Replies

1. 
   tsenator | Oct 23, 2012 06:55pm | #1

   I am by no means an expert - actually a newbee

   But that is what I would do. (Shim up joists)  I think I also read/saw to do just that from one of the finehomebuilding books on framing.  It makes a lot of sense too because you want your subflooring to be on a nice flat surface -- ps remember to glue subflooring before you nail with ring shank or deformed nails (or better yet screw) -- I highly recommend PL Premium glue - that stuff is great

2. 
   remodelman | Nov 03, 2012 08:14pm | #2

   Rip the rim joist.

3. 
   BossHog | Nov 03, 2012 08:51pm | #3

   I wouldn't bother shimming it.

   Around here treated lumber is usually kept outdoors and not covered up. So it's usually wet. Non-treated lumber is virtually always kept inside.  So it's usually dry.

   As your treated rim joist dries out it will probably shrink to about the same size as the joists.

4. 
   harryv | Nov 03, 2012 10:08pm | #4

   Pressure Treated Rim/Band

   Why would you use pressure treated material for the rim/band?

1. 
   edwardh1 | Nov 09, 2012 08:30am | #11

   why use PT wood

   harryvermehren wrote:

   Why would you use pressure treated material for the rim/band?

   if I were the building code king all rim joists would be PT.

   Leaks under patio doors, regular doors etc which cause rot are real expensive to fix.

1. 
   calvin | Nov 09, 2012 10:21am | #12

   Ed

   Proper installation of that door or anything else will prevent the water intrusion.  

   the first line of defense is the cheapest answer in the long run.

1. 
   DanH | Nov 09, 2012 07:50pm | #13

   Yeah, but with home construction "belt and suspenders" is generally not a bad idea.

1. 
   calvin | Nov 10, 2012 08:31pm | #14

   Proper belt OR proper suspenders and........

   Your pants won't fall down .  You won't go wrong with best practices.

   if the rim is susceptible to rot then so would the subfloor, the finished floor and the joist ends be.

2. 
   DanH | Nov 10, 2012 10:57pm | #15

   You never know when some landscaper is going to decide that it would be cool to mound dirt up against the foundation.

3. 
   calvin | Nov 11, 2012 08:10am | #16

   Well then,

   Best build your fool proof house on stilts and like the other guy, sheet it with treated ply.

   or

   go back to the cave.

4. 
   DanH | Nov 11, 2012 09:03am | #17

   Well, I've seen rotted rim joists in several homes, due to the soil "creeping up" on the foundation for one reason or another.

5. 
   calvin | Nov 04, 2012 06:58am | #5

   That it'll shrink is a given

   but, where?  The bottom or the top?............perhaps the middle?

   The purpose of the rim joist is mainly to hold the joists straight upright-keep them from rolling, and to keep them to layout.  Structurally the load is carried "mainly" by the joists themselves.  An eigth to a qtr isn't going to make too much difference in the scheme of things. 

   Keep the joists themselves in plane would be my goal.  Crown them and keep the deviations consistant.

   However, I'm no engineer or species specialist. 

1. 
   BossHog | Nov 04, 2012 07:19pm | #7

   "The purpose of the rim joist is mainly to hold the joists straight upright-keep them from rolling, and to keep them to layout."

   I disagree.  The rim joist supports the load bearing wall above the joists.

1. 
   calvin | Nov 05, 2012 06:22am | #8

   Ron

   I should have added that I would hold the joists up to the top of the rim and as it shrinks and settles the bottoms would probably come to rest on the sill.

   And too, that "most" of the load is carried by the joists.

   In stack framing as I was taught (not in school but in the mud), the studs sit directly above the floor joists, the ceiling joists and rafters directly above the studs.  The only time they were allowed to be in a different position was when the top plates were doubled (2' centers on the wall studs-16" on the joists and rafters). 

   In the frame, think of all of them as lined up point loads leading to the foundation.

   The band that parallels the run of the joists, we would block between it and the 1st joist.  Some inspectors would require us to do that according to layout of the wall (some would not give a hoot).

   I did mention that I've no engineering experience and will defer to you and whomever knows way more background than I.  To prove your point-most header kings and bucks rest solely on the plate and rim joist below.

   I should have also mentioned that I'm just a dumb carpenter with no formal schooling but those lessons in the mud.

1. 
   BossHog | Nov 05, 2012 06:17pm | #9

   There may be some regional differences here.

   I've never seen framing stacked.  I've heard people talk about it, but have never seen it done.

   With I-joist floors, the rim board is expected to take all the load. The brands I'm familiar with are capable of carrying about 2,000 PLF.  That's a lot of load. The ends of I-joists aremn't designed to be in compression.  (Although I realize that's not what we're talking about in this thread)

   BTW - I don't consider you dumb in any way. There's nothing wrong with 2 reasonable people disagreeing.

1. 
   calvin | Nov 05, 2012 06:20pm | #10

   well, heck yeah~

   Here's some difference also-squash blocks and 3/4 ply for the band.  The only two times I've used I-joists, that was the method.

6. 
   oldhand | Nov 04, 2012 07:14pm | #6

   pressure treated usually shrinks more

   What boss hog said. But that's the short sory.

   .