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Propane Furnace Gas Valve Question

Karl27 | Posted in Energy, Heating & Insulation on February 28, 2010 02:00am

My friend’s house was destroyed by a tornado last year. After cleanup only the decking was left over the walkout basement and the chimney. A roof was put over the basement and it is now a storage/ workshop. Am trying to get the propane furnace in the basement going. Ducts that went up have been removed or sealed. Replaced the gas valve and the fan control switch.  Got a universal gas valve that matched the original piloted valve in configuration. I did the LP gas spring change and turned the spring screw 11 turns per the instructions. Tested the furnace with a gas grill bottle of propane thru the original tank regulator. The pilot flame was too strong, looking more like a torch flame than a pilot light, and it would not adjust.

   Just wondering if the problem is in the gas valve or the use of the small propane bottle. A 350 gallon tank is coming in a couple of weeks. Should I adjust the turns on the spring or just wait until the big tank arrives? Thanks.

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  1. User avater
    rjw | Feb 28, 2010 02:59pm | #1

    Beaware that a stand alone furnace, with the return right at the furnace itself, can be hazardous.

    If the whole space is too tight, the blower can depressurize the area right around the furnace and prevent flue gases from rising through the flue (aka 'backdrafting');  possibly leading to dangerous levels of carbon monoxide

    Re pressure:

    QUOTE

    PROPANE TERMS FOR CYLINDERS AND TANKS*

    Tank Pressure  Unregulated vapor pressure in any size propane tank can range from about 60 to 120 psi on average.  This pressure is not consistent and fluctuates constantly based on the temperature of the propane and the draw of vapor from the upper vapor space.  When the temperature of the liquid drops due to the boiling process, the pressure decreases.  When the liquid warms the pressure increases.  Due to this constant fluctuation and the fact that the engine fuel components operate best at steady input pressures, a regulator must be installed to keep the OUTLET pressure consistently the same or REGULATED.  There are two types of regulators in the propane industry as described next. 

    High Pressure  Typically RED in color this regulator reduces the unregulated tank pressure to a constant outlet pressure between 8 to 12 psi (10 psi is average) no matter how much the tank pressure may fluctuate. 

    Low Pressure  Within this category there are 2 different types.  This regulator can be many different colors such as green, gray, brown, etc. and is a SECOND STAGE regulator designed to reduce the 10psi HIGH PRESSURE to a consistent 11" water column.  Silver is also a low pressure regulator but is considered a SINGLE STAGE regulator because it will accept tank pressure and drop it to a consistent 11" water column.

    http://www.propane-generators.com/portable-propane.htm

    1. User avater
      coonass | Feb 28, 2010 06:58pm | #2

      Karl,

      You need to see if this funace can be converted. Propane jets( smaller orifice)  need to be installed and the pilot needs to be adjusted. Natural gas has less pressure but bigger orifices on the jets and pilot tube.

      Read this since I type poorly. http://www.propane101.com/lpgasapplianceconversions.htm

      KK

  2. DanH | Mar 03, 2010 09:06am | #3

    I'm guessing you need a regulator between the tank and the valve.

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