Replies

1. 
   andybuildz | May 16, 2004 03:16pm | #1

   Sounds like a good idea.

   I've never done it that way before but I may just give it a shot being that I have two more to install.

   BE hung ; )

            andy

   My life is my passion!

   http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM

2. 
   DanH | May 16, 2004 04:08pm | #2

   It's not the normal way, but would make sense in cases where you may have to do a lot of fudging -- installing and removing the frame several times. Note, however, that you might be advised to add a temporary bottom brace while doing this.

   Of course, you need to be sure to install the door before setting the top and latch sides, since they need to be square to the door.

   Also, in one case (or my three exterior doors) it was necessary to install the door out of plumb because the bottom of the opening wasn't level. In that case it worked out better having the door in, so that the frame was maintained square as I fudged things up.

3. 
   ed2 | May 16, 2004 07:11pm | #3

   if you have a helper to handle the unit, there's a trick to adjust the door    once when no one was around i got my mother out of the nursing home for a few hours   never heard so much whining, don't know how my father put up with it    i bought lunch, let her use one of my belts for free too

   level and flash the sill in the rough opening    lead flashing is best as it is malleable, shapes with a block, cuts with a knife     bend it so it extends up each side of r.o. about 6"   the curb portion into the house is easily bent up after door install and shaped flat using a block, especially folding the corners where it extends up the sides    no cuts from sharp edges like with aluminum  

   lay door exterior side down on floor    rough adjust reveal at head and jambs       slide a cedar shingle between door and threshold on the lockset side    might have to cut tip of shingle so it doesn't bottom out on floor    tap in just firmly keeping the reveal clean at head and jambs and the lockset area in alignment      lift door w shingle in place, angle through r.o. and bring onto flashing     if door settles and reveal opens up at head on lockset side, the threshold gasket compressed    relieve weight of door off gasket, tap shingle in to compensate, realign lockset area & reveal

   helper keeps door tight against sheathing, shim from inside and fasten     when you shim, don't stuff a bunch of shingles tip-first into r.o. as jamb will be uneven and fasteners will pull it all over the place   send heavy side of shim in first, then uniform out with skinny end in next    i work down hinge side, then lockset side, none on head piece

   having reveal pre-set eliminates a lot of jockeying, allows you to focus on plumbing and shimming unit into r.o.     

4. 
   mike4244 | May 16, 2004 08:12pm | #4

   I remove the door on interior and exterior jambs. I mark the center of the opening and mark the width of the jamb on hinge side. This tells me how much to shim at this point. Shims are cut and tacked on with a brad nailer, then a plumb bob or level give me the amount to shim at bottom. I either pull a line using gauge blocks or sometimes just a straight edge. Now I shim in between to the line.On the lock side I tack a shingle point to one side of stud, leave other side off til jamb is in place and door is hung.Then snug up shingle on other side and nail thru jamb.

   I've found that this is the best and fastest way for me to install any door, prehung or not.

   mike

1. 
   DaveEsposito | May 16, 2004 10:15pm | #5

   Mike, I'm confused with your method...You've taken the door off the jamb. Now I'm having troubling understanding the connection between finding the center point of the rough opening and measuring the width of the jamb and that giving you your shimming info...I just don't understand what you are doing...

   Dave

1. 
   MojoMan | May 17, 2004 03:10am | #6

   I won't pretend to speak for Mike, but as I understand his post, he wants to be sure the new door will be centered in the old rough opening, so he determines how much shim is required to do this on the hinge side jamb by checking at the top of the door.

   I like this approach. Door installations can seem like three-dimensional multivariate puzzles if you don't find one true benchmark and work from there.

   Al Mollitor, Sharon MA

2. 
   mike4244 | May 17, 2004 09:56pm | #8

   Dave I'll explain it another way. If the RO is 38" , I mark 17" from one stud. Then I measure the width of the jamb, say it is 37 1/2" . The 1/2" difference is the total amount of shimming at this point. I tack a 1/4' shim on the hinge side near the top. Plumb off the shim to the floor and add whatever thickness shim is required. Place straight edge ( I usually pull a line with gauge blocks instead) against shims and fill in where required to the straight edge or dryline.

   When the hinge side is done, I take a shingle point and tack it with brad nailer at top bottom and at the lock height. I just tack one on until the frame is in place. After checking the head for level and jambs for square, I nail the hinge side up. Then snug up shims on lock side, nail top and bottom. Hang door, check reveal , add intermediate shims on lock side, then nail completely.

   mike

1. 
   DaveEsposito | May 18, 2004 05:09am | #9

   By George, I think I've got it! Thanks Mike.

5. 
   bkhy | May 17, 2004 03:45am | #7

   i like to remove the door --easier to handle the frame