I’m being asked to build a roof (either shed or gable)over a brick patio by a mason contractor for his customer.The rafter nailer board (shed) or the first pair of rafters(gable) need to be attached to the building (brick over wood frame). Can they be bolted directly to the brick wall or should the wood frame be exposed and they bolted to the studs?Or (best choice) recommend a structural engineer spec it (then I won’t get the job!)?
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Replies
cannot be attach to brick
I have installed rafters on top of concrete walls. You may have to pour a grade beam on top of brick wall and embed anchor bolts to later attach a pressure treated plate.
This is an existing brick wall, with roof attachment in the middle of the field. I may have to break out a few bricks every two feet or so,locate studs and lag bolt into them(watch for wires!). I should probably fill the void between the bricks and sheathing at those points to prevent from crushing the bricks and loosening them. I'll also need to cut a groove into wall to set flashing(copper,lead,aluminum?). Any other suggestions welcomed.
a brick veneer wall is not structural so it should not be used to support a roof load.But I don't understand why this has to be directly attached to the brick. Build it like a free standing structure and just penetrate the brick veneer with the roof flashings.maybe scissors trusses
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Also, if the roof is small, the brick will most certainly hold it up. If not, I better go back and fix a few things that I've done in the past LOL.
If it's a gable you don't need to attach it at all. Think of a gable house where is it going?
If you go with the shed can you make it freestanding with a beam for support in the cieling? You might need to stop it from pushing the brick in if it's too big, but the forces down could be held with a beam.
Then just grind out the joints for the flashing.
NAIL IT !!!
My concerns have now grown to wind uplift resistance. Without walls there is more exposure to the under side of the roof to be carried away and deposited in the next county. I have decided to follow my "best choice" advice and require an engineer to spec it.
You are right to be concerned about wind loading, but this can be handled easily with rafter clips (or heavier) and correct foundation ties for the columns. If you don't want free-standing columns near the house (to avoid loading brick veneer) you could use trimmed-out pilasters against the brick and carry threaded rod down inside the pilaster to footings - that would take care of uplift in concert with tied-down outboard columns.
Jeff