Replies

1. 
   carloa007 | Jun 04, 2007 05:22pm | #1

   White caulk works well

2. 
   McDesign | Jun 04, 2007 07:22pm | #2

   My dilemma with caulk in this situation is that I might paint it someday, so then I don't want to use 100% silicone.  But, it's about the only thing that won't attract mung over the years and make tiny gray spots.  I've had some success with the 50-year ALEX caulk; still paintable.

   Some of that lightweight Red Devil filler or its equivalents also works well; doesn't shrink, but is visible.

   Forrest

1. 
   DanH | Jun 04, 2007 07:43pm | #3

   Yeah, the problem is that paintable caulk will generally yellow fairly quickly if not painted. It also has a rough texture that collects dirt.I solved this problem once where I accidentally (OK, ignorantly) used paintable stuff by painting it with model airplane paint. It seems to take to the caulk fairly well and produces a smooth finish.
   So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin

1. 
   mainetexan | Jun 04, 2007 08:04pm | #4

   I found some caulk called Bond & Fill today at the hardware store and it looks like it should work pretty well. Since we are on the topic of pvc trim, I am finding it tricky to set the nails if they don't go in far enough when shot from the gun. Does it make since that setting these nails in pvc, which is supposed to be the similar in density to wood, would be more difficult?Carlton

1. 
   Ragnar17 | Jun 04, 2007 09:24pm | #5

   Not sure why you're having difficulty with setting the nails.

   But on the subject, there was a thread here within the last week or two where apparently 16ga and smaller nails were NOT supposed to be used for plastic trim due to holding issues.  Just wanted to pass that along in case using a 15ga was an easy option for you.

1. 
   Piffin | Jun 04, 2007 11:10pm | #6

   Finish nails shouldn't be used exterior anyways. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   girlbuilder | Jun 05, 2007 06:54am | #11

   Why aren't you using galvie box nails, stainless screws or ringed trim nails? Hand bang them in, crise your arm won't fall off.

3. 
   DDay | Jun 06, 2007 05:01am | #14

   Azek for one says not to use rings but they work fine with a nail gun. There is no way that you can hand nail pvc trim with rings. The rings heat up and grab the pvc material and if you hand nail, you'll bend a ton of nails and blow the back out of probably all of them. Have not used smooth nails with pvc but they would probably work fine.

4. 
   RedfordHenry | Jun 06, 2007 05:51am | #15

   I just finished hand nailing a bunch of PVC trim using 2.5" stainless steel "PVC Trim Nails" manufactured by Independent Nail Co. located in Taunton, MA.  They appear to be a ring shank siding nail dipped in white paint.  No problems hand nailing at all.  My only gripe is the paint on the head is usually gone after 3 or 4 whacks with the hammer.  I hammer them flush and be done with it. 

5. 
   DDay | Jun 06, 2007 06:20pm | #18

   Check out maze nails website. They make nice nails but way too expensive around here. Anyway, they make a plastic cap that goes on the face of the hammer. I've never used them so no idea how well they work but they are designed to protect that painted nail head.

6. 
   shearwater | Jun 06, 2007 07:49pm | #19

   I've had mixed results with SS ring shank nails and a Bostich NR66 gun.  Seems there is a temperature dependent factor on how much PVC face will resist overdriving the heads, and some will tend to go flush.  Have had better luck with SS trim screws (http://www.mcfeeleys.com).  What I like about the trim screws is they leave a neat round hole, and the trim can be adjusted.  Bond & Fill works nicely on PVC whether it's Azek or Koma.

7. 
   girlbuilder | Jun 07, 2007 05:59am | #21

   "PVC Trim Nails" mebbe that's what we used now that I think about it, have to check it out.

8. 
   girlbuilder | Jun 07, 2007 05:58am | #20

   I just hand banged some Azek trim on Memorial Day weekend. We had a job to put into two windows in an existing wall, homeowner had bought the trim and requested we use the white painted, ring shank trim nails he had on hand. No problem at all. Didn't like the small head though, their proper application was metal, so it can be done.The other alternative is to pre-drill slightly in to start them and screw in with SS trim screws. Even though the head is small, the screw will hold the material.

9. 
   Stilletto | Jun 07, 2007 01:00pm | #22

   >There is no way that you can hand nail pvc trim with rings. <

   I do it all the time.  Try predrilling the stock first.   

   I had alot of outside bay window corners where I had to bevel each piece at 22 1/2 degrees and I couldn't do it with my gun. 

   So I predrilled and hand nailed them together,  it worked very well.   Then I waited for the glue to dry and installed them. 

