to go. Roof's small enough to maybe get away without a seam, just a coupla holes. Jeff
*Thought about the heat too. It's the sunny side of our shaded(or is that shady) home, and the shingles are cooked pretty much done. Gotta vent/insulate the bumpout too, the kitchen is unbearable in the summer.Jeff
*Jeff: Setting a post directly on the metal roofing will trap moisture & cause the roofing to rust. You might consider using pipe columns in lieu of wood. You can flash the pipe with a dektite flashing. Properly installed it will not leak and it will last for many many years. Just a thought. Ron.
*Had a similar problem when a bone-head engineer insisted on putting 4x4 fence posts inside a parapet wall for a deck. I kerfed the 4x4's in about 1/2" square to each face then another kerf coming up at a 45 degree angle to meet the first kerf. Had sheet metal sleeves made with a top flange bent in 45 degrees. Filled the kerfs flush with SIKA 1A.In your case, you'll need a pair of sleeves to fit over each other: one for the bottom and two sides and another for the top and two sides. Have flanges at least 6" all the way around to fit onto the roof deck. You may want to consider putting a 24" square piece of glass base sheet under each sleeve and burning down a piece of modified bitumen onto the base sheet and PRIMED sheet metal. Roofing felt and three-tab shingles could then be installed normally.Good luck.