Replies

1. 
   andybuildz | Oct 09, 2003 03:26pm | #1

   I'm no expert on radial arm saws. I have the Crapsman I bought second hand years ago and hardly ever use it. I really don't like Crapsman tools..theyre more HO oriented IMO.

   I found years ago that most everything I "might" need the radial saw for I can do a better job with my 5 hp. Powermatic table saw or my CMS.....

   Sorry if I was no help.

   Be well,

   andy

   My life is my practice!

   http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM

1. 
   caseyr | Oct 09, 2003 08:02pm | #2

   It appears that in my area, radial arm saws are out and, I assume, sliders are in.  I have been to several tool auctions and radial arm saws in good shape have gone for really cheap.  At one, a couple of large Rockwell radial arm saws of the type often seen in lumber yards drew no bids at all.  It appeared that they could not even be given away.  I didn't take one because I had no place to put it at the time. 

1. 
   jocobe | Oct 09, 2003 08:37pm | #3

   I just gave away a DeWalt radial arm saw to my cousin...fairly good shape.  I'm from a millwork background and I replaced it with a 12" slider from DeWalt.....radial arm saws are extinct for home shops...IMO.  Big radials are good in a commercial shop, but for my shop I'd go with a slider.....they do SO much more!

   jocobe

2. 
   Scooter1 | Oct 09, 2003 08:40pm | #4

   Radial Arm saws are not an all in one product that you will feel comfortable performing a variety of woodworking processes. I would not rip with one, it is outright dangerous. You can make simple cross cuts, but because of the length of the arm, the saws go out of kilter fairly frequently, so cuts can be inaccurate, especially the wider ones. If you don't mind readjusting the saw monthly or weekly, they can be used to make cross cuts and miter cuts. However, the sliding miter saws will do a better job for you. However, they are not designed, and will not hold, a dado blade.

   Where radial arm saws excels is dadoing bookshelves and making tenons and dentil moldings. Last weekend, I was making a chest of drawers for wifey-poo and had over 70 tenons for rails, stiles, and drawer web frame dividers. This would have been an all day adventure with anyother machine. But I calibrated the saw (10 min.), slapped on a dado head (5 min.), and adjusted the dado so it took off a mere quarter of an inch (5 min.) and then set up a stop block for the tenon shoulders (5 min.). So with a 30 minute set up, I could run my 70 tenons in about 15 minutes. Way cool, and no other machine could have been so fast, not even a table saw with a Delta tenoning jig.

   My recommendation for a radial arm saw (I have owned three) is to check with some used machinery dealers or ebay and get an old DeWalt, made prior to 1970. They are 12", 240 volt single phase 3 hp units that are cast iron and built like a brick s h i t house. Go to any Home Depot and they use the 3 phase ones. Expect to pay about $800 for one in decent shape.

   My second choice, but is is rare, is to find an old Comet RAS. These were made between 1955 and 1970 by an outfit in California, and look like a giant sliding miter saw with a 14" blade. Again they are either 110 or 240 volt single phase units. When I was building tract housing in the San Fernando Valley in the late 60's, this is what we used, and they were towed with trailers. I have seen quite a few shops with these installed in workbenches. Expect to pay about $1,500.

   The third choice would be a new Delta, either the 110 or the 240 volt. The 110 is less than a $1,000 I think, but the better 240 volt is closer to $1,500, and is a clone of the old DeWalts.

   I would avoid the new DeWalts, Sears, or Rigids. I think that they are c r a p. I have owned two Sears, and they will only give you about 6 years of solid use before the motor c r a p s out. If you must pick one of those three, I think I would go with Sears, but get a Service Contract on it! On these three check the arbor length. Most of these will not hold a full three quarters dado blade which makes them fairly useless for building cabinets.

   Regards,

   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

   
   

   ---

   Edited 10/9/2003 1:42:36 PM ET by Boris Yeltsin

1. 
   Sicilian | Oct 09, 2003 10:15pm | #5

   That was pretty much my intentions for its use, crosscutting and mainly datoing.  Which as we all know a slider does not handle datoing.  That being said, I find it hard to justify paying big dollars for a machine that I am only going to perform two functions a majority of the time.  Still I would like to get the best machine for my money and I do appreciate your input.  I do not think that these machines have become totally obsolete yet.  Lets not forget that a radial arm is a stationary machine (in most cases) so its capabilities will always be at hand.

