I searched for this and found only one other thread and it kind of answered my question but not really. I want to mount a projector to the ceiling in a location where there is no joist or blocking. Obviously I’m asking if the drywall will support the weight. The projector and mount together weigh approx 10-11 lbs. The mounting plate is 4×4.
The drywall is 5/8 and the trusses are 24 o.c. and I have to mount it directly in the middle of two trusses for the screen to be centered on the wall. There is no leeway one way or the other to move it from this location as the wall where the screen is is between two dormers and the screen fills that wall. Movign closer or away from the wall doesn’t help as I am just moving parallel to the trusses. And there is NO access to above the ceiling.
In the other thread it was suggested to cut a hole for an octagonal box and install the type that has the supports that jam into the adjacent joists. But how then would I mount my plate to the box? Don’t see how that would work for my situation as the mount plate is square with holes around the perimeter.
One other note is that where the mount plate will go is right near(within an inch or so) of a “break” in the ceiling(walls are 7′ and ceilings 8′). I would think that would help with support or am I wishful thinking?? Haha
I will attach a picture. The projector will basically be directly above the sofa and right at the “break” in the ceiling/wall.
BTW I built the cabinets and wainscotting. Huge project but it turned out well I think. Have to wait for the pic until I am at work. Sorry.
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The 5/8 drywall should have no problem holding that load. Use self-drilling plastic drywall anchors (as below).
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Looking at EZ Anchors website they never show an application of those you show going vertical, only horizontally into vertical DW.
If you have a 4x4 plate, cut a 3 3/4" hole in the gypbd. and put some wood inside to mount it to.
Sorry, but I'm going to give you the opposite advice. 10-11 lbs of dead vertical load would probably be fine mounted just to the drywall, but with that small 4x4 mounting plate, it wouldn't take much side load to send that (presumably expensive) projector tumbling to the floor. Think about plugging in connectors, getting bumped when moving furniture, etc. I think you'd be much better off to spend the time (or the money) to remove a chunk of drywall and install proper blocking between the trusses.
How about a square piece of plywood, large enough to reach across the joists? Screw that to the ceiling and then fasten the projector to it. Put some quarter round molding or something similar around the edges and paint it so it will be unobtrusive.
I second the advice to add a sheet of wood to the ceiling. Make the edges purty and no one but you will even know it's there.
Perhaps even a piece of steel made to look like a professional mount would be good. Of course you could probably buy something like this for the speciffic purpose.
Route a squirrel
If the projector will be mounted to the ceiling, are the trusses in an attic? If they are, a piece of plywood could be laid over the mount's location. Also, since AC will have to be there, switching to an old work box would let you place a strip of plywood over the mount and screw it in from the bottom. Then, you can use an Arlington high/low voltage box, like this: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=261-430
You need the video cables there, anyway and a box like this lets you get your hand up to hold the wood in place.
Considering the price of a projector, I wouldn't use just the drywall to support it.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Edited 2/11/2008 11:08 pm by highfigh
I'd bet the projector has a keystone adjustment feature allowing it to be off center. You could try it by setting the projector on top of a step ladder directly under one of your joists and see if it squares up to a satisfactory level.
Otherwise, go with the plywood painted to match the ceiling.
Just about any projector will have a vertical keystone adjustment but only the very high end pro models have a horizontal keystone adjustment. I wonder if you could adapt a ceiling fan mount to do the trick?
Using Keystone correction is not a good thing. Its okay for powerpoint, but would have a bad affect on picture quality / fidelity for watching movies.
Aside from the question of "fall down go boom", there's the issue of vibration. I'd be concerned that a marginal installation will make it prone to vibrating from people walking, appliances, or ven an internal cooling fan. I vote for more substantial support...
PaulB
Paul,
Good point, being a photog., I deal with this alot. Most of these projectors are lite with a quartz lamp, VERY, expensive lamp. Vibrations and moving around while hot shortens the life span of the lamp.
I'm with the keep it simple kids here. I'd cut a piece of 3/4" AC plywood (one side filled and sanded) to span the the joists, by 6" wide. Drill the holes needed for the projector's mount and wiring, then fasten it to the ceiling with #10X3" wood screws or deck screws, not drywall screws. Add some 3/4"X1/4round molding, prime and paint. Then you're ready to install everything with ease.
You could prime and paint the pieces before putting them up, then touch them up afterwards.
I think this is the route I'm going to go. I really only want a "semi-permanent" install so this way if/when I ever remove the projector there is limited rework to get the ceiling back to original look. I have plenty of poplar left over I can cut a piece and router a decorative edge on. The wiring I will try to keep as neat as possible....you will see the whole thing but I'm sure I can do it so I'm happy with it....anybody doesn't like it they don't have to sit and watch the 8 foot screen with surround sound. They can leave. Hahah
Thanks for all the tips and advice.
As I said in the original post I would attach pics.....wanted to get some thoughts on how the project looks anyhow.
Please excuse the mess in the dormers. And I have touched up the paint around the wainscotting since the pics were taken. I also did the craftsman style trim around the window and doors. The carpet gus are coming next week to restretch and fit the carpet where I cut it for the bookshelves.
Here's what you want.
You got a fancy projector for a fancy room you might as well go all the way.
Look at the second panel.
http://www.auton.com/
Auton = ridiculously overpriced.
Cut a hole in the ceiling for an outlet box. Cut a 2 x 4 that fits reasonably well between the trusses and insert it up into the hole and work it into place above the ceiling - attach to the backside of the ceiling with PL 400 or liquid nails. Mount the outlet box to the wood in the hole and use the wood blocking to get several points of good attachment for the projector. When removing (later) put a cover plate on the box.
Jeff
Edited 2/13/2008 12:56 am ET by Jeff_Clarke
Pricey but cool.
Instead of fitting a 2x4 thru the box hole, a ceiling fan box with the adjustable bracket would be plenty strong enough to hold the projector.
To the pair of studs in the box mount a prefabricated platform. Route the wiring up thru the box. Use decorative cover to finish.
"E-Z Mount Toggle Bolts" have worked great for me. If you are still concerned, consider mounting a piece of plywood/melamine/solid blocking to the joists and mount the projector to that.