Replies

1. 
   seeyou | Mar 04, 2005 11:05pm | #1

   Was the original roof shakes or shingles (hand split or machine cut) and which do you plan to put back?

   If you are speaking of shingles, #1's are normally used on the roof and perfections on side walls. I'm not aware of thickness options with shingles. If shakes, get the thickest.

   Personally, I don't think the added cost of stainless nails is worth it. I've installed many and torn off many more cedar roofs and I've never seen nail failure with hot dipped galvanized. There are many here that will probably argue this. 

   and a roll would be laid halfway down on either side to discourage moss

   I'd lay a 1" wide strip of copper every 4-5 courses just slightly under the butts.

   You're almost as paranoid as the people that're trying to kill me.

1. 
   MikeSmith | Mar 04, 2005 11:14pm | #2

   well, like green says.. you have to clear up the question of shakes  vs. shingles

   if it's shakes.. will they be handsplits .. or  sawn backs.?

   a shake is normally 24"..

   and if in PA.. i'd be happy with Hot Dipped Galv.. problem is  i wouldn't hand nail them , i'd nail them with a gun..   and getting true Hot Dipped Galv  is hard.. about the only place is Maize Nails..

   like you said , it's mostly labor.. so i'd probably be using  a 6d ring shanked SS gun nail

   now if it's shingles.. i'd use a #1 Thick Butt,   with a 4d  HDG box nail or  SS ring shank

    Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   Piffin | Mar 05, 2005 12:09am | #4

   U type faster'n me, U old dog... 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   Piffin | Mar 04, 2005 11:19pm | #3

   I don't consider the ss nails worth it for cedar either.

   Bu I have to follow greencu on that same Q back to you. Most people confuise the terms shaks and cshingles when speaking of cedar roofs. Cedar shingles are far more common in the east ( I have opinions why)

   The installation techniques for both are VERY different, so we ned to knowwhich youu are focusing on.

   It would have been nearly impossible to cover the original rioof with asphalt shingles if it had been shakes to start with. They are heavier butts - about 5/8" on average, and lay 8-10" exposure to the weather while being 18" to 24" long individually.

   Cedar shingles are normally only 3/8" butts, laid about 5" to the weather and are 16" to 18" long. They are smooth surfaced sawn and sometimes sanded, while shakes are hand split.

    

    

   Welcome to the
   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
   Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   GLAUCON | Mar 05, 2005 12:16am | #5

   Thanks for your prompt answers.  I can't tell for sure whether the original cedar roof was shingle or shake (I can only see the underside from inside the attic), but I would guess shingle.

   I was planning on re-roofing with handsplit shakes.  I like the appearance of shakes on a roof more than shingles; the house is a colonial revival and I think you could use either (while many houses in the east do favor cedar shingles over shakes, in some places e.g. Cape Cod, shakes are common).

   I haven't done much roofing, but I am a woodworker, so I guess I tend to be partial to heartwood over sapwood and to the endgrain issues. Is there a longevity issue in Perfection vs #1 grade? I'm thinking with a 12/12 pitch (the attic is well ventilated from the gables and I never have ice dams) the roof may last a bit longer, even if the roofer doesn't (I wouldn't want to be working at that pitch 35 feet off the deck...)

   Glaucon

3. 
   Piffin | Mar 05, 2005 01:37am | #6

   Much of your cost will be for tearoff amnd debris removal, especially at 35' up there, even before you get to the install phase. So go with the best material you can get.

   I prefer leaded copper for flashings. it doesn't stain the paint job and will wear better. I'm not sure what you ean about the locations. For fungus prevention, zinc strips is what you want.

    

    

   Welcome to the
   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
   Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   MikeSmith | Mar 05, 2005 02:35am | #7

   glaucon..

   you should go up in the attic and measure the spacing on your skip sheathing..

   this will determine your exposure.. unless you want to change the spacing

   IE:  if your skips are 5" oc... then your shingles will be 5" exposure

    

     or your shakes will be 10" exposure... i think that's a stretch..   anyways, it will have a bearing on your plansMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   Piffin | Mar 05, 2005 03:24am | #8

   Often, I have seen 1x8 skip sheathing at 10" OC work for 5" exposure 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   MikeSmith | Mar 05, 2005 03:39am | #9

   glaucon.... shakes are pretty ambitious for your first wood roof..

   and they are easier to get wrong  and  be a little less than satisfactory..

    you will get a great rustic look with  an 18" #1   THICK butt  laid at 5 1/2"

    

   on skip sheathing it will be a long lasting roof.. and if you use copper ridge flash.. you won't have any moss or algae eitherMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   Piffin | Mar 05, 2005 03:46am | #10

   I got the impression he was not doing this himself. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   GLAUCON | Mar 05, 2005 05:31am | #11

   Damn straight... I'm hiring a pro.  I just want to feel comfortable with the materials and approach.  For hand split shakes on a 12/12, would you use premiums or #1?  Is 5/8" thick enough?

   Glaucon

3. 
   MikeSmith | Mar 05, 2005 07:18am | #12

   Glaucon... here's where we get most of our cedar from..

    click on their product list for shake specs

   http://www.libertycedar.com/Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

4. 
   GLAUCON | Mar 07, 2005 01:39am | #13

   Thanks Mike- and everyone else for their advice- I am thinking about using #1 RED CEDAR MEDIUM HANDSPLIT- any reaon to favor heavy over medium?

    

   Glaucon