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precast concrete panels for exterior

user-109377 | Posted in Construction Techniques on February 14, 2006 05:17am

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is the first letter to breaktime.  I’ve been a self employed remodeler, rehabber, builder and now architect.  I went back to architecture school in ’96 at the age of 46.   Now finally I will design and build new homes.  The following question applies to a home my wife and I will “retire” to. 

I would like to fabricate and hang pre-cast concrete panels 36″x36″x2.25″ vertically on the exterior of a new home in Cincinnati Ohio similar to the ones described in the November 2005 article by Buddy Rhodes.  Since this is an exterior application does anyone have suggestions about the method of attachment and reinforcement for each panel?  I would like to use four bolts recessed into conical holes which would also add visual interest and modlar proportioning to each panel.

ankle joint 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Replies

  1. Hackinatit | Feb 14, 2006 06:14pm | #1

    http://www.superiorwalls.com/

    Troy Sprout

    Square, Level & Plumb Renovations

  2. User avater
    draftguy | Feb 14, 2006 08:25pm | #2

    Am not familiar with the article you mentioned, so please excuse any ridiculous questions on my part.

    Are you making these panels yourself? Obviously don't know your design, but it sounds like a masochistic exercise. Am assuming that there'd have to be corner panels, special panels at door/window locations, flashing/drip issues, connection problems, etc.. And I'm thinking that bolting the panels to the sheathing won't work. They'll pull out. Maybe bolting through the sheathing into the studs, but then the studs would have to be spaced perfectly. Maybe running another layer of studs perpendicular to the framing would do it, but it's that much more lumber to deal with. And then there's the weight issue of hanging concrete to your walls (eccentric loading), which might require additional structure to keep the walls from pulling out.

    Stone panels are usually hung as curtain walls from clips mounted on the backside. They fasten together to keep water out, and the buildings that employ them use a lot of steel. Not exactly the typical residential building.

    If it's just the 'look' you're going after, could you use tilt-up or precast wall panels? Scored with the pattern you want? Depending on the situation, they could also be structural and bear on the foundation instead of the wall.

    Just my gut reaction. (btw: UC grad? DAAP grad here, '91)

    1. user-109377 | Feb 14, 2006 11:17pm | #5

      Yes UC grad.  DAAP '02 at 55.  Will have to consult with the structural engineer.  Now consider the bearing at foundation on a ledge.  The attachment to framing structure would then be as brick veneer.  Will also reduce the thickness to 1-1/8" and cast in a brick tie possibly.  Thanks, ankle joint

  3. BobKovacs | Feb 14, 2006 08:50pm | #3

    My first concern would be weight.  At 2.25" thick, your panels will probably weigh 15-20#/SF of surface.  That's a lot of dead load to secure to the wall framing behind. Personally, I'd rather see them set on relieving angles (letting gravity do it's work) and use anchors back to the framing just to keep alignment (think brick veneer cavity wall).  You could then use the bolts just as a decorative accent.

    If you go with the bolts to hold the panels in place, you'll need to reinforce the structure to take the load of the panels, and you'll also have a nightmare of a waterproofing detail at each bolt penetration.

    Bob

    1. user-109377 | Feb 14, 2006 11:05pm | #4

      Will consider a thinner panel 1-1/8" .  Do you think they could be set in mortar without bearing on a foundation ledge? At the proper time I will consult with the structural engineer.  This is preliminary design conceptualization.  Will go to local supplier to begin making samples for color and reinforcing. ankle joint

      1. BobKovacs | Feb 14, 2006 11:54pm | #6

        I'm thinking you'll always want to have a ledge to rest on if you can- it just takes a lot of the stress away from the framing. 

        Bob

        1. brownbagg | Feb 15, 2006 01:42am | #7

          Just do a precast wall section. why have framing. Its done in the commerical side everyday.. 2+3=7

          1. user-109377 | Feb 15, 2006 02:50pm | #9

            the profile at the top is curved and the panels do not extend to the top of the wall.  This creates a contrast in materials and color.  I'm heading in the direction of the concrete panel as tile

        2. user-109377 | Feb 15, 2006 02:42pm | #8

          now I wonder if the 1-1/2" thickness will be sufficient

  4. User avater
    CloudHidden | Feb 15, 2006 04:34pm | #10

    You could probably save yourself a bunch of work by going this way: http://www.international-precast.com/products/architecturalProducts.asp

    Plus, they'd do the engineering.

    1. user-109377 | Feb 15, 2006 06:26pm | #11

      Thanks for the info

    2. timby | Feb 15, 2006 06:35pm | #12

      CloudI'm surprised that you didn't mention the "Vertical Wall Alternative" at Monolithic Domes. This would allow the home builder to build in straight wall sections.Just a thought....

      1. User avater
        CloudHidden | Feb 15, 2006 06:46pm | #13

        All in due time. Since this will be a first-time use in conjunction with a domed roof, I'd rather handle the publicity smart-ly, i.e., after it's under construction. That way my client gets notice and I get credit. If it's brought up now, that effect will be diluted, plus we haven't worked out all the details. Gotta be judicious, and look out for the growth and reputation of my business.

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