Replies

1. 
   IdahoDon | Feb 05, 2010 06:13pm | #1

   Depends on the type of finish you are looking for. If it's just a primer coat to cut down on the amount of paint needed it probably doesn't matter what you use since even the cheapest paint or primer will work.

   If you have smooth walls I like to roll a coat of Block Filler primer on really thin with a 1/2" nap roller to create a slight texture that is essentially like a half dozen coats of rolled on paint--most smooth walls aren't that smooth and this will hide slight variations that would otherwise stand out.

   In general home owners tend to skimp on the amount of thickness of their primer/paint combination and the results look cheap. The goal is not to extend the paint as much as possible, but to build up a good durable thickness that looks good.

   Having said all that, as a remodeler I regularly go through the mis-tinted high quality paints at my supplier that are often sold for $4/gallon for the highest quality paints. Get the lightest colors and mix them all together in a 5 gal bucket and go to town. That's the most bang for your primer buck.

   For those who say the first coat over a plaster wall (unpainted) has to be an actual primer for adhesion, that's just not the case--straight paint has never fallen off a plastered/drywalled wall. If the wall was painted in the past simply use a water based primer such as Kilz2 for good adhesion and ease of application.

   Best of luck

1. 
   andybuildz | Feb 05, 2010 11:31pm | #2

   I like Kilz as well.

   Makes no sense to me to buy real cheap paint/primer. I always opt for a high guality paint.

   Happens to be though that Kilz isn't terribly expensive and I find it to be some of the best primer out there.

   I just skim coated a 400sq ft ceiling with 2 coats of hot mud and used Kilz primer and BM top coats.

   Came out awesome

   
1. 
   MarkH | Feb 07, 2010 09:02am | #6

   Hey Andy,

   I was wondering why you used hot mud to skim coat a ceiling. I would never try that. I'd probably use topping compound. I know hot mud sticks like glue, so that's the only real advantage I can think of.

1. 
   andybuildz | Feb 07, 2010 09:11am | #7

   Mark...tell me about it. I hated using it but I needed to get on two coats in one day. I used 45 minute. I don't think it sticks any differently than regular mud...matter of fact the longer you take the harder it gets..obviously. I was trying to work at lightening speed up on stilts yet.

   I will say this...it looks amazing now. Not that anyone but me will notice. It also dries far harder than prmixed mud...not that, that matters on a ceiling...but to me, knowing it's there gives it a more plaster like finish...not that anyone will notice, but me...lol

1. 
   MarkH | Feb 07, 2010 09:25am | #8

   Knowing you did a great job even if no one else notices has to be satisfying. That setting stuff had to be a living nightmare though.

2. 
   andybuildz | Feb 07, 2010 09:30am | #9

   It's really not as bad as you
   It's really not as bad as you think Mark. If you need more working time then get the 90 minute. Depending on how good you are at mudding walls just mix up less at a time and do smaller areas. Like anything else it's always about trying to make your project as manageable as possible. It's all in the prep.

   Sometimes I just push myself depending on the conditions.

   Nothin' to it/but to do it!

3. 
   megspop | Feb 08, 2010 09:32pm | #11

   I use the 15 minute for drywall patches. Mix only what you need and thoroughly clean your mixing bucket in between batches of mud. Works great and multiple coats in a day is the best advantage. It does dry harder than the premixed and stiffens up on your knife if you're not fast enough but over all I like it and keep a bag on hand if I'm only on the jobsite for that one repair.

2. 
   jyang949 | Feb 06, 2010 09:33am | #3

   Some sites say that the best latex primers can replace oil-based. Others say that it isn't a question of quality or coverage; plaster absorbs and holds water so an oil-based primer is necessary. Any opinions?

   Janet

1. 
   IdahoDon | Feb 06, 2010 08:11pm | #4

   Oil based primers aren't
   Oil based primers aren't necessary--anyone claiming that simply doesn't know what they are talking about.

1. 
   JPriest | Feb 07, 2010 03:54am | #5

   Old based primers ARE better in certain applications. This happens to be one of them. But I'm still not sure if we're talking painting or plaster repair. If plaster repair, I'd recommend a primer of Weldbond first.

1. 
   jyang949 | Feb 10, 2010 10:09am | #13

   Both painting and plaster repair.

   I took one wall down to the shiny plaster layer.

   For the cracks:

   Dug out any crumbling plaster

   applied PlasterWeld

   filled it with Durabond 45 (replacing a third of the water with PlasterWeld).

   Janet

2. 
   Jeff_Clarke | Feb 07, 2010 05:32pm | #10

   It has to be cured plaster (first).

   Here's the selection matrix for Sherwin Williams:

   View Image

   I would suggest:

   View Image

3. 
   barmil | Feb 09, 2010 10:10pm | #12

   In all primer situations, my advice is to first look at Zinsser 1-2-3 to see if it suits. In most cases it will, interior and exterior. It sticks so well, I wear old clothing when using it, as it'll never wash out. It takes intense scrubbing to get it off my skin, as well. Brushes get very stiff if not cleaned immediately. Also not that expensive -- usually always on sale.