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Pulling 18 gauge nails

caseyr | Posted in Tools for Home Building on August 8, 2008 12:13pm

I have not been able to pull 18 gauge nails, particularly the longer ones, from any wood that has a density greater than balsa wood. My carpenter’s pincers inevitably just end up snipping them off so that a sharp numb sticks up just far enough to draw blood if you brush against it. I have also tried Vise-Grips locked on to nail with a crowbar to try and lift the Vise-Grip out along with the nail. No luck, the nail just snapped off. Is there anything short of digging the nail out to remove it? I usually end up snipping the nail off, trying to pound it in with a hammer (usually unsuccessfully), and then grinding it off and filling in the divot caused by the grinder.

What are the favorite tips and tools to try and get these things out?

(I did a Breaktime search but didn’t find any magical solutions.)

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Replies

  1. DonCanDo | Aug 08, 2008 01:08am | #1

    I saw this tool in action:

    http://www.nailextractor.com/index.html

    It really works.  If this tool doesn't work, I don't think anything will.  I came close to buying it, but I don't usually pull that many nails.  18 gauge is small enough that I usually just hammer them flat right before I throw the wood on the scrap pile.

    Why are you pulling 18 gauge nails anyway?  If it's to re-use a piece of trim, then pull it from the back or cut it flush with a wire nipper.

    1. MSA1 | Aug 08, 2008 02:32am | #3

      Cool tool. I didnt check, can they be bought locally or only from that site? 

       

       

      Family.....They're always there when they need you.

      1. Shoeman | Aug 08, 2008 02:41am | #4

        I have one and really like it.  Bought mine on line direct from the manufacturer when I first saw them - about a year or two ago.

        Bought some for a few people that saw mine and wanted one.  They were available locally here at 7 Corners Hardware in St. Paul.  They also have a list of dealers on the website linked above.  There are a few dealers in MI.  Not sure what is close to you.

        I recommend getting one either way.

         

         

      2. User avater
        BillHartmann | Aug 08, 2008 03:47am | #6

        http://www.nailextractor.com/FindaDistributor.htmlModern Hardware1500 Kalamazoo Ave SEGrand Rapids, MI 49507Tel: (616) 241-2655McBain Building Products
        302 North Pine StreetMc Bain, MI 49657
        Tel: (231) 825-2110Performance Line Tool Center
        130 South Telegraph Rd.
        Waterford, MI. 48328
        Tel: (248) 681-6000Performance Line Tool Center
        26772 Dequindre Rd.
        Warren, MI. 48091
        Tel: (586) 558-8665
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        A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.

      3. rasconc | Aug 08, 2008 04:01am | #7

        Duluth trading, search extractor.

        http://www.duluthtrading.com/store/home.aspx?navlocation=topFor those who have fought for it Freedom has a flavor the protected will never know.

        1. webby | Aug 08, 2008 05:13am | #8

          Most people laugh at me but alot of times I  have to pull nails from the back of trim to keep from damaging the face.

          This inclues panel, finish, hand nails and air gun nails. often my tool of choice is a pair of nine or ten inch channeloks. Grip the nail and roll it right up the curved head. I have been claening up five or six hundred board feet of knotty pine salvaged paneling. Mostly with channeloks.

          Some call them pump pliers, some call them arc joint pliers.

          I have tried diagonals and carpenters nippers, but they cut the nail to often. If peple give me to much @3$@ over the chanelloks,  I look at them and I say how can you pul something with a tool that is designed to cut?

          Eighteen gauge is tough though. I often break them off and set the remainder and putty the hole.

          Webby 

           

          Edited 8/7/2008 10:13 pm ET by webby

    2. caseyr | Aug 09, 2008 02:59am | #13

      Thanks, that look kinda like the type of tool I was hoping would be recommended. I have a large tool box of various types of nail removers and I think I will add one of these to the collection.

  2. Stilts | Aug 08, 2008 01:29am | #2

    A huge chunk of the cabinet work we do is 1/4" refacing, which we use 18 gauge nailers for.  Anytime I'm training someone I always tell them not to ever pull the nails if they don't have to, they always end up breaking.  And if you try and snip them, they always stick out. 

    The best way to deal with them is to grab ahold of them fairly close to the wood with a pair of needlenose, and push back and forth in the direction of the grain.  They always break off below the wood surface, then you just putty the hole, which is usually not much larger than the nail hole would have been.  Just be careful not too go against the grain because the hole ends up huge. 

  3. Pelipeth | Aug 08, 2008 03:12am | #5

    I've been doing it for ALOT of yrs. with Chanelock Bull Nose plyers/cut offs. It ends up being something called finesse - touch. You just over time get a feel for whats gonna work pressure wise. If it breaks off, set the head with the Stanley RED nail setter and fill the hole.

  4. byhammerandhand | Aug 08, 2008 05:16am | #9

    I've had mine for a bit over a year. I use it for everything from pulling upholstery staples to removing larger nails. It's in my go-to kit.

    It is quite clever in that the harder you push/pull the tighter it grabs the fastener.

  5. MisterT | Aug 08, 2008 05:18am | #10

    thextractor works good but on 18ga gun brads it will cut instead of pull because the "teeth" on the jaws are quite sharp.

    I have some asymmetric pullers (Lee Valley) that I filed a small notch in the jaws so it wont cut the brad but will get a 360∘ grip

    .
    .
    "After the laws of Physics, everything else is opinion"

    -Neil deGrasse Tyson
    .
    .
    .
    If Pasta and Antipasta meet is it the end of the Universe???

  6. gordsco | Aug 08, 2008 05:34am | #11

    It's a feel thing.

    If the brad isn't moving on the first pull bend back and forth with the grain.

    If the pin is too short to grab, I whack it back and forth with the side of a chisel or hammer or whatever is available.

    The pin will snap off just below the surface like Stiltz said.

    "Perfect is the enemy of Good."    Morrison

  7. [email protected] | Aug 08, 2008 07:23am | #12

    I use a pair of 10-inch pump pliers.

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