On most of the house I’m down to bare wood. On the kitchen addition done 20+ years ago, there are only some small areas of paint peeling, which have been removed to bare wood. I planned on priming everything, should I just prime the bare wood areas? If I prime the painted areas as well, would it make for a better finished look?
Thanks
Kevin
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Replies
Interior or exterior?
That would determine my choice of primers, but in either case the best job would be to spot prime any bare wood and once that's relatively dry, prime everything. I'll often skip primer where the paint is in good condition, but I've never regretted using it.
Just be aware that unless you tint the primer to the final color, using a primer is unlikely to reduce the number of top coats needed.
Hey Don
It's the exterior, I'll attach a picture. Took that pic awile back, much more paint has been removed since. I'll prime everything, primer is whites and so is paint, 2 coats SW, some pink on fish scales at front and back of house and trim.
Kevin
PINK??!!
Come on, man. Don't let your wife pick the colors.
<G>
She was pushing for the whole house being pink!
compromise is good for for a healthy sex life <G>
Much as I hate working with oil-base primers, they really do adhere better than latex primers.
As long as the areas aren't too big, I like to apply the first coat of primer with a brush. I feel that it works it into the grain better. It's not because I've seen any paint failures when rollering primer, it's more of a gut feeling. Any old latex brush works fine. I prefer stiffer brushes such as the GenX brushes by E&J. In between uses, I put them in a plastic bag and store them in the freezer. When I'm done with the brush, I throw it away.
Be sure to post a pic with the pink fish scales. It will probably look better than it sounds :-)
I planned on brushing the whole house. I'll definitely be posting pics, only a few more days of prep, hopefully be painting by the end of the month.
That gable end is crying for some outrageous colors."Shawdow boxing the appoclipse and wandering the land"
Wier/Barlow
Prime it all IMHO
I can usually see a difference and my vision has gotten worse in the last 10 years.
My personal pet peeve is when the "interior desecrator" puts 12'x12" color samples on virgin walls.
Both.
Hit the bare spots , then prime the whole. It helps build the bare back to the finished level for a more even top coat.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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I'm like Duane - spot bare wood, then total prime.
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Thanks guys!
Hey Doc, I did buy one of them Wagner Paint Eaters, a big scrubby pad that strips paint.
It does work well for feathering and blending but not so hot for total stripping. Like 80 bucks at Lowes. 16 for a new pad.
I saw yer thread on sandblasting , and didn't get to it, but in a nutshell, don't. Heat gun and sharp shave hooks is the ticket. Follow with something like that paint eater and yer golden.
Now about my T3-T4, can I put a grease nipple there?Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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Duane,Why would you need a grease nipple at T3-4, most of your spine motion is in the cervical (neck) and Lumbar (low back). If it's stuck, see your chiro:)
Trapezious muscle next to the scapula spasms and yanks that outta whack. Old injury. Scapula, ribs and sternum all took it pretty hard.
Heh, my chiro gave up. Said there was nothing more he could do. Meloxicam saved my life I think, 10mg a day vs. 3600 mg of Ibuprofen.
I can do cool tricks like pop my rib outta my sternum tho' (G)Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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