Proper installation of exterior power outlet
anontemp123
| Posted in General Discussion on
I just had this installed. I’ve never seen outlets stick out like that. My contractor says this is how it’s supposed to be. To me it looks like half of this outlet should be inside the wall. I just want to doublecheck before the drywall goes up and it’s not accessible from the inside anymore. Any thoughts? (Click the picture for a larger view.)
Replies
It is usually possible to bury most of that stuff in the wall, but it's a lot more work, and most electricians won't do it unless $uitably motivated. Plus, at that precise location there's no practical way (short of cutting into the foundation) -- it would have to be located about 8 inches higher on the wall.
The rules have gotten stricter in the past several years in that the cover must be able to close and seal even with something plugged in.
Yes, that's acceptable practice these days. I'd want a bead of urethane caulk around the box to wall junction and I'd want the hole where the wire penetrates the wall filled too.
Do you know what that dark grey substance is that currently sits around the box-to-wall junction? Can I just take that off and then caulk it?
On the other side the hole has been filled with spray foam.
That's electrical duct seal.
Is the caulk on the left an example of a urethane caulk? And do you think the adhesive on the right is acceptable, too? Water has been hitting this outlet directly every time it rains, and I just want to get it done right.
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yer nfpa gurus know what's best for you, and that is what they dreamed up to protect yer kiddies.
better make sure that outlet inside that big ugly box has a TR and a WR stamp on it too, or you'll die from 'lectrocution.
Last reasonable NEC was the 1980 version <G>
Amateur Work
While the instal probably meets code, it's a poor job. I say 'probably' because I do have a few quibbles.
First, this is a 'surface' instal. What was that about putting up drywall? Good heavens- if the wall is open behind it, why wasn't the receptacle put IN the wall? That's a snap with a multimaster. Arlington also makes what they call the "inbox" for this exact use.
I'm more concerned aboiut where the power comes from. I can't see the contractor drilling through the concrete stemwall, if he had an open wall above. The cable needs to connect to the box with a proper connector. "Romex," btw, is not supposed to be run through the crawl space.
Those boxes are intended to have a small gap at the base, to allow for drainage. Filling that gasp with caulk, putty, duct seal, etc., is not right.
Nor can I see how the box is attached to the wall. It DOES need to be attached with a screw or two; simply gluing it to the wall, or hanging it from a pipe through the wall won't do.
I can't see the device used. The receptacle should have "WR" (weather resistant) stamped on the face, and be GFCI protected. I'd ignore the code rule that it also be "TR" (tamper resistant), as I've had countless call-backs over the little shutters not working right.
The box used has a nice gasket and all sorts of details that make it "water tight." The problem is, moisture will still get in, whether from condensation or through the plug slots, and not be able to drain out. Installers will often put a TINY (1/8" or smaller) hole in the bottom face as a 'weep hole', for this reason. You absolutely do not want a larger hole, or the box will become home to wasps, spiders, or other critters.
Again, ignoring specific code rules, I'm not overly worried about the lack of an "in use" cover. Once again, what started as a 'nice idea' quickly grew into a monster that often interferes with the use of the receptacle. I'd save such covers for where there really are cords left in place for extended periods (say, for a lawn sprinkler timer or garden lights).
Thanks for the detailed reply, renosteinke. I won't pretend I understand everything you wrote, but I will try and provide some information.
The wall is open behind it and leads to a bulkhead in our finished basement. A hole was drilled from the opening, through the block foundation, to the outside. A wire was taken from a "junction box" in the bulkhead to the outside, and two screws were used to secure the outlet in place.I
I will look for the WR stamp, but it does have the reset/test buttons, which I equate to GFCI (not sure if that is a true assumption.)
Are there any websites or YouTube videos you've seen that illustrate how to leave a gap at the base to allow for drainage, and where to drill that weephole in the bottom face? I'm thinking I should check with a level to see where the water will likely collect, right?
Some More Info...
Page 2 of this link has nice pictures and an explanation of the weather-resistant and tamper-resistant markings: http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/wiringdevices/products/documents/brochures/tr_wr_twr_broch.pdf
In addition, the shutters of the 'tamper resistant' design are quite visible. With the test buttons, I'm sure you have a GFCI receptacle; that's good.
