Replies

1. 
   Mongo_ | Dec 06, 2000 11:54pm | #1

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   Rain screens are typically furred out over the studs...every 16 or 24" oc.

   Backpriming...expensive? Hmm.

   Realize that with a rainscreen the process (and cost of installation) doesn't end with just the inexpensive furring strips.

   All window, door, and corner board trim will have to be furred out as well. This essentially makes your walls thicker...now you need interior jamb extensions to compensate for that thickness. Throw in a little rake/facia/soffit detailing...

   I think there'd be more labor and material expense in a rainscreen that in backpriming. How about factory primed, all 4 sides? Or ditching the spun poly housewrap for tar paper?

   Rainscreen or not, if your going to coat the front, you should coat the backside as well.

1. 
   Jeff_Clarke_ | Dec 07, 2000 12:36am | #2

   *John - If you're going to paint cedar you need to do the following (if it's too expensive, don't use cedar, because bleeding i mustbe dealt with):(1) Sand the siding lightly to remove the factory mill glaze(2) Prime with Muralo's Cedar Solutions Ultimate latex primer (formerly 'Stain Stopper')(3) Prime with a good oil-based primer (I like Val-Spar Prep-Step, there are others)(4) Paint normally with two coats of latex. Do not leave primer exposed more than 4 weeks.Wait for good weather if you can or find some heated space - you shouldn't skip these steps. Around here backpriming is i veryexpensive.I don't like factory priming because it skips the above. Tar paper over Tyvek - yeah, any day.Jeff

1. 
   david_thodal | Dec 07, 2000 07:30am | #3

   *John, When you speak of water damage are you more concerned with moisture from behind the siding or exterior moisture, ie. rain and snow? I like natural wood siding and have used cedar and pine (eastern white pine) and have found a good penetrating oil is an excellent solution. And except when specified by others have never bothered to back prime and have noticed less problems such as splitting and warping when I have not back primed.Several considerations. One and I think most important is to use good quality siding to begin with. The better quality of wood, the better end product. If I am siding over plywood sheathing, and/or using a rabbited bevel siding, furring out the walls with 1/4inch lath helps moderate moisture on both sides of the siding. I also use red rosin paper as my wind paper and am convinced it is the superior product to tyvek and even felt paper. Going back to the penetrating oil finish, I think the important thing to do is keep the siding from drying out. Sunlight and air wll do this over time, even on unexposed areas. Once the wood drys out, the wetting/ drying cycle accelerates deterioration. By using a penetrating oil finish you replenish the natuaral oils that dry out, and keep the wood more stable. I like Behr's Natural sealer. Three coats seem to hold up well in the Montana climate. I recoat about every three to five years.Just some thoughts. walk good david

1. 
   Jeff_Clarke_ | Dec 07, 2000 04:04pm | #4

   *i I also use red rosin paper as my wind paper ...David - red rosin is infamous for holding moisture.Jeff

1. 
   david_thodal | Dec 07, 2000 09:34pm | #5

   *Jeff, Holding water or absorbing water? I find that by absorbing moisture that is trapped under the siding, and dispersing it over a greater area allows more rapid evaporation and thus drying. Wood will absorp water, but the rosin has better wicking properties, allowing for better drying. The problem with the current generation of housewraps is they do not absorb moisture. If vapour, it will pass thru, but how often is the housewrap at or above the dew point. Vapour passing thru the wall that condenses into liquid will not pass thru housewrap. It is absorbed by the sheathing. I would rather have the rosin paper absorb the moisture, disperse it to allow quicker evaporation thru the siding. Another reason to use a penetrating oil finish as it allows better transfer of moisture than many of the popular exterior finishs.Exterior sources of moisture should be kept to a minimum from reaching the sheathing/paper by proper siding installation. The primary purpose of house wrap/paper is not to prevent water from reaching the sheathing. just some thoughts walk good david

2. 
   christopher_lindsley | Dec 09, 2000 07:24pm | #6

   *am searching for a dark solid hardwood flooring material. my clients want traditional t&g strip flooring but can be persuaded to alternative materials if the right one is offered. is there a chocolate colored fooring out there? or has anyone stained a typical wood like white oak a chocolate color with good results?

3. 
   david_thodal | Dec 10, 2000 06:53am | #7

   *Christopher, First off, you would be better off starting your own discussion rather than jumping in on this one. You would probably receive more and quicker responses. Also there is a question of protocol; some people simply can't stand it when you fly off on a tangent from an existing discussion.But back to your question. I personally dislike staining flooring. It will eventual wear thin in traffic areas creating a noticable difference. Also if you stain a floor, it looks like a stained floor. There are several readily available choices of wood that would make staining unnecessary. The first is walnut. I would go with a #1 or #2 grade. If you want an even colouration throughout, you will need to be selective in the pieces you choose. Another choice is cherry. A third choice though a little spendy and maybe hard to find would be teak. If a little verigation is exceptable, grain that flows from light to dark, look at hickory or a #2 oak. Again careful selection can yield a dark grain that will look great when finished bright.I would suggest you buy a few square feet of the flooring and make a sample up to show the client. It is always helpful with the visuals. These are a few possibilities> If you get into some tropical hardwoods, you have alot more possibilities at a much higher cost.walk good david

4. 
   Matt_Kehoe | Dec 11, 2000 09:14pm | #8

   *I am scheduled to refinish a 200 year old floor in an attic. The floor has never been touched since it was first built. It appears to be white pine (under heavy ground in dirt/dust). I do not want to over sand the floor to remove all of the wear patterns as they add interest and "character", but I would like to sand it to clean it up. I would also like to put a finish on the floor that is somewhat in keeping with an old house. I am in no way trying to (nor do I want to) do a historically accurate restoration, but I will find it difficult to paint a floor that is mostly comprised of 15" and wider boards and will most likely seal it with a clear finish. My question(I); is it a good idea to sand it a bit and what is the best choice of finish to keep an "old look" and avoid the heavy duty modern polyurethane look?

5. 
   Matt_Kehoe | Dec 11, 2000 09:18pm | #9

   *Yes, this question should not be linked to this section. It went here by mistake

2. 
   John_Merrill-Steskal | Dec 11, 2000 09:18pm | #10

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   I am trying to decide the best and most economical way to protect cedar siding from water damage. Back priming is an option but expensive and currently difficult to do given the cold winter weather. We have been interested in just doing a rain-screen to lift the siding away from the tyvek-covered siding, but the contractor we are working with thinks that this will cause the siding to warp. Is this a real concern? If not, at what distances should one space out the strips of wood that lift the siding away from the house?