Replies

1. 
   Piffin | Dec 17, 2002 10:10pm | #1

   This is dependent on your stove being rated for this type application. Some need nine inch legs and some are OK with six inch legs. others require a totally non combustable structure under, not just the surface.

   Anyways...

   What is required is a non-combustable surface, 18" in front of the opening and 12" to any side all around.

   To achieve that with slate, I would apply backer board, set in thinset and screwed, then the slate set in thinset OR I would set the slate in a mud bedone inch thick. Since this raises it up more, you trim the edge with a molding around the perimeter.

   The only time a metal plate would be of benefit is if one is laying loose brick in a bed of sand for a temporary type installation, to insure that hot enbers don't work down through to the substrate. The applied slate and grout give you an integral surface to prevent that. Appliying metal now would make it difficult, if not impossible to achieve a sound bond. The metal would expand at a greater rate than the slate or the substrate and weaken the bond or even buckle, causing cracks to appear and loose tiles.

   Likewise, do not use an adhesive other than the cementious products. The heat will not be kind to it.

   .

   Excellence is its own reward!

   "The first rule is to keep an untroubled spirit.

   The second is to look things in the face and know them for what they are."

   --Marcus Aurelius

2. 
   WayneL5 | Dec 18, 2002 12:50am | #2

   Are you sure code is "metal" or is it "non-combustible"?  Like Piffin said, cement backer board or a cement base is best for tile.  It's worth clarifying with your code official.

1. 
   lblakely1 | Dec 19, 2002 12:30pm | #3

   Thanks for your interest.  The code is actually noncombustible or sheet metal, min. 53mm.  We chose the sheet metal method to reduce the height to the same as the adjacent wood floor.   A tile guy I know reccommended nailing the sheet metal down every 4" - I bought the nails.  Talked to the inspector and he said not backer board cement board or the sheet metal.  My partner couldn't be sure of the thickness of the metal and I could just imagine the house burning down and the insurance co. saying- well any way - I took the nails back sprung for the $40cdn for the cement board while my partner was unscrewing the sheet metal and ply.  I had this picture in my head of taking out all the screws and lifting up the ply.  You know that bond fast really works! After  3 hours of scraping and chiseling and about a 1/4 way through, we decided to leave and rescrew what was still there and place new ply where the old had been splintered away!  Now I'll set in the cement board - THE noncombustible and we will have a raised hearth!  Just take me out and shoot me!  Well at least I won't worry about the slate shifting around on the metal or the house burning down!  My partner is not impressed.  I think it may have helped  when I dropped the cement board on my foot though!

1. 
   grassbur501 | Dec 19, 2002 06:36pm | #4

   LOL, willdo!  Most of have learned most of what we know by trial and error, even when we had someone there to teach us.

   Enjoy your woodstove and your raised hearth!

   Mac