Replies

1. 
   pm22 | Jul 13, 2005 07:26am | #1

   A Radial Arm Saw can do everything a sliding compound miter saw can do and more.

   It can dado.

   It can rip.

   It can even be used for certain types of lathe work.

   Equiped with a Sear's sanding disk, it can do precise finish work [for instance trim 1/64" off the end of an 8' stud.]

   However it is not very portable but there should be one on every sizable job.

   ~Peter

1. 
   Sphere | Jul 13, 2005 08:23am | #2

   What you said.  Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   I've been welding all day, what is YOUR excuse?

2. 
   4Lorn1 | Jul 13, 2005 08:48am | #3

   Re:"It can rip."With the understanding that you need to take extra steps, compared to a table saw, to keep it from binding and kicking back. Finger boards, both side and top, and an acute awareness of where you are in relation to the blade are a, IMHO, very good idea. Some time ago I read that the kickback, possibility of the board climbing the blade and binding were the origin of some very troublesome product liability cases that were only put to rest by fancy footwork on the corporate front. In article claimed that while radial arm saws were virtually sold everywhere they largely disappeared in the late 70s and 80s because of this issue.

1. 
   Sphere | Jul 13, 2005 09:42am | #4

   If I may expound a bit about that statement.

   A RAS is totally safe in a rip situ. With your advice duly noted.

   In a rip with the fence and blade in a non paralell ( easy to create) situ. you have an inherent blow back.

   If on the other hand, the saw it set up as it is laid out for you in the OM..the chances of injuries are almost nil.

   I started out with a sears RAS at 15 YO..I had one mishap..making a short moulding ( runnin blindly, hell i was a kid). It was my main tool for the next 5 yrs.

   In rip/out rip..I guess some folks just can't read the plethora of info about these truly adaptable machines.

   I have used 20" DeWalts, and Rockwell, and the funny 8" Ryobi witha router motor.

   My current is a B&D ( circa 1960) 10" ...it just radiates at it's job.

   When set up, and the judicious use of homemade jigs..it can be indespensibile as a stand alone center.

   Good news is, they all can be had for cheap, with the advent of CSMS...I just got a another Caftsman ( 1985model) for the taking..

   Put them on rails in the shop..(sliding) and you can do wonders with a bad back..variable head spacing and or bevels or dadoes.

   A truly versitile set up.  Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   I've been welding all day, what is YOUR excuse?

1. 
   Sancho | Jul 13, 2005 04:40pm | #6

   Ya know you're right...I havent seen to many RAS saws around lately...I was gonna get a SCMS but ya know a RAS might be had for a song...  

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1. 
   Sphere | Jul 13, 2005 05:05pm | #7

   If you were closer I could hand you a 2.75 HP front knob ( raiser) for the taking..not that it really is 2.75 HP, but it rocks.  Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   I've been welding all day, what is YOUR excuse?

2. 
   Bluegillman | Jul 14, 2005 03:53am | #16

   Got two of them for free... I'm not much of a RAS. Table saw guy.....

3. 
   Bergsteiger | Jul 20, 2005 08:20pm | #17

   I have a Craftsman RAS I bought it '82 and it is still going strong.  Yes it does need adjusting every now and then, but I think it is a great tool and I still have all my fingers.

   Now I am looking for a new table saw to replace my dead 1952 Craftsman.  I have seen a Hitachi C10FL at Loews ($499) and a Ridgid TS3650 (about $560) at HD.  I like both of them although the one-step wheel arrangement on the Ridgid is pretty nifty.  But of course ease of use, accuracy and reliability is always more important cool wheels.  Anyone out there have any favorable opinions on either of these of maybe some others in a similar price range?

    

   Thanks

2. 
   Gunner | Jul 13, 2005 07:02pm | #8

   The original shopsmith.

    

    

   We are all in this together.

   http://www.hay98.com/

1. 
   Sphere | Jul 13, 2005 07:16pm | #9

   yeppers. Want it?...Versailles.  Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   I've been welding all day, what is YOUR excuse?

2. 
   Gunner | Jul 14, 2005 12:22am | #12

    Nah Just got rid of one at a yard sale. The motor was about shot and it wouldn't

   stay tuned. I don't really need it with the new table saw. They are one handy piece of machinery though.

    

    

   We are all in this together.

   http://www.hay98.com/

3. 
   TimFinn | Jul 14, 2005 03:02am | #13

   Didn't expect that much of a response.  I've found it very useful on this particular job, just not sure about bringing it on every job.  It is pretty heavy to carry around by yourself.  I definitely not brave enough to rip w/ it.  By the way - mine is a DeWalt 10" - I think it says "Powershop" on it.

2. 
   bladeburner | Jul 13, 2005 03:53pm | #5

   I started out (1969) in a used bread truck. RAS and in-out feed tables mounted on one side, sticks stacked on the other. T-111 was the siding of choice then and we ripped them all day long. Had a long home built adjustable crown jig. Still got the RAS...Sears!

3. 
   cynwyd | Jul 13, 2005 07:28pm | #10

   I saw Mr Kunkel years ago on the show circuit, he was a great showman and advocate for RAS. His book will be a unequalled resource if you want to explore the possibilities of the RAS.

   http://www.mrsawdust.com

1. 
   Shep | Jul 14, 2005 03:31am | #15

   I took some classes from him years ago. He used to have a school/shop up in Chester, NJ. Some of his sons worked with him for awhile.

   I bought my first RA from him - a DW 7770 10".

   I recently picked up a 7790 from my regular lumber yard; they had burned out the motor, and were going to throw it out. I'm gonna rebuild it someday, and I'll have a great saw.

1. 
   junkhound | Jul 21, 2005 12:44am | #18

   I'm gonna rebuild it someday, and I'll have a great saw

    

   Rewound a 70s Crafstman RAS a few years back..  Had talked to the Marathon elec maker of the motor while at their plant testing some 12.9 kV generators. The store motors were made with very low slot fill for manufacturability. 

   When I rewound it was able to go a full wire size larger on both the start and run windings and was able to add a few turns to the start winding, used 220C magnet wire also - redid the current relay to work with the rewind. Dipped in silicone varnish and baked.  Quite an improvement in performance, can pretty much abuse it and stall it and not burn it up.  Took about 3 hours to rewind, simply used 4 nails on a board for winding forms.

1. 
   Shep | Jul 21, 2005 02:29am | #19

   thanks for the info, but I'm probably gonna send the motor out to be repaired.

   I'm trying to realize some of my limits, and use my energies and skills a bit more efficiently.

    

   It actually works (sometimes)

4. 
   GoldenWreckedAngle | Jul 13, 2005 11:10pm | #11

   My grandfather built for his entire life with a RAS, a wormdrive, a sidewinder and good hand saws. I'm sure he used them on occasion, but I don't think he ever owned a table saw.

    

    

   If we fail to catch a cosmic fish it may be a trillion years before the opportunity comes again

5. 
   JerBear | Jul 14, 2005 03:03am | #14

   I had a RAS in my shop for many years and found that I really didn't use it all that much because I had a big shop table saw with great cross cut sleds and jigs. The problem I found with every RAS was that they fall out of adjustment too easily and have to be checked and rechecked and adjusted. I would use mine for rough cuts though and found that when tuned a RAS is really a terrific tool. Even though they do more, I would still get the SCMS because of the portability and most of the cuts you're going to making can be made on a SCMS. The RAS is a great dado tool though.