Pull Out Pantry Cabinet Advice Needed.
Hello All,
Trying to make the rinky-dink kitchen in our new place work for us and we think that a pull out pantry cabinet woulf be very helpful in fitting our 10# of cr@p in a 5# sack.
I’ve got a nook that measures 18.5″ wide by 27″ deep by 79″ tall. We would like to put a pantry cabinet in it.
A place for our trash, recycling, and probably canned goods and what not.
I’ve been all around the web and dang am I confused.
It looks like I’ll have to pay someone to either custom make it or do it myself.
Does anybody have any advice on which hardware to use, which to avoid, or where I can get one made for a reasonble price?
This system from Haefle looks great but ouch..the price.
Wow even the 17″ wide shelves are $136…
Then I guess I’d have to figure out how to attach my custom width shelves to it?
Do I need a super expensive beefy frame like the hafele? What about something that has wheels in the bottom?
Thanks,
Replies
The guy who did our kitchen just made up tray-style drawers and mounted them with standard drawer slides. I think he charged about $50 a pop for the drawers. The only "special" item he used were some plastic vertical standoffs for the slides, so they would clear the face frames -- he mounted one front and one rear on each side, then attached the slides to those.
So wait
Where the shelfs just open?
I like the idea of the whole thing being hidden behind a big cabinet door.
Course the PO's took the sink door with the cabinet info with them so I don't know how I'm going to get matching cabinets...
You can scrimp now on the hardware if you wish.
And you can cobble something together with wheels etc and it might work very well.
What you get with the good hardware is a system of drawer glides that work under the heavy load of canned goods.
With 27 deep, you'll be able to put a shit load of stuff on those shelves. For a complete pull out contraption, I'd opt for good weight rated hardware-the wheels that can take the weight will be chore to make operate smoothly and straight coming out of a closet.
Individual pull out trays will work just fine-remmeber you can only view so high on those - don't use pull outs above eye level. The standard pull out tray hardware offered in stock cabs will do just fine-full extension. A pair won't run you 176 dollars.
I might question putting garbage in there, but it's your decision.
Best of luck.
[JOBSITE WORK]
Funny stuff, Calvin.
I modified a pantry cabinet recently, took out a bunch of adjustable shelves, made and installed pull-out trays out of melamine and installed them on Accuride 3832 slides. One side of each stack is installed on the drawer slide spacers that Dan is talking about, to clear the doors. These are about 25" deep. With shelves a LOT of stuff becomes inaccessible at the back. With the pullouts they can pack the thing to the gills.
I have installed Hafele pantry systems in a couple of kitchen remodels. You should really build the cabinet to the specific size dictated by the hardware, so it works best if you can lay out the kitchen from scratch. Those systems are nice, but really expensive.
Nice.
I like the stepped up in the back trays, gives stability for the taller stuff when you do a quick pull or slide back firmly.
I installed a cabinet by maybe Kraftmaid that was a narrow "pantry". The stacked adj. shelves were hung off a center panel (front to back). The whole thing pulled out, with door. Massive strong drawer glides on the bottom, pretty strong glides on top. Was very stable, but heavy pulling out as one big unit. Cab width was maybe 15".
Still works.
Drawers
I have the exact same pantry and would like to add drawers like you show in your pic. I have all the slides and the melamine. Could you take a couple more photos of the drawers themselves so I can see the construction. They look perfect for this type pantry. Thanks so much. Mike
Don't have photos
but I tried to upload the PDF files of the parts, and the forum crashed.
So... these are made out of 3/4" melamine with 1/4" melamine bottoms. The sides are either 4" or 7-1/2" high, and taper down to 2" at the front, with the taper taking up the forward third of the side. The fronts are wide enough to conceal the sides... if the cabinet opening is 24", the drawer body is 22-15/16" and the front is 23-3/4". In this case, the cabinet did not have hinges designed to move the doors out of the way of interior drawers, so I had to use stand-offs to clear the drawers. There are internal dividers in them that are adjustable on shelf pins, with dadoes in the ends of the dividers so they slide down over the pins. These were all assembled with Festool domino tenons. The slides are Accuride 3832SC.
Thanks so much for the info. This is just what I needed. I own a CNC router so I am going to make all the shelves on the machine. Should go quick.
I had mine
cut, banded, grooved, and drilled for the dividers by a CNC shop. They could have drilled for dowel assembly also. There's no way I would want to cut stuff like this out myself, and I can't do the quality of edgebanding that they do either.
Garbage?
What's your concern with the garbage?
If its in a can that has a lid with a decent seal?
Hmmm.. shoot I just realized that there really isn't a good place yet in the kitchen to store all my baking supplies...
OK
Concern? Well, garbage behind a door when you got your hands full...............
of garbage.............
No concern at all if you can deal with it.
Good seal on a garbage can (for daily (hourly) use) in a closet with a closed door?..................
no concern at all.
Recycle bin?
stale beer, etc, catfood cans...............
in a closet with a door?
no concern at all.
Putting all that in there without an extra hand to open the closed door?
no concern at all.
Okay
So what you're saying is that I need some sort of wave my hand in front of a magic eye thing and then the pantry auto opens and the trash can lid pops up too?
I can do that! I've got a couple 125# rated linear actuators(I got them junkhound cheap as surplus) and all kinds of sensors...