Where the wire enters the box, there should be a connector that grabs and holds the wire. Here is a picture of one such fitting: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BG4MXQ/ref=asc_df_B003BG4MXQ3974341?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=shopzilla0d-20&ascsubtag=shopzilla_rev_266-20;14473357007177685265110050301008005&linkCode=df0&creative=395093&creativeASIN=B003BG4MXQ
When assembled, the part with the screws is outside the box. In order to use it, the hole behind the box has to be about 1" wide; when you're drilling concrete, there's usua;lly a large flake that 'blows out' and makes room; otherwise, the tradesman gan use a larger bit or chisel to open up the face of the hole a little.
The space behind the box is made by the mounts that come with the box, as well as by little ridges / feet on the back of the box. The box simply cannot be mounted without having such a space. In your picture, the space is filled with putty. That's wrong.
Finally, here's a link to one type of 'in use' cover: http://www.garvinindustries.com/weatherproof-boxes-covers/weatherproof-covers/one-gang-in-use-covers/wiu1v
These covers are important where you plan to leave things 'plugged in.'
Does It Matter?
I've mentioned several details. It's only fair for you to ask if they are worth worrying about.
The box used is made of aluminum or zinc. In either case, concrete is highly corrosive to them; that's why you want to space them off the wall and allow for drainage behind them. There's even a code provision that requires such a space. Filling it with putty defeats the purpose.
Corrosion within such boxes is a real concern, as trapped moisture has nothing to do but to rust your mounting screws and the insides of your receptacle. That's why you drill a tiny hole in the bottom face of the box. The "WR" marked devices are made to be more corrosion resistant. That's also why you want to use one of those big, fat "bubble" covers if you're going to leave stuff plugged in.
The connector holds the cable in place, and prevents any strain being felt where the wires attach to the receptacle. It also 'fills the hole' and keeps critters out. It's amazing how many times I find boxes that have become either wasp or spider nests.
I've attached some more pictures below. (Click for larger view.)
As I stated in a reply above, this outlet is getting hit with a lot of water every time it rains. It's really worth it for me to get it right. At the same time I have to make sure I don't upset my electrician, so I'm trying to do as much myself as possible.
Unfortunately, there is no WR stamp I can see on the outlet, so that will have to be replaced. As for the bubble cover, can I attach one like you linked to on this box, or will I have to replace the entire box?
When I look at the box, it looks like two boxes joined together. When you write about drilling a hole, should it be on the bottom of the rear box attached to the wall, or the bottom of the front box with the actual outlet? If it's the rear box, should I remove the outlet and make sure I'm not drilling into any wires?
And just to be sure, you are proposing to remove the putty and use no caulk at all? In other words, if I want to seal the hole, it should be from the inside, right?
I wasn't present during the whole installation, but I don't remember a connector like that one. Thanks for pointing that out.
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Note that there's no law saying you can't build a little "hut" over the outlet, to shed the rain.
That would be too simple and straightforward. Where's your sense of adventure?
Seriously, that's a great solution. The hut would have to to be flashed with the siding, though. That seems like a lot more work. It could just be my imagination. Anytime I hear "siding" and "flashing" in the same sentence, I get nervous.
Not hard to work a bit of flashing under the edge of the lap. Doesn't have to go far -- just a quarter inch is plenty.
You're Doing Well
The cover in the newest set of pictures is perfectly acceptable. "Bubble" covers are intended to be used with "standard" boxes; they're often of different make than the box they go on.
Yes, remove the putty. The foam you have applied to the hole should be all the seal you need.
Want a gold star? Anchor that cable with a staple where it passes through the wall.
The 'weep hole' is usually made on the bottom face in any convenient spot (ie: where the metal is thinnest). You put in on the piece that's attached to the wall. For the cover in your picture, that second "box" is really part of the cover. It's one of many designs available.
Here's the deal: Moisture WILL enter the box itself, no matter what you do. If nothing else, it will enter as humidity in the air, through the plug prong openings - then condense inside the cooler box and accumulate over time. By adding a weep hole, you help keep that inside moisture level down. This reduces the amount of corrosion.
Likewise, I wouldn't worry too much about rain. The box and cover will keep rain out. The space behind the box is there specifically to let any rain that gets back there to drain away. With the wall set somewhat behind the siding, that seam won't see direct rainfall. Any moisture that manages to get inside the wall ... well, that wall is bare concrete- the moisture will go right back out, through the concrete.