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Question on ratings of gas flex line

tflatebo | Posted in Construction Techniques on January 19, 2019 11:21am
We just got a new gas stove (We got an American Range ARR 530), I have hooked up all of our previous dryers and ranges so figured this would be simple, but I have run into two issues:
 
  1. The BTU/hr rating is much higher than our previous range, and more than the flex line they selll at Home Depot
  2. The gas inlet on the range is way up almost to the top of the unit
BTU and gas flex line
 
Our new stove’s rating in the manual is 113,000 BTU (even though if I add up all of the burners and burners it is only 96,000). As I went to go buy a new flex gas line I noticed that the 5/8″ OD line at 48″ long is only rated for 106,000 BTU/hr. 
 
Would this be a problem to just use this size and length line?
 
Length of flex line
 
The gas inlet for the range is 30″ off of the floor, and the gas valve from the house supply is a few inches off of the floor. So with a 48″ line, I would have at most about 16″ to pull the stove out from the wall to access the shutoff valve. Disconnecting the flex line likely wouldn’t be too hard since the access door is up at the top, but I would have to climb onto the counter to get at it.
 
The previous stove had it’s gas inlet on the bottom under the oven, so this is pretty different for me. I have no problem calling a plumber if I *have to* but would like to be able to get this done myself as it is the weekend and my wife would like to have a stove.
 
What do people think about the BTU rating of the flex line and only being able to pull the stove out 16″ or so?
 
One last question

The gas inlet for the range is a 90 degree street valve. Can/should I run a black pipe down behind the shroud and present a fitting at the bottom of the back cover? Seems like that would help with any length issues but it wouldn’t be secured to the appliance, as I don’t see a way to do that.

Is this intended to be a flex line all the way up to that street valve?

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  1. cussnu2 | Jan 20, 2019 07:57pm | #1

    Does that "pocket" extend all

    Does that "pocket" extend all the way to the floor?  In other words, can you put a length of black iron pipe all the way to the floor inside the back cover?  Otherwise, I would take the 90 out and put a nipple on it and then a 90 with a pipe to the floor (or to the height of your inlet pipe.  I know of no reason (other than possible lack of total performance you paid for) that a small amount of undersize in the pipe will be a problem.

    1. tflatebo | Jan 20, 2019 10:34pm | #2

      yes it does

      It is pretty clear inside of the back cover, that's exactly what I was thinking of. It exits the back shroud 4" off the floor so I could totally do that. My only hesitation is that length of pipe (about 26") wouldn't be secured by anything and would flex inside of the street el at the entry into the range.

  2. tflatebo | Jan 24, 2019 09:16pm | #3

    Final follow-up

    As a final follow-up, I had my regular plumber come out and inspect the total run of the gas supply line, and give advice on the installation of the range.

     

    He said that the inspectors here in Minneapolis do in fact require that the shutoff be behind the range, not in a cabinet. Also, my 5/8" OD, 1/2" ID gas supply line is rated well enough (over 100,000 BTU) for my stove and would work fine. I ended up hooking it up myself with a 1/2" ID flex line and everything is hunky-dory. Thanks to everyone for the advice!

  3. user-302806 | Feb 11, 2019 02:17pm | #4

    The black pipe to the outlet in the kitchen is probably 3/4" ID pipe. With gas there is less pressure and so it is important to follow the recommendations for distance (from the meter to the stove) and the combined BTU specs for all attached appliances fed by that line.

    The stove manufacturer should have specified the minimum diameter for the supply line and I would not go smaller. I would also not limit myself based on what happened to be stocked at the local hardware store.

    It may seem odd but for gas lines a certified plumber is required in most areas. Considering the possible risks with a leaking gas line it is not something I mind paying.

    Depending upon the other gas burning devices in your house you may also need to upgrade the gas meter to a higher capacity one. The utility company will probably do this at no cost to you.

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