Replies

1. 
   DanH | Jan 25, 2012 10:14pm | #1

   Are you using a "pusher" such

   Are you using a "pusher" such as a piece of scrap to push it through?  The problem basically occurs because the two pieces go separate directions.  Using a pusher flat against the back edge keeps the two pieces in alignment a little better.

1. 
   Planman | Jan 25, 2012 10:59pm | #2

   Pusher

   Yes, I tried using the flat edge of another tile as a pusher but still get chip out. I even tried starting the cut from the other side and then turning the tile end for end to finish the cut but still no luck. But thank you for the reply.

1. 
   calvin | Jan 26, 2012 07:00am | #3

   Apply down pressure on each side of the tile......

   as you push it through. 

   If you look closely, the tile drops a very tiny bit when the cut through is made.

2. 
   DanH | Jan 26, 2012 07:45am | #4

   You might try hot-gluing a piece of wood across the width of the tile, to hold everything aligned.  A bit tedious, though, and no promises.

   The pusher trick worked for me (on smaller tile), last time I was sawing them, but maybe one of the 'sperts out there can provide a better suggestion for wide tile.

3. 
   hammer1 | Jan 26, 2012 08:16am | #5

   Which saw are you using? The one with a sliding table or the one with the fence? If the one with the fence, have you checked the fence for proper alignment with the blade. An out of line fence may put side stress on the tile as it is pushed ahead. I'm just guessing, I've never used a Ridgid saw or one with a fence. Same principal as a table saw.

4. 
   Mongo | Jan 26, 2012 02:33pm | #6

   blade alignment

   is usually what it is. Just enough lateral pressure from a misaligned fence-vs-blade to pop the tile too early. Pressure can also happen from an uneven tray or table under the tile, the twi almost cut pieces are unevenly supported.

   You could try dressing the blade to get new diamonds. Sometimes there can be a bit of thermal in there as well from a not-too-sharp blade.

   One last recommendation...is to add a thin filler strip of wood between the tile and the fence or jig. Say 1/2" thick. Make most of your cut. When you get within an inch or two of completing the cut, slip out that thin filler. Your tile will be unsupported by the fence or jig, thus you can free hand the rest of the cut through the blade. That'll eliminate any lateral pressure caused by fence-blade-cutline misalignment.

   One other techniques is to cut halfway from corner to the middle fo the tile, flip the tile, then complete the cut from the other end.

   Concentrate on your technique too. Think of pushing the tile or support tray straight thrugh the blade, concentrate on not adding any lateral pressure.

5. 
   Planman | Jan 26, 2012 08:28pm | #7

   Got it

   The problem turned out to be a very slightly misaligned fence, something I would not have thought of if not for your suggestions. Thanks all.

6. 
   blakevw | Jan 28, 2012 01:40pm | #8

   Try scoring the tile. Keep the scored line to the piece you are keeping, if a chip happens, it should stop at the scoring point.  this works well for glazed ceramic tile. 

   Alternately you could cut half way, turn the tile around and complete the cut from the opposite side of the tile.

   Good luck!

1. 
   DanH | Jan 28, 2012 01:49pm | #9

   Sometimes it works to just make a nick (like with a triangle file) on the far end of the cut line.  This will cause the tile to split there vs tearing off a sliver along the edge.

7. 
   Ted W. | Feb 04, 2012 01:00pm | #10

   A little late but...

   I realize this is a little late but just want to mention that if the tiles are glazed and relatively smooth textured, you might be able to score and snap most of the cuts on a manual cutter, and save the wet saw just for the tricky cuts. If this works, it sure saves a lot of running back and forth to the saw.