But seriously, all the in the kitchen garbage can solutions I see have the can in like the enclosed sink base cab? Or in some sort of magically huge corner cab with a big lazy susan where you have the garbage, and recycling on it, again in an enclosed cabinet.
This idea is not my first choice but the kitchen is so small I just can't figure where to put a decent sized can that won't be totally in the way?
What I'm saying is.........
I wouldn't put the garbage with the food, tupper ware, or cooking utensils.
What the heck is wrong with a foot actuated garbage can? You don't need to pull out, open or bend over to magically stick it in a corner cab.
But, you know what you got and what you want to do.
So, be my guest.
Best of luck on the project.
We've got the garbage in a pull-out next to the sink. This is what SWMBO wanted when we had the kitchen refaced. It works fine. It's a two-pail pullout with garbage in front and recycling behind. No lids. The other side of the cab contains sugar, flour, and some pots and Tupperware -- no problems, and my wife is the type who is very quick to complain about odors.
The garbage can is kept in under the kitchen sink in millions of homes in the US. And if it smells you don't want it in the kitchen at all -- it goes out to the trash can immediately.
Fine
Hope he sticks it in the closet with the food and other stuff and enjoys it as much as millions of americans.
Buddy!
I'm just trying to figure it out.
I have nice chrome step on the pedal and the lid pops up trash can now and it works just fine.
It's just totally in the way and I can't see anywhere else to put it other than in this alcove with a bunch of other stuff that I can't figure out where to put also.
Lee Valley (and others)
Lee Valley has a nice hardware catalog. Check their web page, and take a look at what is available. YOu can download the instruction sheets for most of their parts to see how involved the installation is, and what allowances you need to make in the dimensions of something you are building to accept them.
There a quite a few solutions. Which you pick depends on your finances, skills, and available time. I'd recommend that you actually knock together a built in cabinet. Check out the ready to assemble kits at HomeDesperate and Lowers. If you have some basic tools, it isn't too hard to change the width on them by trimming all the parts that go cross wise.
Drawers/trays can be made up by most cabinet shops for not too much money in any dimensions you want. There is a large array of available hardware at various price points. Some of HomeDesperates sell 8-ftX30-inchX3/4-inch malamine panels that are predrilled with 32-mm system holes, which would let you do a white cabinet fairly fast. Like I said lots of options out there.
I highly recommend slideout trays. I had a "pantry" in the old house that was 26-inches deep, 42-inches wide, and 80-inches tall.
I built a dozen shallow, (3-inches deep) drawers, with 5-inch tall backs, and mounted them with Accuride full extension slides on two 3/4-inch plywood strips, run vertically, to get them offset for the door frame. The plywood strips were predrilled with 5-mm holes at 32-mm on center to comply with the "euro" standard, so it was easy to mount the drawers level.
The top one was down about 16-inches, so rarely/seasonally used small appliances, like the icecream freezer, could be stored there. The slide out shelf. made it lots easier to get to the things in the back, even though I had to use the step stool to do it.
that sounds like a good way to go.
I don't think the $700 option is in the cards.
Full extension slides and the pantry cabinet broken up into at least 2 sections.
One for garbage-recycling and the others for maybe small kitchen appliances or canned goods...
A cabinet door covering drawers makes access a two-motion process--same for closing it up again. If you have two doors enclosing the drawers, then it's a three-motion access/closing. It gets to be a pain when just pulling out a drawer is so direct and obvious.
Make two cabinet units (carcasses) that will stack to fill the height of your rough opening. Have the lower one as tall as will be a comfortable height for the highest drawer--maybe 5- or 5-1/2-feet. Using ordinary full-extension slides, size the drawers according to your needs. Let the drawers be more like trays, without deep sides, and install the drawer fronts with an angled side brace to resist the leverage of the tall fronts.
The upper cabinet can be a simple cavity behind door(s), with or without shelves, as a space for large items like roasting pans, stock pots, seldom-used appliances, etc,
Or, it could house pullout racks for canned goods, spices, etc. Rather than use expensive purpose-made hardware, make one or two very tall, narrow "drawers"--they would actually be built as racks to allow vertical access to the cans and bottles. If the slides were to be mounted on the left side, for example, you would buy two sets of side-mounted, full-extension slides, but you would use only the two left-side slides--one low and one high on the single tall rack.
If you want two such slideout racks, then the two right-side slides could be mounted on the right side rack. With a 17"-wide space, two tall racks would be the most that would usably fit.
A simple arrangement of 2 wood strips on the top will serve as a support to resist lateral pressure that would otherwise tend to pull against the upper slide--a pressure that the slide itself is not designed to resist.
Yep
I agree that the cabinet door covering a pull out is not the way to go.
I want the door attached to the pull out so its just one motion.
I think everyone is right and that I don't need to buy the high dollar pantry hardware.
I also think that seperating the space vertically into two different pull-outs is the way to go.
The bottom and more frequently used pull out will house the trash and recycling.
The top and less frequently used pull out will be probably small kicthen appliances like mixers, waffle irons, that kind of thing.
I think that basically what I need is two base cabinets of the correct width one stacked on top of the other with smaller simpler pull out harware from a place like rev-a-shelf.
When I switched to thinking about it like this it opened up a lot of possibilites as there are a lot of off the shelf garbage pull out hardware.
At least, thats the plan so far.