I am new to using a pump jack. I will be siding my house and the side walls are @ 22 feet to the soffit/overhang. My dilemma is that I need to reside the gables above the mentioned overhang/gutter. How would you set up the pump jacks to clear the overhang and get the stages up that high? Oh…the overhang is @ 24″wide.
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confused.....
A picture might help make this more clear.
Is this overhang a continuous horizontal projection below the gable end?
I'm guessing he has dormers up there, or some such.
A Picture
Hope this picture adds some clarity....
That's called a pediment.
You're gonna have to set the jacks on the poles higher than the pediment before you lift them up.
This is a situation that's probably better suited for pipe scaffolding.
Scott
You'd need pump poles (not wood I would hope) that would take you up and over that overhang. Then you'd have the pleasure of securing them (the brackets can be moved around up/down to get the proper purchase so you don't keel over) However, as you go higher, you run out of fascia or roof...........and room to reach out to the poles.
Then of course, you get to lug the pick up and over and onto the platform brackets.
Best of luck.
A decent-sized chainsaw with a demo chain would take care of that overhang just fine.
I would consider the following:
Use the pumps to get you up to the pendiment. When you are done, take the pumps down and use ladders with ladder jacks to support your plank/pic for the remainder.
I've run into a similar situation a time or two. There's a couple ways to deal with this, depending on how tall your posts need to be to work the higher gable and weather you're using wood poles or alluminum.
Here's the key. I would use at least two sets of standoff brackets on each post, maybe three.
Set up to side the wall below the overhang (with standoff brackets attached to the overhang) but ensure the posts are long enough to run maybe 24" above the upper roof.
Side the wall below the overhang.
Once you get to the top of the wall, attach a standoff bracket below your jack (to the wall you just sided) and remove the one above you (that is attached to the overhang).
Now, it's entirely possible you planned ahead enough to fold up the jack and jack up above that overhang (maybe from a ladder) in which case you do exactly that, attaching a standoff bracket to the roof edge when you get up there.
Another way would be to fold the jack up, rotate the post 90 degrees and jack up by hand past the overhang.
Another way would be to get up on the roof with another pump jack and slide it down over top of the post.
A third way is to have a second pump jack on each pole when you errect the pole. You can measure how high it needs to be to clear the overhang and position it so that once you errect the pole (with rope and pullys) the standoff bracket and upper jack are already in place. We do this all the time with the standoff brackets, and I did it once to lower alumipole jacks that reached a 4th floor gable (freakin' HEAVY) on a very narrow lot.
There's a lot to be said for alumipoles, and I have some, but it's jobs like yours when I am glad I have several jacks for wooden poles, too.
Whatever you do, get the OSHA booklet on pump jack safety. I think it's free and there are lots of good guidelines for spacing/bracing/planks/guardrails to help you get home safely at the end of each day.
Thanks for the good information but I'm still struggling how to get the stages uo there. Any ideas?
"stages"?
I'm not sure what you mean when you say "stages".
be safe..........
If your poles are too long to be easily stood up from ground level you could use a rope out that window tied to the pole's top. Guy on the ground starts the lift. That part's easy. Brace the poles well before before continuing.
To get your walk boards up [assuming you are using 2X planks] the easy way might be 2 guys with 2 ladders carrying up the boards in unison. There are lots of other more complicated possiblities like going out the window or using pullies and such, which way is best just depends on the details.
If your pump jack set up does not include a work bench or guard rail system at least make a guard rail out of 2X4's.
Bypassing Pump Jack Braces
I used pump jacks about 20 years ago building our house. I am setting them up again for repairs and painting. The roof line is 24 to 26' off the ground.
The first time I used them I hoisted the entire wooden post up in one piece and secured it w/a piece of plywood screwed under the metal roofing into wood. the top of the post went thru a recangular hole in the plywood/ Hoisting the pole up in one piece was a chore.
This time I put up 16' tall posts and braced them at about 12' above the ground. I will add sections to the post as I go up. I am wondering how to bypass the braces. How much vertical spacing between braces.
A situation like yours requires two set ups of the pump jacks. The first one is set up for the lower portion of the wall, pole brackets will be attached to that lower wall under the overhang. When you get that section done, the poles come down and re set up, brackets would be attached to the gable trim on the upper section which will set the pump jacks out to a working distance. If using wood poles, run X bracing attached to the poles below the work area. With aluminum poles, you use additional brackets. Small sections of siding can be left off where brackets will attach and those areas filled in later using a ladder. You may need to finish off the last few rows of siding from a ladder, the peak of the gable may be just out of reach from the pump jacks
Anyone in the business with employees will be required to follow OSHA fall protection standards. This will mean things like using approved planks, the planks will need toe boards front and back, a back rail and end railings are required. These are to help keep folks from walking off the planks when not paying attention and they make you feel more secure. Bottom of pump poles should be secured to substantial stakes or special post anchors. Safety nets are installed if anyone is working below. It's a good idea to tape off the area under the staging and keep everyone and everything out, just in case you drop a hammer. You don't want to fall on saw horses a lumber pile or anything else stacked underneath you. Think safety.
My Situation
Thanks for the input.
I think taking the posts down and putting back up is a lot of work, and by experience very difficult to do by myself as the posts get full length.
I am thinking get extra brackets. Raise pump jacks up to just under first set of brackets. Place extra brackets just under the pump jacks. Remove the first set of brackets and set them higher up, leapfrogging my way to the top. I did plan on having 2 sets of brackets per pole to start with. Now I will have 3. Been my experience that wooden post is much more steady if bracket down below when you are at the top.