Last friday I finally had the Icynene sprayed in. It was cool to see the first spray and watch it expand like a super fast growing fungus. The installers had drove all the way from Wichita, Kansas to do the job and in the two days previous I only got 4 hours sleep running the wiring, furring out needed walls. I have a garage apartment. All the drywall was taken off.
So far there has been 24 degree nights and I havnt even noticed it. I wake up in the morning and the floors are no longer cold! I had them crawl in the crawlspace and spray the subfloors π For heat so far I have been using a little space heater.
I just want to say that the installer, Ron Schoonover of Preferred Foam Insulation, Inc. is the best! Its hard work and the job was done right π The excess foam was taken off and I got one of those flexible blades for free in case they missed a spot.
After experiencing Icynene, I dont ever see myself using fiberglass again!
Now I gotta put the drywall back up! π
Come summer and its 100+ heat… I am ready! Icynene was best for my situation cuz the vaulted ceiling was only dimensional 2 by 4. And it was an open cell so moisture can still transpire through. I previously tried fiberglass with channels to give an air gap an it still wasn’t very effective, too much air infiltration. It held the heat ok but if I had put the drywall on it would have compressed the fiberglass thereby lowering r-value.
alright I am done writing π
Handyman, painter, wood floor refinisher, property maintenance in Tulsa, OK
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Greetings Pebble,
Mind sharing the $cost involvement on that project?
Thanks
SanchoRon said 'Remember the Alamo' and was no more.
No, I don't mind sharing the cost. I have a 20 by 20 garage apt. with a loft (vaulted ceilings). It is quite roomy for a single person. There was 1560 sq. ft. of walls, floors, and ceiling to spray. The bid came to $2083.00. This is assuming 3 inches in the walls and 4 inches in the ceilings. I think it was 1.20 to 1.40 a square foot. Typically, they don't subtract the windows and doors from the perimeter measurements. I was ok with that and they even more than made up for it on the day of installation by spraying a 2 inch layer around the mechanical room for soundproofing, at no extra cost. I think it was because since they could tell how much foam was being used (through a flowmeter or something), they were able to be generous as they told me it wasn't taking as much foam as they thought it would, particularly in the floors. My involvement was minimal though I stayed and helped out with the clean up since I didn't have anything else to do. The left over foam that comes from trimming is left to the HO to dispose of, wrapped in several bundles of visqueen. Otherwise, that is it... the installers take care of everything. The HO is and should be responsible for creating a good enviroment for the job to proceed smoothly, ie. no furniture in the room and all that. Its messy, all the windows are taped/stapled off by the installers to protect from overspray and so are the floors if needed.I had to remove all the old fiberglass batts and that was kinda not very much fun.Handyman, painter, wood floor refinisher, property maintenance in Tulsa, OK
Sounds like the way to go. Thanks
be the wave of the future
SanchoRon said 'Remember the Alamo' and was no more.
Was all the icyclene the spray for open framing or did you use any of the slow expanding for existing walls and ceilings? Did you get any fiberglass quotes for comparision?
Thanks.
The icynene I used was for open framing. I didn't get any fiberglass quotes for comparision. That would be interesting to see though, what the difference was. Sad thing is, I already spent about $400 on fiberglass batts that I installed myself. Good thing is, a neighbor is remodeling and wants to buy it at a steep discount. I had carefully detached the fiberglass from the walls and ceiling and bundled it up for later use.Handyman, painter, wood floor refinisher, property maintenance in Tulsa, OK