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pre primed cedar clapboards

jimk | Posted in Construction Techniques on June 21, 2009 12:50pm

Hey everyone. I’ll be installing about 250 sqft of fj pre primed clapboards,west. red cedar.  6″ x 1/2″ .I believe the brand name is Fenway , got it from HD. 

 

Is the primer applied at the mill sufficient or is it worth my time to apply a coat of my own?

 

Also, how will the finger joints hold up over time? I’ve installed fj crown before and had some of the  finger joints open up .

 

Thanks.

 

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  1. maverick | Jun 21, 2009 01:48am | #1

    the factory primer is fine, although some painters will argue the point. I believe that has to do more with job security than anything. I always keep a small bucket of primer on site to dress up the cut ends

    and the finger joints will hold up fine as long as you keep up with regular maintenance

    1. rez | Jun 21, 2009 10:28am | #4

      I always wonder about factory primers as one never knows the amount of time that has passed since the primer was sprayed

      and many primers have a listed recommended time span within which the topcoat is to be applied. 

  2. MVAgusta | Jun 21, 2009 01:55am | #2

    I've never had good luck with the factory priming, it's fine for the back, but not really thick enough to block the tannin bleed on the front. We do get a lot of rain though.

    1. jimk | Jun 21, 2009 04:41am | #3

      Thanks for the replies. I was curious if anyone had problems with the factory coat. I guess I'm getting to the point where I question the quality of practally everything these days .

       

      The clapboards are actually a repair thats being weaved in with the existing ones. Everthing's going to get another coat of primer and two coats of paint anyway, I was just concerned about the backside.   Thanks. 

      1. tcs | Jun 21, 2009 04:52pm | #6

        That said wouldn't worry so much about the back side as the end cuts - would either keep the primer & brush/roller handy. Have also had good luck with a product called "End Cuts" -  basically primer in one of the shoe polish containers with the foam bush on the end. Foam gets a bit beat up but its fits in mu belt and is always w/in reach.

        1. User avater
          Jeff_Clarke | Jun 21, 2009 04:58pm | #7

          With cedar claps, extractive bleeding right through the face is the primary issue.

          Jeff

  3. User avater
    Jeff_Clarke | Jun 21, 2009 03:07pm | #5

    Depends on what the primer is.   Hopefully Cabot Problem-Solver Oil or similar ... not latex.

    To be safe I would re-prime the exterior 1 coat (with the product above).

    Jeff

  4. Piffin | Jun 21, 2009 11:48pm | #8

    Normally primer is good for 30-90 days depending on exposure, etc. I rub my palm on it and if it comes away with some chalking color on my palm, it needs light sanding and another primer coat.

    FJ sometimes can telegraph through as the material absorbs m,oisture. More paint coats helps prevent that.

    Cedar tanins can bleed thru, and again, More paint coats helps prevent that.

     

     

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    1. jimk | Jun 22, 2009 02:37am | #9

      Thanks everyone. I'm going to be hitting all the end cuts and will be going over everything with another coat of primer on the face , It's a repair that I'm weaving back in with the rest of the wall ,so I figure going over the old and new will help keep everything looking uniform. Just wasn't sure about the factory primer and didn't want to start off on the wrong foot.

       

      I think I saw the "end cuts" somewhere, seems like a good idea.

       

      I'll spare eveyone the Sherwin-Williams vs. Ben. Moore debate, Ive heard they're both good.

       

      Thanks again.

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