Replies

1. 
   DThompson | Dec 22, 2004 06:49pm | #1

   I saw a program from England it was about this large country estate and the management of it. The hired help treated the fence posts by drilling a 1" hole about 36" up it's base then drilling another 'filler hole' at a 45 degree angel to intercept the first hole. Both holes were plugged the bottom permanently the 45 degree with a removal plug. Once the post was in place then the long drill hole could be filled periodically with creosol. This insured wood preservation.

   On the other hand 'good' factory treated posts should last a long time.

2. 
   RyanBrant | Dec 22, 2004 09:09pm | #2

   We treat the bases of our posts, redwood or PT, with penetrating liquid epoxy.  Only been using it for 4 years, so the results won't be back for at least 5-10 more.  We use RotDoctor, but there are several manufactureres.  Before that, we treated posts, even PT, with at least one coat of Jasco's Copper Green.  If those 5 minutes get you even one more year, I think it's worthwhile.

3. 
   cliffy | Dec 22, 2004 09:25pm | #3

   Hi Sday

   I think just by using pressure treated wood and using "endcut" preservative on any cuts you should be fine.  I built 2oo feet of fence with pressure treated in 1990 and is is still as solid as the day I built it. 

   Merry Christmas

   Cliffy

4. 
   DanH | Dec 22, 2004 09:36pm | #4

   Backfilling with crushed rock will help a lot. Be sure to put a little in the bottom before placing the post.

5. 
   csnow | Dec 22, 2004 10:49pm | #5

   A clever fellow I know installed his fence by setting heavy steel angle in quickset concrete, then bolting the wood post to the angle.  The concrete was poured into sonotubes (backfilled with crushed stone) to prevent frost lift.  The smooth concrete walls prevent the heaving frozen ground from having anything to 'bite' on. 

   The wood never touches the ground.  With careful measurements, the steel could be set before the fence pieces have even arrived.  For posts that need to be leveled, this method makes the leveling very easy.  As a bonus, the fence can be removed easily for access, repair, or painting.

   I set 2 repair posts this way to try it out, and I think it's a good technique.  A similar method I have observed involved setting galvanized pipe, and drilling the bottom of the post to set over it.

   While pipe is cheaper to buy than angle, the pipe method seems harder to me.

   I have this alternate technique in mind that involves using 2x2 square tubing, perhaps even steel strut (cheap!), or steel sign post.  I would rout a dado in the back of the post to receive the square tubing, then through bolt it on.  The advantage over the angle is that it would be more concealed.

6. 
   JohnSprung | Dec 22, 2004 11:08pm | #6

   I've had good results with Jasco's Termin-8.  Not fence posts, but a "temporary" path of Doug fir 2x6's painted with Termin-8 is still in good shape after 30 years in direct contact with the ground. 

   For fence posts, I'd suggest getting a 5 gallon bucket, let the bottom ends of the posts soak in Termin-8 while you brush it on the sides.

    

   -- J.S.