    

   Edited 6/7/2007 6:03 am ET by Stilletto

10. 
    Piffin | Jun 12, 2007 12:06am | #26

    "if you hand nail, you'll bend a ton of nails and blow the back out of probably all of them"What are you nailing this too, anyway - oak? 

     

    Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

3. 
   Piffin | Jun 04, 2007 11:12pm | #7

   The bond'n'fill or a vinyl exterior spackle.

    

    

   Welcome to the
   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
   Excellence is its own reward!

4. 
   cim | Jun 05, 2007 01:02am | #8

   I dont have much experience with pvc trim but it seems reasonable to me that you would be able to plug the holes with pvc bungs cut from some scrap material, but again I dont have any experience with it.

5. 
   cim | Jun 05, 2007 01:05am | #9

   Also let me get this straight, a countersunk nail hole would be a hole that you have purposely drilled or do you mean the divot left behind by a pneumatic nail gun.

1. 
   mainetexan | Jun 05, 2007 04:23pm | #12

   Yeah, by countersunk I actually mean recessed by a nailgun. The bung idea sounds pretty good. I am using hotdipped galvinized nails and want to cover them to make sure they don't run.

1. 
   DDay | Jun 06, 2007 04:57am | #13

   Should have used SS and flush nailed but too late now. If you used galv's then I would opt for the trim bonder or bond and fil to seal the nail in with PVC material. I think the bung's are a lot more work and will not look good at all if you do not paint. I know the trim bonder is just like the Azek and if you fill the holes, just lightly sand and you cannot see where the nails are.Also, if you have not drilled out bungs from pvc, its not fun and takes a long time. The pvc gets soft quickly and distorts the bungs. Even if you drill at very slow speeds, its hard to keep the pvc from heating up.

6. 
   DDay | Jun 05, 2007 05:00am | #10

   Azek recommends a product called trimbonder. It is a two part in a caulk type tube and will cure white and just like the pvc trim. My supplier is about $28 per tube. If your painting, you could use bondo. I have no experience with bond n fill but I've heard that it yellows if not painted. Caulk isn't a great solution to me. It never sits well in the hole, it always is curved and shows.

   Why not flush nail? When I install Azek, I use plastic collated SS 8d rings in a Makita AN 611 siding nailer and really don't have much of a problem setting them flush.

7. 
   Matt | Jun 06, 2007 02:35pm | #16

   Azek used to recommend exterior vinyl spackle.  If you go to the store and starting reading containers, it isn't too hard to find.  I've never tried the 2 part caulk recommended above.

   To me though, this whole thing about not needing to paint PVC trim is bogus because you always have the nail holes to deal with.  If you fill them, you can't really do any sanding (and not paint) because the sanding changes the surface sheen of the PVC and makes the spots show up even more.  Caulk doesn't really work for nicely covering nail heads unless you use finish nails which don't give much holding power, and even still the caulk always shrinks a bit.  Maybe way up on the house, caulk, etc would be OK, but any trim that is at ground level, or, say by the front door, needs better treatment than that - IMO. 

   I guess you could just tap the nails down flush, as recommended above, if you like that look, but then how do you paint the nail heads?  Also, someone above told about white painted SS 2.5" trim nails which sound good, but as he said, white paint often wears off nails heads as they are driven.  I know this from using the little white SS nails for attaching trim coil.

   IMO, PVC trim has to be painted.

1. 
   mainetexan | Jun 06, 2007 04:36pm | #17

   Well after doing one side of the house I am begining to agree with the folks who think pvc trim should be painted after it is hung. The bond and fill works great to seal joints and holes but a final coat of paint will make it perfect.

   Thanks all for the great suggestions.

    

   C

    

    

8. 
   cooman | Jun 09, 2007 05:35am | #23

   bondo

9. 
   cooman | Jun 09, 2007 05:42am | #24

   Don`t use any fo those ideal they are saying to use. Becasue I`m a finish man , I think you should use a filler called carpenter wood filler. Works real good.

1. 
   user-53014 | Jun 11, 2007 07:58pm | #25

   I screw all Azek with stainless steel finish screws (I've heard too many horror stories about using nails).Azek recommends Trimbonder by Devcon, cost about $25/tube. It is great, basically I call it "liquid Azek". It comes in one tube which fits in standard calking gun and when you squeeze it out it mixes in the nozzle. You have may 10 minutes before it sets up. Replacement nozzles are like .25-.50 cents. I have filled nail holes, gaps, etc. It can also be used on metal, wood, etc.http://www.trimbonder.com/Alan S.