Replies

1. 
   Eric_Svendson | Oct 04, 2001 01:01pm | #1

   *
   Dean - Why do you only have 30 psi? "Normal" would be 55-65 psi. Is the drip irrigation fed from this 1" line?

   You will need a pump and a chambered tank (bladder) to boost the pressure to around 55-65 psi. I'm also thinking you will need a holding tank fed by your 1" line that the pump will take suction from, i.e. you will be similar to a well/septic system with the well filled from your 30 psi supply.

1. 
   xJohn_Sprung | Oct 04, 2001 08:59pm | #2

   *Dean --Check with your neighbors and see if they have the same problem. If not, then there may be something wrong with the line from the utility's main to your house. If so, perhaps if you all went to the utility they might be able to make an adjustment somewhere. Before doing any work, be sure what the cause of the problem is.-- J.S.

1. 
   CaseyR_ | Oct 05, 2001 05:29am | #3

   *There are some water pumps specifically labeled as booster pumps on various Web sites. Many of these are DC pumps for use with solar water systems and carry a premium price as a result. You might take a look at the following:http://www.purewater4u.com/store/Aquatec.shtmlhttp://www.spectrapure.com/kits_p3.htmhttp://www.dankoffsolar.com/waterpumps/specsheets/2900_flowlight/2900_flowlight_charts.htmlI would guess that a regular shallow well pump or convertible well pump could be rigged to use as a booster pump. This might give you higher flow at lower cost, however, you might need some type of regulator to make sure that the pump doesn't try to pump more water than the supply makes available. The resulting cavitation would likely damage the pump.I am planning on installing a system that will utilize a booster pump. It will be from a domestic well and will utilize two tanks, a low pressure tank filled by the submersible well pump to between 20 and 40 psi which will feed the booster pump and a secondary pressure tank beyond the booster pump that will feed the house. In my system, the booster pump will be cut off whenever the first pressure tank gets too low or the second pressure tank gets to the maximum set pressure. My local well supply company handles two types of pressure tanks - diaphragm and bladder water pressure tanks. I was told that the bladder types are more prone to failure and that replacing them can cost nearly as much as a new tank. The cost of either type was not too much different. If you are unfamiliar with pressure tanks, you might want to review the following sites:http://www.mannionspumphouse.com/pressuretanks.htmhttp://www.pumpworld.net/tanks.htmI will probably run the drip irrigation system from the low pressure tank, but I doubt that it would have enough pressure to run sprinkler system very well. If you are doing a lot of irrigation, then the maximum input capacity and the desired irrigation capacity will probably be the controlling factors in selecting a pump and in sizing a pressure tank(s), if you choose to have them.

2. 
   Dean_Backer | Oct 05, 2001 05:29am | #4

   *
   We are about to move into a house with 30 psi water pressure coming into the house via a 1" diameter copper line under the back deck (60" of clearance or thereabout). We wish to increase the pressure to somewhere around 70 psi and are wondering what the best option is. I've heard of pressurized tanks with or without pumps, and just pumps. I haven't been able to find someone with any direct experience with any of these systems, and of course was wondering what the most efficient, most quiet, etc... course of action might be. Who are some of the manufacturers? How much might one expect to pay? I hope to install it myself. The house has 3 full baths, extensive drip irrigation over the good part of an acre, and a medium sized in ground pool. Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.