Problems with Bostitch MiiiFS Stapler for Hardwood Flooring
I am laying Hardwood flooring and purchased a new Bostitch Stapler to help. I am using a 3/8 hose and set pressure from 70 to 140 pounds.The staples are 2″ Bostitch.
The staples at 70 psi are about 1/2 out of being flush with the edge at 90 about 1/4 and at 140 about 1/16. I am going thru the hardwood, a layer of 3/4 and 1/2 plywood. Not into the floor joist yet. I am hitting the plunger hard. The compressor is a Cambell Hussfield wih 150 psi cap and about 20 feet of hose. Since it was new out of the box I added some oil to it. Oil came with another gun I purchased about 2 weeks ago for crown moulding.
The problem is the staple head,which is not deep enough, will not allow the next board to put up tight.
I have nailed about 20 staples and have not had a single good good one. I have about 1,400 ft sq, so I don’t want to have to finish with a punch. Should I return and get another brand?
Any Suggestions?
Replies
John
I have used older model bostich guns, this should apply though. Pressure for what you got-should be around 100+, but no where near 140.
Staple length-2" should drive no problem.
You don't have to hit the plunger hard.
Proper base plate on it?
Something is wrong which you have figured out. Air gauge bogus? Pressure to gun not what you think? If you bought it from a tool supply, take the whole shebang back with some of your scrap and show them.
online purchase? beats me.
I found out how to remove the bumper washer by removing the black base from the yellow unit. Took out the washer and it was bent bad.
After removing it works great.Just a little too deep. I have ordered a new washer.
John
What do you think bent it? was it that way outta the box?
Where'd you get the gun?
Took it out of the box installed the handle and shot about 20 staples and they did not sink up. Asked Bostitch what to do and they said to remove the washer. Lookup up on the internet how to remove the washer.Took it apart and saw the washer bent. It was still shooting but did not sink About 1/4 inch left out. Got the gun from Amazon. Today I put down about 150 sq ft with it with no problems using 75psi.
John
Good to hear you are outta the gate. Take it easy, even with the air assist-flooring is no walk in the park.
Sleep good at night..but getting out of bed is a challange.
No major issues so far. Took someone's suggestion on using Dremel tool for cutting off partial driven staples and works great and is faster than trying to remove. I had the pressure set too low. Doorways, hallways, closets and the last rows take some time. This being said, the first room looks fantastic.
John
The only thing that interupts a good nights sleep in this trade, is the thoughts of tomorrow's work.
Hopefully you'll be posting a couple pictures of your work.
Are you running about a hundred pounds now? Bamboo and fir run in the low 80's, but for most hardwood-100 seems to be the number. Much better now not wailing on the mallet I'd bet. As you get close to a wall, you'll find more of a direct straight down tap allows you to continue to use the nailer.
Quite a progression over the years from hand nailing to nailer to the adored air assist.
What are you using for your undercutting of casings and jambs?
75 Pounds is doing well. More pressure seems to break the tongue.
Thanks for the tip in nailing next to the wall. Subtituted a 16oz regular hammer to hit the nailer with and it works fine.
Was trying to train the termits to do the undercut on trim for me but they don't know when to stop. Borrowed a Bosh works really great.
Things I found to help:
1. Hardwood install kit from Harbor Freight.
a. Hard rubber block
b. Steel plate turned 1 1/2 " up on one end and down 1/2" down on the other and about 8" long to pull in tight next to the walls
2. Trim cutter. Saw
3. Dremel Tool to cut off bad staples
4. Straps to pull up bowed or cupped boards
5. 1/4 wood strip to put next to the wall on the right side when looking at the toung. The 1/4 inch allows you to mark the board at the joint for cutting. After you reverse it for cutting the 1/4 tound and 1/4 strip will give you a 1/2 inch gap next to the wall.
6. Brad Nailer which will shoot 2" brads. Used Zen. or drill and finish nails
7. Miter Saw. Be sure to check to insure 90 degrees both directions
8. Table Saw
9. Air Compressor and 3/8 hose
10. Nail Punch to set brad nails and staples which don't go down far enough
11. Hand brush to final clean before installing hardwood
12. Knife to cut tar paper
13. Wood filler to fill brad nail holes
14. Sharp Pencils or Sharpie
15.Knee Pads
16. Tape Measure to check the width of the room to keep straight and square
17. Square and Level
18. Caulk for Fireplace.
19. Chalk Line or laser light for starting line
20. Staple Gun and staples forto staple tar paper to floor.
21 1 to 1 1/2 inch Chisel to pull up boards with minor bow
22. Pry Bar to remove bad boards after being installed
23. Glue to glue up a spline in the grooves of the hardwood crossing the threshold to change direction into other rooms on each side of a hallway.
24 And of course Safety Glasses especially when using Dremel tool to cut nail heads. Hear Protection from compressor and air hammer.
25. Two of us put down 150 ft sq in 7 hours. Inluded a hallway and closet. We had to remove some boards because splintering when nailed on the top.And having to strap to correct bows and cuppled boards. Rejecting bad and off color boards. The person nailing will be faster than the person aligning the hardwood.
Found that if you grind down an old hammer claw, on one side, to a little less than a 1/2 inch, it will remove most staples.Although some will break in half. Then I used the Dremel tool.
This being said, it isn't difficult to install but difficult spots will take longer than you think or unjaming a gun, or cutting off the wrong end of a board. Fitting boards so the joints are not too close.
The best tool for pulling up the joints is the 12" floor Jack. You can screw a 2x4 to the subfloor and use the 2x4 for a base for the floor jack. Pulls up even the worst curved or bowed boards.