We need to tear out the rusty chain-link fence this summer. We’d like to go with a 5′ privacy fence (solid) across the back alley, and a 4′ fence around the rest.
Cedar would be nice, but out of our price range. Not too keen on a green treated fence from Home Depot/Menards/Lowes either.
Our tastes lean towards the modern. I’m thinking of using 4×8 vertical siding hardi-panels framed in 4×4 sections hung from galvanized posts set in concrete. Any thoughts on that? Any other suggestions for relatively easy/modern-ish panel systems for fencing?
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How bout dis ?
; )
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A person with no sense of humor about themselves, has no sense at all.
That is just cool, and I am sure the wife would love it. Unfortunately, anyone living in an HOA ####-controlled community will never get that pass them.
Luka - that is too cool! Can you give us the story behind it? Did you design or build it? Is it for an art-school of some kind? (If you don't know the story, could you make up a good one for us?)
ROFLOLI have no idea where the fence is, or what the story is behind it.I saw it on an art forum, and saved the pic, because I am considering what I will eventually do when I start painting my own place.Even if I never do anything like it, it certainly is inspiring.=0)Ummmm, the jolly green giant dropped his pencil box ???
A person with no sense of humor about themselves, has no sense at all.
look into vinyl fencing
http://www.finylvinylbp.com/Products/Fences/fences.html
Tmaxxx
Urban Workshop Ltd
Vancouver B.C.
cheers. Ill buy.
What you propose sounds fine to me except for maybe a couple things. I would wonder about the galvanized posts rusting, but I guess they do it all the time with chain-link fences and those seem to last a long time. I would be concerned about the 4x4 panels wanting to sail away in strong winds, or to push the fence over.
I really like the idea of alternating vertical boards each side of a 2x4 or 2x6 frame for the panels. Then the wind can sort of weave its way through so there isn't so much pressure on the panels. There is still privacy because the boards "overlap" (though not on the same plane. The only down side to that idea is leaves and snow might pile up inside the frame and rest on the lower frame member causeing it to rot--maybe build it out of 2 2x4's with blocking so there is drainage.
I would probably use posts of 4x4 PT put in ground to the frost line resting on gravel and surrounded by gravel and/or sand, then I could just nail or screw the panels to the posts. Better might be using hangers. (Last fence I did was vinyl that screwed to special brackets that screwed to vinyl sleeves over PT posts.)
One suggestion: I've found in building fences that making a "try square" the size of the finished panel (at least horizontally) (it's just a 1x4 frame with a diagonal brace to keep it square) really helps in putting up the fence. Start at one end with a post, clamp the "square" to the post and mark the location of the next hole. Remove the square, dig the post hole, place post and clamp the square back in place while you fill around the second post. Then put in the finished panel--may have to pull the second post away from first to get the panel in. Then tamp the fill around the second post. Work your way down (that is, don't try to set all the posts first and add the panels later--tried that once and had to "adjust" the holes and holes don't slide over too easily). Anyway, that method worked for me.
The problem with vinyl fencing is that, well...it's vinyl. Yea, maybe I'm being prejudiced, but I really would like to avoid it. They only seem to come in glaring white and just really stick out in a more natural setting IMHO. regarding the galvanized...my thinking was that it'd last longer that pre-treated 4x4s. I'd be getting 8' posts, sinking them in 3-4 feet of concrete. Synthetic wood would be an option, I suppose...are they at the point where thy can be used for posts (enough strength?)"put in ground to the frost line resting on gravel and surrounded by gravel and/or sand"I've heard that's the way to go (to avoid rot) UNLESS you are on solid clay...which is what we're on. Is that correct? I'd much prefer that, as I'd rather not deal with the concrete, but we're also on solid clay, and my understanding is that would just create a pocket of water for the post to soak in.And thanks for the tri-square tip!
Yes, you are right on all counts--vinyl is sort of cheap looking and white really stands out and now that I think more about it, galv. posts will last as long or longer than PT wood, and in clay, putting them in concrete is definitely the way to do it. I doubt that synthetic wood has enough strength.
"Depending on what is allowed by your HOA, you could consider metal roofing material."HOA. Pfft. I don't think I'd last in a HOA. ;o)Actually, corrugated galvalume was one of the options I was considering. Only two drawbacks: neighbors may not like it and the kids bounsing balls off it all day might get a bit old (loud).But, it's still on the table. I was actually loooking at using Ondura panels, but discovered that they are only colored on one side. I could double those up, though."I built a fence along an alley 6-8 years ago with a wood frame and "Pro Panel" type roofing. "Would you happen to have a pic of that? Sounds like a good option."I doubt that synthetic wood has enough strength."Yea, that was my undersstanding of the products a few years ago...fine for planks, but not structural. Hopefully they'll figure that out soon. It's nice stuff.
Are you sure cedar is out of your price range? Several of the ideas suggested (vinyl, metal, etc.) would be much more than cedar. You could buy some 8' pickets and cut them in half, making a good, relatively cheap fence.
Don't get your pickets at HD or L, find a good wholesale supplier, many will sell to the public, and may even point both ends of those 8 footers for you.
Speaking of Ondura panels, I really like them. I designed a house for a competition sponsored by Dwell magazine and Habitat for Humanity and some art museum in North Carolina to design a Habitat house that was a little less bare bones and had more up scale features. I called for Ondura panels on the roof and even thought it might be sided in them. Didn't win the competition--never saw the winners even mentioned in the magazine later.
Danno:You should share your entry in here. I'd love to see it!Thanks for the feedback everyone. I will check into cedar again. I may not have given it a fair shake.
Hmmm..maybe will do that (share my entry), but I only took a photo of the drawing--it's not computer generated, so the details get pretty small.
Turns out when my computer got screwed up last year the better photos were lost, but I just took the photo below (hope this works, I'm following directions to print it directly instead of as attachment)--that's only part of the page, but the detail is better. Don't know here the copy is that I colored. You asked for it: (Sorry the quality sucks.)
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Edited 4/19/2005 8:57 am ET by Danno
reg. fence idea
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Edited 4/18/2005 2:26 am ET by JAGWAH
Depending on what is allowed by your HOA, you could consider metal roofing material.
I built a fence along an alley 6-8 years ago with a wood frame and "Pro Panel" type roofing. I put the material on "backwards" (ribs against the fence frame which stands the pans about 3/4" off the frame. We screwed only through the ribs. That approach keeps the fence from rattling in the wind. We bought brown painted metal and the brown was to the inside with the white backs of the panels to the alley.
We actually got a compliment on the look of the fence from the neighbor across the alley.
No maintenance!
I'm thankful for the loyal opposition! It's hard to learn much from those who simply agree with you.
I try to be helpful without being encouraging.
How about planting an ivy on the 4 foot fence and building the cedar across the back? Also, I built a 6' across the back of my yard using the "green" dog-eared panels, but they really aren't that green anymore and don't look that different from weathered cedar.
Just a thought.