what is smallest ratio, when mixxing mineral spirits/thinner with pure linseed oil, and have the oil able to dry properly, with lesser applicable coats? (ex.- 1 part linseed oil to 3 parts thinner?)
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Says right on the can.
And, turps, not MS.
Pure linseed oil will not dry. Boiled linseed oil should be used; it has metallic driers added. The pure stuff would be analagous to vegetable oil, it'll stay oily/sticky.
I usually mix 50/50 b.l.o. and paint thinner.
Edited 10/18/2004 4:27 pm ET by JACKPLANE
Remember that any rag with linseed oil on it is apt to spontaneously combust!! This isn't a trivial hazard!
Good point about spontaneous combustion of oily rags--lay them out flat outside to dry or put them in an airtight can (or I've heard of putting them in a bucket of water).
OUCH - I tried drying them out in the microwave!
Just kiddin! Chipper
Would that be spontaneous combustion?
INSTANT-taneous....
or....
WOWWWWWW!!!!!
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
that stuff that flies outta yer azz...... is that considered spontaneous combustion?
Only if it ignites by itself. Your clock radio just go off?
What do you mean by dry "properly"? Pure (not boiled) linseed will eventually dry. Takes a couple months if it is thin enough. It will wrinkle badly if too thick. The boiled version has added manganese or cobalt compounds to make it dry faster. Anywhere from a day to a week to dry, depending on temperature. Also dries a bit faster in sunlight. How much to thin depends on what you're doing with it. It does not build well. Need lots of thin coats. If you try to do heavy coats it will wrinkle. I usually thin 1 to 1. How thick the coating gets depends on your technique. Be careful about turpentine. Its a stronger solvent and also will absorb through the skin. Also it has assorted resins and gunk, depending on the grade. If you're rubbing by hand, use mineral spirits.
What are you using it for?
On tool handles, I use it straight, no thinner.
Also use it straight on biannual refinish of some walnut furniture.
using pure linseed oil(1 part) + (3 part) mineral spirits/thinner on all sides of 3/4"in. thick pine beadboard. To be used as finish surface in master bathroom.
Water will penetrate Linseed oil and boiled linseed oil in a second ...if thats any issue. It was used a lot in the past because it was abundant and cheap, but really doesnt serve as a good wood protectant.
I keep some oil from changing the oil in my mower, and use it on garden tools. Handles and blades, both.
Linseed oil is for horses. Ask the vet!
Boiled linseed oil is for painting purposes.
The amount of turpentine that you ratio to the boiled linseed oil determines how soon the mixture will dry.
Hand rubbed finish is best achieved with a 1:1 mix and lots of rubbing for a nice finish.
For tool handles try 1 part BLO to 2 parts turp.....coat and wipe away excess...stand aside till dry....rub with rough cloth...go to work.
Tools feel very good underhand with this coating. Recoat the next year and then as needed.
The only thing better has been clear bartop epoxy.
..................Iron Helix
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Good for preserving your deer antlers too!http://members.fishingworks.com/bo444444/index.cfm