When building 2×4 walls that are next to the foundation do the crowns (high points) go inward towards the room or out towards the foundation?
How do you make sure the studs and sill are even? I had my foot on the joint when I was nailing them toghether and when I put the wall in place many of the the studs were overhanging the sill by 1/4 inch? What gives?
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Replies
Studs crown to the outside of the building.
I always snap a line where the wall goes. Then set the bottom plate at the line. Then toenail the plate down on the line side. After that square up the wall by measuring the diagonals and nail on a brace or sheathing. Then lift and stand the wall. The toenails will bend but hold the wall in place. I hope this helps.
Kipherr
Then toenail the plate down on the line side. After that square up the wall by measuring the diagonals and nail on a brace or sheathing. Then lift and stand the wall. The toenails will bend but hold the wall in place.
when we have to... we save the metal banding from the lumber loads... nail it to the decking... bend it up nail to the btm of the plate... then stand the wall up... it lines up perfect and can't slip away from you...
pony
studs don't crown.. if they do.. reject them.. or
stagger them.. one in....one out... if they have a hook...reject them anyways.. the hook'l never come out... some uniform bends will
just putting your foot on them to hold them in place will not hold them in alignment
you have to hold them square and flush.. with your hand far enough back so it's beyond nail range
if you can hand nail studs , you can gun nail studs
you must figure fifty percent waste. We crown up and out and cull the worst ones for cripples and such
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Piffin, you are right on.
Up and out is the way to go.
Any "slush " can be used for other less critical parts of the building.
As Hammerhead mentioned in another post, if the crown is too much it can be 'kerfed' slit and therefore straightened without removing it.
Edited 2/13/2005 8:47 am ET by Hube
>> ... 2x4 walls that are next to the foundation ...
Not sure what distinction you're trying to make. Does "walls that are next to the foundation" mean stud walls in a basement, or does it mean exterior walls, the ones directly over the foundation as opposed to the ones on the interior of the house, or something else?
If you're talking about walls in the basement, I don't think the direction of the crown makes any difference. Just make sure they're all the same in any given wall.
If your in a non load bearing application Just strapping a block wall or something I crown in to the room where you could then cut a small nothch in the stud not a notch for cutting a tree. Hopefully someone else can explain explain what I mean. If all else fails and time isn't an issue you can plain them. I probably think if theyre really crooked you should trade them in for some straight ones.
Have never built a house with straight studs yet .Never been so lucky .i always crown the studs up or (out) and hold the studs flush with the plate .so all ext materials are flush .toe nail walls to line side of wall square and sheath .I think all good studs from canada go to the USA lol.i worked with a guy who crowned studs both ways and we spent a day or two straiting the walls .i have been to the university of hard knocks and am still there
Whats a straight stud?? Whats a straight 2x4 is more like it. Our good lumber doesn't go to the U.S. it goes to Japan. If you've ever had 'J' grade luber you will notice there are very few defects, no waynes or cracks, mold. We got a lift of it by accident before. We've also been sent a lift of 2x6 select once, OH BABY! Sometimes we get what they call re manufactured lumber, usually the most obvious thing about it is that the edges are not rounded. Totaly square, and without any kind of grading marks. Re-man lumber is from an a guy who buys economy grade 2x12, then runs them through a mill of his own and turns them into a 2x10 or a 2x6 to a 2x4 ect.
Rather than start a new thread -- I have another quick framing Q.
Do you put I-Joist Rim Boards around the full perimeter, or just where perpendicular to the I-Joists?
WE use all around the perimeter and double up lvl's over openings and insulate with styrofoam and vapor barrier before joist are installed. and add all the apropriate joist blocks ect.......before the floor is sheated saves time in the end
Edited 2/13/2005 9:37 am ET by cam
Snuck that one in there Jim.......;-)Yes you can put the rim board all the way around the perimeter.Joe Carola
Thanks for the quick replies gentlemen.
Spent the day framing up my sisters basement. We finished just under 1/2 of the outside walls. As to my crown question it wasn't much of an issue as the lumber was very good. I had a hard time finding a lousy one to cut down for blocking. All SPF 2x4x8's from the local HD. Paid $3.22 cdn ($2.61 US) each. Is that an average price?
God I am sore right now!
costs me 3.40 American
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remember when it used to cost $1.00 for DF ?Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Heck, I remember eighty nine cent studs!$.59 cabin grades
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them cabin grade structures... they had rolled roofing , right ?
the good ones had double coverage... hah, hah, hahMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I caled it firewood myself. I remember looking over at a bunk of the things wheni was loading out one day and saw how many knots and wane. Asked what are those things for?
"OH, that's out special cabin grade stud material. The saturday DIY crowd really scarfs them up at that price!"
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yeah.. i was running to get my lumber grading handbook on that oneMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Don't think you'll find it in a book
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I think you are talking about an area where you are framing a wall right next to and parallel with a block wall.
If that is the case, you would still crown 'em up and out, but make sure that you are snapping your lines so as to leave plenty of space between the block and the sticks. We usually leave 1/2" - this should be plenty for even the worst crowns.