Replies

1. 
   joeh | Feb 19, 2009 04:12am | #1

   Shop vac and a big drill bit, screwdriver or whatever to dig loose the rotted stuff.

   I have a 1" bit welded to a 3' piece of drill rod I use so I can stand up while drilling.

   Depends on how rotten they are, but it all comes out eventually with the vacuum and the new posts drop right in.

   Joe H

1. 
   bayendeavors | Feb 19, 2009 04:18am | #2

   Your saying just leave the old concrete plug under the slab and pop in a new post? How will the post be stable if I have no room to pour new concrete?

1. 
   calvin | Feb 19, 2009 04:24am | #3

   So whats the question?

   Remove the wood w/o disturbing the slab

   or miraculously remove the wood and the concrete that used to surround them in the holes w/o damaging the slab?A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

    

1. 
   calvin | Feb 19, 2009 04:25am | #4

   and remember, I'm saying this with a #### eatin' grin on my face.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

    

2. 
   joeh | Feb 19, 2009 08:12pm | #13

   Try it, see what you get.

   If loose, maybe saw a slot into the bottom of the post and put a wedge in. Pound the post in and wedge will expand post.

   Don't make this any more difficult, 12" core bit rental? Why not jackhammer up and replace the whole slab?

   It's a fence, not a piano.

   Joe H

1. 
   bayendeavors | Feb 20, 2009 05:59am | #15

   Didn't bid it for pad replacement. Pad is about 10x12

2. 
   Poolman | Feb 19, 2009 04:32am | #5

   Cut old posts flush, overdrill with 10-12 inch core bit, dig out, add gravel, set new treated posts and repour

   untill the circumstances change, my answer will remain the same...
1. 
   bayendeavors | Feb 19, 2009 05:25am | #6

   sold. Is a 12"core bit usually found and rental centers?

1. 
   Poolman | Feb 19, 2009 06:16am | #12

   bit and drill at most good rental ctr's.  watch out for how thy charge for the bit!  we buy ours, but we make a lot of holes too!  I'm also concerned about posts rotting again, but if it's a fence, I can see where you are after the lateral stability.untill the circumstances change, my answer will remain the same...

3. 
   sledgehammer | Feb 19, 2009 05:30am | #7

   Are you gonna set the new posts in concrete?

1. 
   bayendeavors | Feb 19, 2009 05:30am | #8

   yes sir

4. 
   klhoush | Feb 19, 2009 05:35am | #9

   Bolt a 8' 2x6 to the side of the post about 6" up . Use only one bolt so it can pivot. Put a block of wood next to the post for a fulcrum and see if you can lever the post up.

   Put some epoxy in the hole and shim to plumb if the new post is loose in the hole.

   I no longer use concrete in my post holes, just compacted gravel or dirt. It's too hard to remove concrete. The posts rot in the concrete anyway. If the dirt won't hold your post, it won't hold your concrete either.

   OB

1. 
   bayendeavors | Feb 19, 2009 05:40am | #10

   Yeah I thought about Teetering it out with some blocks or wedging a 4x4 under a bolted on 2x4 and throwing my 250 pound arse on the other side. Whatever makes me not breath as heavy. Any recommendations on a good epoxy

1. 
   ponytl | Feb 19, 2009 06:12am | #11

   an old auto "bumper jack" will usually lift em right out...

   use alot of liquid nails when you slide the new one in...

   p

5. 
   K1500 | Feb 19, 2009 09:14pm | #14

   If drilling and prying don't work, you could always burn them out with a torch or some thermite.

1. 
   Scott | Feb 20, 2009 07:19am | #16

   Don't burn them if they're CCA pressure treated though. Arsenic hazard.Scott.

6. 
   Matt | Feb 20, 2009 02:59pm | #17

   Excuse for another tool purchase?