   Ciao,

   The Sicilian

1. 
   Scooter1 | Oct 09, 2003 10:47pm | #6

   I love mine, and use it weekly. Great for quick cross cuts where accuracy is not an issue. Can't be beat for dadoing. I have the ancient DeWalt which is just awesome. Really eats up a 4x4.

   Given that, I would say go with the cheap Delta 110 volt. Try to find one used. If you can find a Sears or DeWalt that has a full length arbor, that would be my second choice.Regards,

   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

1. 
   Sicilian | Oct 10, 2003 07:44pm | #8

   Thanks for the info,  can you give a little more details on your arbor length preferences?  Also why is it not cutting accurately?  What does a 220 give you in performance that a 110 cannot? 

   Thanks,

   The Sicilian

1. 
   Scooter1 | Oct 10, 2003 09:21pm | #10

   At least for me, I need to dado 3/4 inch plywood, so the arbor has to hold a stacked dado set.

   The arbor length to accomodate a 3/4 stacked dado set up will vary from machine to machine, because each machine has its own set of spacers, washers, flanges, nuts, and the like. But assuming there is a built in flange when one removes all the blades (by the way, my 1957 DeWalt does not have built in flange, and it is loose fit on to the arbor), you would need room for a 3/4" stacked dado set, probably a sixteenth inch washer and a quarter inch nut, so the total length of the arbor would be about an inch and a quarter, right?

   If you are in doubt, take your dado set and install it before you buy.

   240 volt machines typically have more horsepower, but that is not always the case; 240 volt machines typically have a larger blade (12 or 14 inch as opposed to a 10 inch).

   My ancient old DeWalt cuts just fine, and I re-calibrate it only about once a year.

   The reason why my two Sears RAS's went out of whack frequently has to do their design. The Arm, on which the saw tracks, pivots left and right on a post. Ideally, it doesn't pivot very easily, or it goes out of whack. One wants the arm to remain stationary, even when the arm is banged around. The Sears Arm, if I can remember correctly, was held in place by four small set screws that bore on the curved post. That set up did not hold the Arm very secure, and thus, I had to re-calibrate the saw frequently.

   In contrast, the old DeWalts and Deltas have an Arm which is held in place by large castings, in which the Arm has a cast iron finger which slips into a Post casting sandwich, like a briddle joint. There are set screws on each side of the finger which adjusts the Arm very slightly to calibrate. Mine is pretty dead on and can cut up to 14" away from the fence, which again makes dadoing cabinet sides awfully easy.

   Sliding miter saws have no post, the whole assembly pivots on the base and there are usually two rods which elminate flex. Again, sliding miter saws can't hold a dado blade, nor a molder.

   Regards,

   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

2. 
   bill_1010 | Oct 10, 2003 09:23pm | #11

   no performance issues at all really, however being on 240, it will usually have its own breaker and with that comes all the start up ampreage you need w/o flickering power or depriving power to other equipment when you start up motors.

2. 
   NickNukeEm | Oct 10, 2003 05:36am | #7

   I'll admit to owning a Crapsman RAS.  DW bought it for me as a birthday present about 15 years ago.  I use it regularly and rarely have to tweak it back into square.  It came with a digital readout for height and bevel angle, which hasn't worked in years, but I have a Makita 12" dual compound slider that handles the intricate stuff.  I've often thought of unloading the beast (it takes up a significant amount of sqaure feet) but I use it often enough to warrant keeping it.

   I never met a tool I didn't like!

3. 
   ToolDoc | Oct 10, 2003 08:08pm | #9

   The old Dewalts are the best..Deltas run a 2nd best.. Check out this site for radial arm saw info..

   http:///www.mrsawdust.com     

                                                ToolDoc

   Proud Member of the Delta & Klein Tradesman Club & Milwaukee HD Club & Knots Bad Boys & Girls Club..

   A Non ~ Member of the Knots Bandsaw Guru Club..