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PVC Trim Boards

JIMMIE | Posted in General Discussion on June 14, 2005 06:21am

I’m in the process of replacing some rotted pine window, door, and siding trim boards.  I’ve bought some AZEK brand boards and had good luck routing some window sill nosing extension pieces. Manufacturer says that paint must be light in color (LRV 55) to prevent heat related movement problems. Anybody had any actual experience using the product?  

 

JIM

 

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  1. mike4244 | Jun 14, 2005 10:18pm | #1

    I've used Azek a few times. One job required dark green acrylic paint on the door and window casings, light green paint on the crown. The barge boards and corner posts were left white.No problems at all, this was done two years ago. You may have problems with large boards and long runs. I really do not know, limited experience with long term use of plastic boards.

    mike

  2. mbdyer | Jun 15, 2005 12:46am | #2

    I've run a mile or two of Azek, Synboard and such and it's great if espensive.  It will move more than wood in temperature extremes and this can be exasperated by paint color but it isn't a huge deal, just keep it in mind when installing.  I use dabs of construction adhesive plus nails and at the joints I bond it with PVC cement.  The cement cures fast and holds well, it's great for returns where a nail would split the small piece.  If you're very concerned with expansion and contraction at the butt joint you could half lap and cement them but that's a bit of extra work (but then if it was on my house...)  I'll also back caulk the piece and set in in allowing the caulking to ooze out, then when the siding is run to it and if the piece moves a bit, you have two caulk joints in your favor.   Safety glasses are recomended as the small plastic chips can hurt when caught in your eye.  Keep nailing 1/2" or more from the ends as it will chip out.  It will also split and spread the board if you edge nail, as in a miter, so a quick predrilling with a small bit will save you from the frustration of cutting a sweet miter only to have your last nail ruin it after cementing.  I have a window in my shower (clawfoot tub with hanging curtain) and I'm ripping out the swollen wood and replacing it with PVC trim.  I'll have to double up a piece for the stool and have found that the cement may not bond as well with the factory finished face.  In this instance I'll sand off the gloss in the joint and then bond.  Did the stock melt and gum up the router much?  I may fabricate and replace the window sashes as well, I wonder how well the Azek will hold in a double pane sash.  Perhaps I outta float the glass with panel beads as in a frame and panel cabinet door...

    1. JIMMIE | Jun 15, 2005 04:42pm | #3

      Thank You for the info.  The routing was fine.  Most of routed material was like shredded coconut. No gum-up or melting. Fairly easy cleanup. 

       

      JIM   

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