Replies

1. 
   dieselpig | Nov 16, 2003 08:04am | #1

   Maybe I'm missing something here, but when installing Hardi-plank siding, the nails should only be driven flush, that's why they push the blind-nailing installation so much (except in high wind areas.)  I'm assuming that by "textured" you were referring to the Hardi Plank Cedarmill Select.

   Shouldn't actually be any nail holes to fill.  Hardi is only 5/16" thick...not much room for sinking the nails.  When I've installed it and face nailed I've always just made sure the nails were flush and painted right over 'em.  With the way the Hardi takes acrylic latex paint, they hardly show up.

    Might want to bump up the size of your text....that way some of the older more experienced guys can see it and chime in!  ;)

1. 
   CAGIV | Nov 16, 2003 09:54am | #2

   Maybe he is talking hardi-panel.  Can't exactly blind nail a sheet. 

   Have you ever worked with the stuff? 

   I'm not a fan. 

   Edit:  Either product though you're right, not susposed to sink the nails...  bad mojo.

   Edited 11/16/2003 1:55:08 AM ET by CAG

2. 
   davidc | Nov 16, 2003 09:13pm | #3

   Your correct, its cedar mill select Hardi Plank 5/16"x8" siding that my framing contractor is installing. I agree with you that the nails should be flush and not countersunk.  This framer and others that I have used all nail the hardi siding with air guns.  I looked at other projects in the area by other builders and the Hardi is installed the same way albiet not correctly.

   I will have to bring this up with the installer and either he corrects the air pressure and assures the nails are not countersunk or I will have to find another.  Thank you for your time.

1. 
   dieselpig | Nov 17, 2003 12:08am | #4

   Gravy,

      I've always used a gun too.  I use the Hitachi NV 75 or NV 65AH coil siding nailer.  Both of these guns (and any decent siding nailer) should have a tool-less depth of drive adjustment on the gun.  Back the compressors down to 90 psi and wind the nailer down a bit and it shouldn't be a problem.  If your framer is too lazy to handle an installation detail this simple, you may want to look around for another framer.

   Just my opinion!  :)

1. 
   Manchild | Nov 17, 2003 03:00am | #5

   I worked for a contractor that used a nailer that really couldn't be set to not punch them too deep. He just didn't want to buy another gun. used the same gun for everything. I have a feeling a lot of guys are doing the same.

   Turning the preasure down didn't fix the problem. You need some sort of adjustment in the nose.

2. 
   ANDYSZ2 | Nov 17, 2003 03:10am | #6

   I like using a roofing coil nailer and brackets that hold the bottom lip you still occasionally have to shoot in an exposed area to pull the siding up tight but it is not hard to hide with caulk or filler.

       ANDYSZ2I MAY DISAGREE WITH WHAT YOUR SAYING BUT I WILL DEFEND TO THE DEATH YOUR RIGHT TO SAY IT.

3. 
   FrankB89 | Nov 17, 2003 04:25am | #7

   I've hand-nailed it, used a roofing gun and a framing gun.  Each method had drawbacks. 

   For the most recent job, I bought a Makita siding nailer and the flush nailing feature does a perfect job, every time...when face nailing is needed from place to place, we usually just hand nail.

   Friends who use a Hitachi siding nailer rave about it too!

    

2. 
   darcey | Nov 17, 2003 06:19am | #8

   We use the smooth hardi-panel on our porch lids. Occaisionally a nail will set too deep, instead of flush. Our painters use bondo to fill when this happens.

   darcy