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Pump Jack setup for 12/12 w/ 2′ overhang

AXE | Posted in Construction Techniques on May 8, 2005 05:37am

Folks.

Been a while since I’ve posted here.  I will try to post some pictures of the progress here shortly. 

I need to stage my house for siding.  I was thinking about investing in the alum-a-pole system and just keep it for the rest of my life so I could use it to clean and restain the siding (red cedar shingles), one side of the house every year.

At any rate, I’m curious about the proper way to do it.  I’ve read the OSHA goodies and I think I got the basics down.  I have 2′ overhangs on my house, so if I stage the poles outside the rakes, and then have the walk planks outside that, I’ll be rather far from the sidewall (28-30″), which I know is an OSHA violation (and just common sense).  If I put the walk planks inside the poles, I’ll be a good distance from the wall, but I’ll need more poles and shorter planks so I can get to all parts of the sidewall.

I’ll be using this setup to install the rake trim, soffit, sidewall shingles and window trim.  With those deep overhangs, do I need to setup the walk planks first on the outside (to install the rake trim) and then on the inside to do the sidewall work?

I’m still mulling all this over, and trying to understand how it will all really happen.  So don’t jump on me (yet).  I’m trying to get it safe.  The highest peak on my house is a little over 30′.

MERC.

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Replies

  1. Ambrose | May 08, 2005 06:55am | #1

    HI not sure where your at, but I just listed my Alum A Poles and staging for sale in the classified section. Im in Chicago.   Ambrose

  2. seeyou | May 08, 2005 02:45pm | #2

    and then have the walk planks outside that

    I'm kinda new to the alum-a-pole stuff, but I don't think you ever want to put your walkboards on the outside of the poles. In my first time using the system, I was replacing gutter and fascia as well as painting the cornice and body of the house.  To work on the fascia/gutter, I setup with the poles clearing the gutter by a foot or so ( I also have 2 ft overhangs ) which put the walkboard a little further than the OSHA required 14" from the wall. I have a guardrail kit which I should have installed, but did not.  When I got ready to paint the wall, I simply moved the braces further up the roof, replumbed the poles and went to work. Took maybe 10 mins to readjust the setup. I love this stuff.

    STOP, DROP,  ..............ROCK 'N' ROLL

    1. Snort | May 08, 2005 05:11pm | #3

      Hey DJ, dang, you still workin' on that place?The aluma pole system is pretty pricey just for occasional use. Have you tried Associated Scaffolding over in Durham? They rent and sell all kinds of stuff to get to high places. Pretty cheap, too.Man, I'm still trying to get over to see you...this scaffold setup might be just the lure<G>PS I've got a 40' ladder you're more than welcome to borrow, if you can lift it, ha! Don't worry, we can fix that later!

      1. AXE | May 09, 2005 05:23am | #7

        Yeah, I'm still working on it.  You really should come over and see it sometime.

        I know the alum a pole is expensive, but I think it would cost me $10k in labor to trim and side the rest of the house.  So who cares if I blow $3k on stuff to do it myself?  At least that is how I look at it.  And like I said in my first message, I can keep it to to clean and restain the cedar shingles, one side per year.

        MERC.

        1. stonefever | May 09, 2005 06:32am | #8

          How does one use these pole jack systems when attempting to service an existing home having brick veneer, cement roof tiles, and gutters? 

          Where does one attach the support brackets, both up top as well as mid span to keep the struture from wobbling?

          I've got my windows coming up to be painted.  And I'm dealing with uneven grades.  Regular scaffolding would need individual screw legs and my runs would require 2 to 3 stacks of scaffolding to reach everything.  The setup and takedown of such seems excessive for the job.

          Do to fencing, I can't get a lft around the back of the house... 

          1. MikeSmith | May 09, 2005 12:43pm | #9

            for your job, i'd use pipe staging and planks..  but painters would just work off laddersMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

  3. Faulted1 | May 08, 2005 05:19pm | #4

    First, Aluma a pole is great stuff!

    You always put the walkboards between the house on the poles (in other words, on the inside).  You adjust the distance from the wall with the mounting brackets.  If the brackets are parallel to the ground you are the max distance from the wall.  Slide the brackets up or down the pole to lessen the distance between the house and pole.

    FF

    1. MikeSmith | May 08, 2005 05:43pm | #5

      dj... the wall brackets are the correct length to keep your poles and platforms where they belong....

      if you can't go high enough with your brackets on the wall then you set the brackets on the roof  lifting a shingle  ( with asphalt shingles ) and screwing the bracket to the roof sheathing / framing

       

      the walk-plank always goes inside.. the work-platform goes outsideMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

      1. AXE | May 09, 2005 05:20am | #6

        Thanks all for the replies.  I am going to look at the alum-a-pole as well as some other options (like renting a lift).  I think however, the alum-a-pole will be worthwhile since I can set it up and leave it there for 20 years if that is how long it takes me to get the siding on.

        I'll post some pictures of the house tomorrow.  We spent the winter doing hardscaping in the yard and pouring new driveway.

        MERC.

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