Hi, I am new here… with a pretty straightforward question. Please keep in mind I am a rank novice — I was married to a carpenter and very spoiled by what he knew how to do. I am on my own now and learning slowly.
I am replacing my shower curtain rod in a tiled shower enclosure, 50’s construction, looks like pretty run of the mill shiny ceramic tile, the little 4 in square ones.
The rod is one of those slick ideas – big curve in it so there is more elbow room in the shower when the curtain is drawn (why didn’t I think of that!).
The directions stated to use a 1/4 inch tile bit. So now I own one of those. The package of bits shows – in little pictures – to slow down the drill, wear gloves, use eye protection and cutting fluid. They got me on that last item. New term.
I showed the diagram to the store clerk, who pointed me to a section of stuff for cutting tools… and there was cutting oil. That package talks about cutting metal threads and stuff like that. So now my questions…
1. is that the right stuff?
2. do I really need to use it? The jug has no directions.. do I dip the bit in it? squirt it in the hole after I start? I haven’t a clue. (have a laugh on me here)
3. will it stain the grout? the label says it is ‘dark’ —
4. slow drill — I took that to mean lower the torque and go easy on the trigger (variable speed drill). Do I need to do both?
5. I only need to make 4 little holes to tap those plastic things into so the screws for the bracket have something to grab onto.
6. In my house so far, I have found, has a plaster layer over top of a drywall looking stuff.. it was built in 1957 (Akron, Ohio). I have only lived here a couple of years now and it is time to tackle a few improvements.
I appreciate any advice.. before I make one little 1/4 in. hole that turns into needing a bathroom gutted and totally rebuilt from my mistakes.
Thank you!
Nancy – all thumbs, but ready to try.
Replies
I've never seen a requirement or recommendation to use cutting fluid with a tile bit.
Are you sure you have a TILE bit?
Look at the attached photo.
You should make accurate hole locations before drilling, going so far as to drill the first hole and then placing your template or bracket back on the wall to verify the maked locations before drilling again.
On tile you will need a break in the glaze to keep the bit from wandering around and making a hole where you DON'T want it. Some will use a nailset to break the glaze. I place the bit in the drill, place the point of the bit on my mark and strike the back of the drill sharply with the heel of my palm one time and generate the break in the glaze. No extra tools needed.
Once started and through the glaze, most tile is rather soft so the bit goes quickly through and into the substrate. If you are lucky, you could hit a stud. If you do, stop drilling at the depth consistent with the length of the plastic anchor. Tap in the anchor (it seals the hole and takes up some slop) and use a longer screw so you bite into the stud beyond. With any other holes you will probably hit the void behind the tile and substrate. Tap in your anchors and use the recommended (or supplied) screws for the brackets.
You don't have to worry about the torque. Use the variable speed function, about medium to start and you can speed it up if you want as the wide body of the drill passes the glaze.
That ought to hold you.
C'mon back.
Oops...
Forgot the photo...
Yes it looks just like that... and I neglected to mention the package pictures had the punch pictured to make a starter spot.. (how I would describe the picture).
Thank you for your help...
NR
I've seen the bit pictured as a glass bit. A carbide masonry bit is what I'd use, without fluid.
Ralph's info was good. Here's one he missed:
3. will it stain the grout? the label says it is 'dark' --
Yes, it will likely stain the grout. And as Ralph said, you probably don't need it. It's meant to help keep the drill bit cool and lubricated. Yoyu can accomplish the same thing by not pushing too hard.
In my house so far, I have found, has a plaster layer over top of a drywall looking stuff..
It's generally refferred to as "rock lathe". It was quite common in the 50's. And it doesn't change the type of fastener that you should use.
Unless you're the lead dog, the view just never changes.
Ralphwicklund is close to the money. I'll add a couple of thoughts, lube for tile is usually water, this is only needed if you have real hard tile; used to keep the bit from heating up too much. To knock the glaze off you can also use a large nail, just tap around where you want to drill until you see the glaze come off, then drill. Don't hit it real hard. Lots of luck.
As the other folks said you probably don't need the cutting oil (and it will stain) but I have used a little Kerosene before with good results.
I'll add my 2cents here. I always start with the smallest glass and tile bit I have and use successively larger ones to get the hole to the diameter I need. The smaller bit will cut quicker. The slower the speed the better, though it's hard to resist the urge to let it fly, expept that overheats and burns out the bit quickly. I apply as much pressure as I can. A bit of water now and then may help reduce overheating of the bit.
Let's not confuse the issue with facts!
One other bit of advice...If you have a spare tile around try it on that first. Those bits are real easy to use. They go right through like butter.
The only thing you need to be careful of is to keep it from sliding around initially so start slow and hold the drill nice and firm.
Be well
andy
The secret of Zen in two words is, "Not always so"!
When we meet, we say, Namaste'..it means..
Ralph has it right again. Except I use a nail to tap the tile, but that's personal preference. And Andy has a great idea ... when you return the jug of oil to the Depot, pick up 2-3 simialr tiles ... they're about 29 cents each ... and practice on them.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Thanks everyone. The jug of cutting oil goes back. I like the notion of a practice round, so will trade oil for a few tiles. The pack of tile bits was some special deal (or I was sucked right in there to buying more...) an assortment of sizes and it had two of the 1/4 inch ones. So I do have a smaller one than 1/4 to start with.
