Replies

1. 
   ovolo | Apr 08, 2009 01:31am | #1

   bump

   http://www.thesmallbuildingcompany.com
1. 
   Timuhler | Apr 08, 2009 02:09am | #3

   I have the Milwaukee 14" Big Boy and a Bosch 14" Big Boy from Big Foot tools.  The Milwaukee needs some repair done to free the guard.

   They are both good saws, but I worry that they'll die if used too much.  I use an 8ga cord when possible direct from the temp pole. 

   The Bosch cut really well last year when I used it to cut 10x10 FOHC Doug Fir and came out really square.  I cut first with a 7 1/4" saw, then the Big Boy.  I try to have a cut already made square to help guide the saw.  You want the "slip foot" for it too.

   I have not used the Makita 16" saw, but have read good things over at the Timber Framers Guild http://www.tfguild.com

   That's about all I got to offer.

    

   By the way, how do you like the Zip Wall?

    

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   From Bernieshttp://www.pioneerbuildersonline.com

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   From Lot 30 Muirkirk

   http://picasaweb.google.com/TimothyUhler                                     

2. 
   Hiker | Apr 08, 2009 02:04am | #2

   I have Prazi, a 10" big Foot and the 16" Makita and the base plate adapter from big foot for my chain saw.  I have not used the 14" big foot. 

   The Prazi is a piece of junk-never used

   The 10 " BF is great

   The 16" makita is good-just have to saw perfectly straight or the blade binds reall easy

   THe base plate adapter make the chain saw a great tool as well

   Bruce

1. 
   basswood | Apr 08, 2009 05:39am | #7

   I made a cutting jig for my Makita 16" beam saw. Really helps to eliminate binding:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzecgPNpsOE

1. 
   Hiker | Apr 14, 2009 03:51am | #9

   Thanks for the video.  I noticed that you pulled a shim out from the outside block from the non-cutting side of the jig.  What do you use to keep the cutting side tight? Was there on shim on this side as well?

   Bruce

1. 
   basswood | Apr 14, 2009 05:40am | #10

   The 6x varied in thickness so I made the jig fit the thickest 6x without shims and for all the smaller stock I used shims to take up the slop (and I did use shims in pairs).

1. 
   Hiker | Apr 14, 2009 06:21pm | #12

   Thanks

3. 
   EricPaulson | Apr 08, 2009 04:12am | #4

   Arthur,

   There was a 14" (I think) Makita for sale on CL in this area not too long ago. I almost grabbed it.

   I'd loan it to you if I had one.

   Good to see you at JLC. Maybe one of these years we can spend some time together.

    

1. 
   natedaw | Apr 08, 2009 04:20am | #5

   I just picked up a Makita 16" beam saw. Put a carbide tipped blade on it and it cuts like butter. I had a bunch of 12x12 hemlock beams to cut up and it went through them like butter.As others have mentioned the Prazi isn't all it's cracked up to be.

1. 
   ovolo | Apr 08, 2009 05:35am | #6

   Thanks for the responses. They are all helpful. I did see that 16" on CL for sale, he is still selling it and I might just do that. . The prazi, as sexy as it seems, biggest problem seems to be that its not a finish cut. Sounds like it turns your skill saw into a chainsaw with a baseplate. I like that I can get into full corner and then maybe just hit it all once with a belt sander. At this point, I'm leaning towards the 16" Makita. zip wall is fine, but I'm still not sold on all its advantages. We have only used it once. (in the time it takes to put the superman tape on, I can tyvek anyway.)Thanks again.arthur
   http://www.thesmallbuildingcompany.com

4. 
   grahammay | Apr 08, 2009 05:49am | #8

   Timberframed for a year with the Makita, Prazi didn't work. Use a shooting board or guide to help insure saw doesn't bind. Good luck

5. 
   frenchy | Apr 14, 2009 11:00am | #11

   I did all my timberframing with the 16 inch Mikita  ( Since it's a double timberframe  that's a lot of cutting) 

    Some really massive cuts including length wise full depth rips on 20 foot long timbers.  With a moderate amount of experiance you can hear/feel  any load up if you bind the saw and that helps you to make lazor straight cuts.   I don't know what it's like to cut soft woods, since all of mine were hard woods however I will tell you the differance between a dull and a sharp blade is massive.   (plus it's not expensive to resharpen)  however do buy the carbide blade.  I could get several weeks out of a carbide blade resharpening whereas the standard blade that came with it was dull in less than a week. 

6. 
   DAC747 | Apr 16, 2009 02:52am | #13

   As another former Timber Framer [ that's a young mans job] I believe the most important aspect in using the 16" Makita and / or the Ryobi copy is making sure the foot is square to the blade. There are adjusters at the front and rear of the foot, use a speed square and check for square at both ends of the foot. If one end is out of square it will bind on you every time. A squared foot and a sharp carbide blade and those 16" saws will chug along nicely. Don't try to cut fast as they don't have the power to cut fast, slow and steady. I have both saws if you are interested in either PM me. 250 for the Ryobi, 400 for the Makita. I don't need both anymore.

    

   The Ryobi is a twin to the Makita [as in exact copy] just not quite as much power.

   Dave

1. 
   ovolo | Apr 16, 2009 03:20am | #14

   Thanks DaveIf you had responded a couple days earlier, I might have taken you up on the saws. Thanks to all for the help. As usual more then the answer I was expecting. All great help.. . complete with the video clips.cheers
   arthurhttp://www.thesmallbuildingcompany.com