Are steel studs sufficient for a rough opening for a prehung door? They seem a tad flimsy to me for handling slammed doors and such. Should I just go ahead and frame out the rough openings in wood studs?
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Replies
We often 'fill' the steel jamb studs with some real wood - better to hold the hinge screws.
Let's not confuse the issue with facts!
darrel,
Common practice: Make your metal stud opening 3'' wider and an 1-1/2'' taller than the rough for your door. Point the open channel of the stud / track away from the opening. Run screws into a 2x4 from inside that channel-lining the sides and head of the opening. Now you've got a wood subjamb to anchor your door jamb to in the conventional manner. Gives you good nailing surface for your casing too.
edit: run the bottom track long to accomodate your wood liner-stiffens the opening a bit more.
A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Edited 12/5/2007 6:13 pm ET by calvin
calvin/gd:Good tips! Thanks.
edit: run the bottom track long to accomodate your wood liner-stiffens the opening a bit more.
no fair ... I was all set to add that!
U described exactly how I do it.
too many people complain about using steel w/o finding these easy ways to make it fly ... I use as much steel as I can ... usually only in basements and bulkheads .... but always look for other places steel will work.
in basements ... I like to run PT bottom plates ... then set the steel on top.
keeps the steel off the concrete and adds base nailing.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
PT bottom plates, huh? You use stainless steel studs, then?(I am thinking that's a joke, but I actually am sort of curious about the effects of certain types of treated wood on various metals)
Edited 12/6/2007 8:59 pm ET by jesse
An appropriate question with ACQ. I suppose you could go to the trouble of laying down some vicor tape on top of the plate.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
check with your yard for borax treated in place of ACQ
Lets keep the Pittsburg steel industry going! I use steel on all floors. I use the wood scraps for blocking at 84 inches in kitchens, closets etc.
Have a good day
Cliffy
I have a steel framing book and have dreams of making that steel stringer someday!
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Exactly what Calvin said, plus make sure that the studs are kiln dried and not econo studs. I had a few econos twist after a heating season, had to tune up the door hanging later, lucky it was my own house.
Have a good day
Cliffy
Edited 12/6/2007 9:58 pm ET by cliffy
NO kidding on the 'econo studs'. I picked up 'kiln dried' but they seemed a tad heavy...so I'm suspect. We'll see what happens come spring.Anyways, I decided to do pretty much as suggested, though in reverse. Ran top and bottom steal tracks, then framed the rough opening in wood, attaching the steel studs outside that. Seems to work fine.