I’d really appreciate some information about the engineered flooring I want to install in my small house.
Background: The subfloor is 3/4 in. Advantech T&G nailed and glued over 2X10s on 16 inch centers. Spans are short so there’s a very solid feel to the floor.
I like the idea of the engineered floor for its ease of installation and the fact that it is prefinished. (We’re living in the building so sanding dust and urethane drying times are also considerations). I can live with the joints as long as I buy a micro-beveled product. At least the samples don’t shout, ‘PREFINISHED!’ the way deeply beveled edges do.
Questions:
1. Will I be happy with the appearance ten years from now?
2. Is it better to nail or glue a floor that recommends either installation?
3. Is it worth buying a product with thicker veneer? (I’d think that eventually refinishing it would be easier )
4. Does anyone have a preferred manufacturer?
Thank you for any help.
Sam
Replies
It is my understanding that he engineered wood floors use the same clear wear coat (with aluminum oxides) as the laminates and the pre-finished solid wood floors.
I'd go with nailing, with no conscious rational reasoning....
With my mouth I will give great thanks to the Lord; I will praise Him in the midst of the throng. For He stands at the right hand of the needy, to save them from those who would condemn them to death.
- Psalms 109:30-31
I don't know about ten year life, the first one I did was at Mom's, about six years ago, and it looks as good as when I put it in. It was edge glued and floated. I wouldn't do that again.
The house I sold in Nevada, I nailed down. With the dedicated stapler, and a couple of buddies to help, it went in really quick and easy. Again no idea how it is holding up, I did the floor just before I decided to sell.
My general thought on the thicker veneer layer is that I would rather put in a new engineered floor than deal with refinishing the old one, so the veneer thickness doesn't matter. In part, because by the time you get ready to start sanding the floor you have done all the furniture moving, and pulled the base anyway. And, because you are back to the hassles of sanding dust and fumes in a house you are living in. And, the surface is pretty tough so I don't know how amenable it will be to sanding.
I would recommend that you get as many layers of ply build up in the flooring as you can, they will be more stable. I have seen 1/2-in with 3-plys, and 1/2 with 7-plys. The 7-ply is what I put down at Mom's house. The scraps I have of it are still flat. The 3-ply was a brand name at HomeDesperate, and the samples were visibly warped.
Avoid the darker colored finishes. All of the color is in the finish, they aren't stained. Any scratches are glaringly obvious with the dark finish. When you are shopping try scratching the finish with the edge of a dime.
When it is time to install it, try to buy a used stapler off ebay if you can't rent one locally. I bought mine on ebay for $100 with 13-boxes of staples, did the floors in three houses, and sold it on ebay for $79, with out the staples.
At least three guys is best. One to cut, one to run from the saw to the work and back with the cuts pieces, and relay the measurements, and the third to do the installation. I did two rooms on this house by myself. The up and down about killed me. I don't mind crawling around on the floor for a few hours, and then trading off with somebody for a while, but up and down really got my knees hurting.
If I decide on engineered flooring I'll look on ebay for a stapler. Good idea, thanks. Sam
If you are installing over wood subfloor use nails, should any damage occur later on, boards will be easier to remove and replace.
The floor will last as well as its treated, as long as humidity is controlled. Seasonal expansion does not effect engineered flooring in the same way as solid hardwood, but too humid or too dry conditions can cause slight cupping.
Preferred manufacturer would be Mirage. Excellent product. Super hard finish and can be installed reasonably with only 5% waste consideration.
Gord
Gord, thanks for recommending Mirage. I've seen their products online. Sam
Sam, this is my opinion only. I did not get the results that fix did. I got mine at Lowes about a year ago and wouldn't hit a hog in the buttox with a engineered wood floor. Obviously we are a little harder than many on floors. We do have two dogs and a curtain climber at three years old. Scratches, dents, etc.....It was easy to install! Looked great........
I am in the process of ripping it all out. I bought 3/4 inch Brazilian Oak prefinished 5" wide for $3.50 a sqft. Very nice. Already nailed some down in another room. Very nice! Costs the same as that engineered flooring did!
The other floors in the house were oak, have been down 50+ years and don't look like what that engineer flooring did in one year.......
edited to add: Mine was the thin stuff. 5/16 that failed. Snap together. I bought this stuff because it was to be more stable.
Edited 6/17/2007 11:13 am ET by jarhead2
Jarhead: You bought cheap, so the entire product line is bad.
Now that's good logic.
Engineered flooring is like anything else, there are quality products, and cheap garbage.
The only thing the 5/16 is good for is short term cosmetics. (It does make nice wainscoting though)
The engineered flooring has many advantages over traditional hardwood floors, the biggest in my mind being the stability. I have both, real 3/4-inch t&g 3-inch strip oak flooring that was finished in place, and engineered wood in two rooms and a hall. They were installed within months of each other, and just based on appearances to date, the engineered floor will outlast the traditional quite handily.
Questions:
1. Will I be happy with the appearance ten years from now?
2. Is it better to nail or glue a floor that recommends either installation?
3. Is it worth buying a product with thicker veneer? (I'd think that eventually refinishing it would be easier )
4. Does anyone have a preferred manufacturer?
Sam,
1. Yes, you will be happy, It will wear just regular hardwood.
2. Either/or will work fine. However, should you change your mind in ten years, it will be a real bugger to get up if you glued it down.
3. If you are considering refinishing then you may want to consider solid hardwood. With engineered floors only the top ply is hardwood. The rest is just regular ply or a combination of wood species.
4. There are alot of engineered floors out there. I am familiar with Bruce Hardwood Floors. They have a decent selection and they have been around a long time.
Overall, about the only difference between the two floors is that regular hardwood can only be installed above grade and not over concrete due to moisture. (I know people do it but it isn't recommended.) Engineered can be put anywere above or below grade. There is even an engineered hardwood laminate that just "clicks" together. No glueing or nailing and if you change your mind lift it up and put it some place else. Price is comparible to regular engineered hardwood.
I hope all that helps.
Dave
Thanks for recommending Bruce. I'll check out their line, Doctor Dave.
You're Welcome!
Sam,
Are you talking about the 3/4" eningeered flooring that has the same profile as traditional hardwood flooring or the 5/16" thick snap together?
I think you're talking about the 3/4 when you say beveled edge. If that is indeed the case, I'd avoid the bevel. Dad has it and it looks like crap. For a little more $$$ you can find it with square edges and the look is much better. Bruce makes a line with square edges maybe others do as well.
It sounds like thicker is better! Makes sense to me. Thanks for your opinion, John.
for top of the line engineered ...
nothing I've worked with touches BR-111
just plain fantastic stuff. Pricey ... but to me ... well worth it.
I've used most of what Bruce produces ... and have never had a major complaint their either. Most recently ... I used a Bruce click lock product ... came in ramdon lengths ... looked just like real hardwood once installed. Was an engineered ply with a top layer of real/prefinished wood. Something like a 25 yr warrenty.
forget which one ... either lowes or HD carried it. Most realisitc looking floater I've seen yet. Dragged a full fridge across a coupla scrap pieces ... dented ... but didn't scratch thru the finish. I was impressed by that.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa