What is the technique when you’re trying to make holes in metal track through a wooden subfloor to run pipes and electrical? I’ve tried drilling a ton of small holes around the circumference of the desired hole, then chiseling/knocking out the hole, but it’s messy and leaves a ton of sharp edges.
So I need to make holes for DWV (2.5″), supply lines, and electrical. The method I was going to attempt was to holesaw/drill the subfloor from below, then go at the metal track with either a large step bit (like Greenlee makes) for the smaller holes, and then use a knockout punch or holesaw for the bigger hole.
Is there an easier method that I’m missing?
Z
Replies
anchor the tract to either side of the hole location and then cut the hole with a holesaw....
continue thru the subfloor...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Will the track shift or vibrate that much without extra anchoring around the hole?Z
if the hole saw "grabs" the track... it will move...
65 ways to Sunday...
when ya cut the hole it weakens the track at that location......
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
Edited 2/25/2009 1:47 pm by IMERC
Good stuff! I need to replace my cheapo $2.99 Horrible Freight holesaws, are there any brands in particular that stand up well to dual duty?Z
http://www.lenoxtools.com/enUS/Products/HOLE_SAWS.html
Won't break the bank and will get both jobs done.
Lenox....
bar none....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
bar none...you got that right.you don't want none bar where you be hole sawing.lessen you like broken limbs....
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"After the laws of Physics, everything else is opinion" -Neil deGrasse Tyson
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If Pasta and Antipasta meet is it the end of the Universe???
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according to statistical analysis, "for some time now, bears apparently have been going to the bathroom in the woods."
Remove a 4" section of the track, then drill.
Or use a good hole saw as already suggested...buic
There are several ways.
As mentioned, the hole saw will work but it is noisy and tends to leave a jagged edge. A more refined version known as a hole cutter by Hougen will work better but only go up to 2 1/2" I believe.
Electricians use a GreenLee stud punch. It has handles, slips over the stud, squeeze the handles and it punches about a 1 5/7" hole. It is limited to #20 gauge steel and many apprentices don't realize this.
If you are allowed to plan in advance, punch and die sets will work real well. But you need access to both sides of the hole. Start with a 7/8" hole in the center, stick your draw bolt and die through and then thread the punch on and crank awaywith a 1" ratchet socket or whatever.
For rough work which won't be seen, you can start with a small hole anywhere in the target area and enlarge it with slits cut with aviation snips. Then bend to little slivers of tin out of the way with your bare fingers. This is the method suggest by Johnson & Johnson.
Other methods include the blue wrench and the ever popular .50 caliber machine gun.
~Peter
the barret .50 cal is good for getting a good straight line of holes thru a wall..
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"After the laws of Physics, everything else is opinion" -Neil deGrasse Tyson
.
.
.
If Pasta and Antipasta meet is it the end of the Universe???
.
.
.
according to statistical analysis, "for some time now, bears apparently have been going to the bathroom in the woods."
is this what you have in mind????
http://www.mygreenlee.com/Products/main.shtml?greenlee_category_id=2&product_category=136&adodb_next_page=1
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
Picked up a set of Lenox holesaws this weekend. I didn't realize they're made in East Longmeadow (or Longghetto as we used to call it), MA! I grew up in MA in the Connecticut Valley, and there were a couple of large tool makers in the area (Millers Falls, GTD, etc) that I remember from my childhood. Cool beansAnyhow, those holesaws kick a**. Plowed through the steel track and wood studs. About 1000x better than my HF specials. And the 1 1/2" saw is perfect for using the snap in plastic grommets.Thanks for all the advice. You all rock.Z
For anything 1 3/8" and under, which is the limit of my Greenlee bits, I often use a step drill bit for drilling holes in sheet metal. The Greenlee bits are pretty pricey and the Unibits are perhaps 1/3 less. For just a few holes, the step bits from Amazon.com or Harbor Freight for about $15.00 should work. I usually drill a 1/2" hole with a regular twist drill and then enlarge it with the step bit.
What the other guys said about holesaws plus,
I have a holesaws the same diameter as the plastic grommets. I use it and snap in a grommet to keep the wiring inspector happy
Have a good day
Cliffy