I’m wondering how well a PT parralam actually holds up to weather. I’m looking to put a cantilevered landing from a second floor to grade without posts. Stairs will be fastened parallel to the building/perpendicular to the landing. I’ve used them once before but, about 4 years ago, but can’t get back to see how well they hold up. The architect simply drew enough to get an approval but the town BI is a part timer in hick central. Even hough liability doesn’t fall on me I’d rather do it right.
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That original post is strange. The cantilever is a bumpout, the stairs essentially hang off it.
Since this is a secondfloor away from the ground, the need for PT is minimal in my thinking. I would paint it, and then use ice and water shield or roll out some lead over the top of a regular paralam. That would be less expense and actually safer than having that copper running back into the interior.
That design is a major concern though. Having beams of any kind protrude from a house is ALWAYS a maintanance nightmare. It will wick water in, and allow heat energy out.
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I will flash he tops anyway, but even though it's a small landing, is it really any different than a bumpout or a cantilevered bay?? I only ask because you raised a good point about the heat loss.
is it any different?Yes
and noYou are punching holes through the exterior envelope. With a room cantilaevered, the beams are enclosed in a soffit and insulation package. With a deck, it is totally open
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I guess with all my pontifications, I failed to answer the original question.
Sorry
A paralam will stand up fine if painted, whether PT or regular, but you should be sure to select paint that is compatable with the correr treatment.
Lots of woods that do not rot such as PT, white oak, or IPE` will still suffer degradation in other ways when not protected.
UV rays will dry the wood and open the pores.
Water that seeps in can freeze and expand, leading to fractrues/checking that grows worse with each cycle.
So protect it from sun and rain one way or another
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Piffin
I recently, foolishly left about 14" of an LVL ridge beam exposed on an addition i built on my own home. It is tucked right up below the roof deck so it is not completely exposed but it aint curled up in front of the fireplace either.
My solution was to wrap it in thin aluminum that had a factory applied finish on it. wrapped bottom 3" first then covered sides w/ joints only at bottom and sealed w/ caulk. Do you think this will still wick in moisture?
I know i should have cut it off prior to laying the roof deck but i loved the way it looked like a beam on a barn that i could hook a pulley up to. Didnt say i was a great builder, just another dreamer having fun.
That is under the roof, so I don't imagine it leading water in.But depending on whether the rafters are top bearing or if the beam is buried in the insulated, vapour-stopped cialing/roof assembly, I might be concerned with it leading warm moist air out to condense behind that coil stock.
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