One of the guys I work with suggested putting masking tape over the tile to protect the parts I am not drilling thru... sounds reasonable to me. What do you think?
Nancy R.
Sunday will be project day....
Nancy,If you break the glaze with a nail, the tape does little or nothing for you. Tape can act to stabilize the bit when only the point is on the tile, to reduce skidding around, since the tip is engaged in the tape layer.Starting with a smaller bit is an excellent idea. You only need it to get the holes started, maybe the first 1/4" of depth, then switch to the 1/4" diameter bit.Where did you purchase the curved shower rod?Bill
Bill, I first experienced the "extra room" in the shower when I was attending a convention in Chicago in 2002 (First ever Red Hat Society at the Chicago Westin Hotel - very luxe I thought). I started looking for one for my house... without success. I was told by Westin those were exclusive for them... and quit looking.
Then I stumbled across one on e-Bay last spring and bought it. I have now seen one that looked pretty much just like mine at the Home Depot when I was shopping for the tile bits. I don't remember what the retail one cost. I know I got mine for around close to $30 That company was re-selling returned goods & was in a nearby suburb of Cleveland so I just drove up to get it. I lucked out on mine, the hardware was all there and the installation instructions too. Battered carton, but the contents were just fine.
The concept seems so simple... why did it take till now to be invented and marketed etc etc. The gizmo that holds the rod to the wall swivels on a verticle axis, I guess for adjustment and alignment reasons.. I originally thought was it would just go into the existing thingy, but not so.
Go to ebay.com and search for curved shower and you probably would find some I would expect. If I ever figure out how to upload a picture, I could (hopefully!) show off my completed project -- or the starts of a major bathroom remodel.... ouch!
Thank you all,
Nancy (a long time Red Hatter)
Edited 9/17/2005 1:41 pm ET by NRhodes
like this ?
View Image
Luka is sure to find this
Edited 9/17/2005 2:44 pm ET by Mooney
or this ;
Luka will find this for sure.
View Image
I don't think the masking tape would be a benefit for you. Yes, it will keep the bit from sliding, but once you break the glaze with the nail and create a dimple in the face of the tile, that will do the same thing.
Be careful when you practice. The tiles on the wall are fully supported on the backside with the mastic, whereas your practice tile will be hollow. It migh crack when you dimple it.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
For "lubricant" keep a squirt bottle of water handy.... not really needed but can be handy under certain circumstances. Any other types of fluids or oils can cause undue staining.
As for center punching.... put the bit on your mark (while it is in the drill) and give a push... the carbide drill tip will pierce the glazing sufficiently... I've never had a problem.
http://www.peteforgovernor.com
Yeah, forget the cutting oil. If you have to make a lot of holes or a big or deep hole it helps to use some water, but you don't need it here.
First place a piece of Scotch tape over the place where the hole should be and mark the spot. Then use something like an ice pick (a "scratch awl" or very fine-pointed "center punch" from a hardware store is better) to make a very small dent in the tile. (The Scotch tape will help here by keeping the tip of the ice pick from sliding around.) Tap lightly with a hammer, increasing the force gradually until you've made a slight dent. Tap just a little more to make it a hair deeper (so the drill bit will fit in it better).
Then take the drill with bit, place the tip of the bit in the dent, and slowly start up the drill, applying a fair amount of pressure. Run the drill fairly slowly (5-10 revolutions per second, I would guess). It will take awhile for the bit to start to "dig", but once it does the tile will cut through with remarkable ease.
If the drill bit wanders around and doesn't want to stay in one place (and you're sure you're holding the bit square to the surface), make the dent a little deeper still.
Once it starts cutting let up on the pressure a bit. The go slow and hold the drill square to the surface until the bit is all the way through. If it's a deep hole stop once or twice to blow out the dust.
Then take the drill with bit, place the tip of the bit in the dent, and slowly start up the drill, applying a fair amount of pressure
or simply turn the chuck by hand until you get an inescapable dimple
The picture with the female is the shower curtain rod. You can see in that photo the different look to the part that goes on the wall. it is sort of a 'T' shape, and part the tube of the shower rod goes into swivels horizontally.
The project is at hand, soon as I have some coffee and look at the Sunday paper. I will report back. Thank you for all the advice and suggestions.
Don, good thing I don't really need all those save the bit lubes... I'm all out of whale blubber AND bear grease and need my jug of "oil of olay" for my face...
Nancy R.
Edited 9/18/2005 8:00 am ET by NRhodes
For drilling tile for bathroom hardware I use a sharp (new or near new) 1/8" masonry bit started slowly with decent pressure to brake the glaze and make a small pilot hole. Then whatever size larger masonry bit is needed goes right through. I'd forego the water/karoseen/ear wax/tapping fluid/bear fat/whale blubber/facial oil/etc. since it is mostly to increase the lifespan of your bit and you only have a few holes.
Best of luck, Don
Edited 9/17/2005 11:32 pm ET by IdahoDon