I am thinking of simply using 2X4 rafters for my woodshed and on top of this using 1X4s for strapping and then covering with a metal roof. I am torn between using 2X4s or 2X6’s for the rafters. The dimensions of the structure is 4′ deep, 20′ long, and 6′ high in the front and 7′ in the back. Any experienced opinions would be appreciated. Sorry if this is a trivial question but this is the first time building such a structure..
Regards,
Buzzsaw
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Replies
2/4/6' Makes a back of the garage garden shed roof to me. If you are attaching it to your house then you might want to use 2/6 or better, especially if it’s insulated living space.
I went with 2x6 for mine (actually I made trusses.
I also did the 1x4's
After much thought and pending hurricanes, I wish I used plywood, or at least 16" oc on the 1x's
We'll see what happens
heres a pic
View Image
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"Have you seen my baseball?"
Edited 7/8/2005 10:35 am ET by sailfish
Edited 7/8/2005 10:44 am ET by sailfish
Sailfish,
When you say "or at least 16" oc on the 1x's" do you mean that you wish that you fastened the metal roof every 16" on center? Pardon my ignorance with that question. How much spacing did you leave between each 1X4 that run perpendicular to the joists? Also, is it possible for you to post any pictures of your metal roof when you have a chance? I know, I'm asking for everything. :-)Regards,
Buzzsaw
Sailfish,
That is the strangest thing. I just went back to your post and saw a picture of the trusses. I'd love to see the finished product. Regards,
Buzzsaw
yes screwed every 16"
But really I should have used plywood
There's another guy (actually a couple) on here doing sheds that have waaaaay more knowledge than I that can help too
Here's a pic
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"Have you seen my baseball?"
wow, you are quick. it looks like you didn't do anything special at the end of the roof, just above the facia board, not even any overhang. Is there any type of flashing or anything used on the edges of the roof. It is hard to tell from the picture. Also, how mush spacing did you use in between the 1X4s? Nice job, by the way.Regards,
Buzzsaw
MRJalapeno,
Did you cut a Bird’s Mouth into the rafters where they meet the header? I am considering not notching and simply using hangers.Regards,
Buzzsaw
Buzzsaw,
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If I was building (for myself) a light duty rough woodshed to keep firewood dry and a few garden tools stored under it I would not notch a 2/4 rafter, I would a 2/6. I would also run the rafters’ 3’ o.c. and the 1/ 4’s too (top, bottom, and center). That is kind of stretching the materials to cut cost but it is still more than enough for a shed.
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Btw, nice tool shed Sailfish. Nice looking doors!
If you didn't notch the 2X4s would you just use metal hangers or just toenail them?Regards,
Buzzsaw
Buzzzzz………..<!----><!---->
What's the slope of your shed roof? If it is 4/12 or less, toenails alone will suffice. If steeper, then a shallow birdsmouth will help them fit but is not really needed. Mark all your notchless rafters with a reference to nail them on the beam by .One good toenail from each side should do it either way. I have also beveled the outer beam to mate the notch less 2/ rafters. Since it is just a woodshed, just about anything will fly. It just depends how persnickety you want to get with it. <!---->
I ate at a little country deli this noon and the entry porch had a 6’ shed roof covered porch on it very similar to what you are asking about. It has a double 2/6 beam w/ natural cedar fence style posts about 8’ apart, 4 or 5 /12 pitch, 2/4 rafters on 4’ centers, no birdsmouth, 1/ 4’s on 3’ centers, rusty corrugated tin. Rustic charm outside and good sandwiches inside. <!---->
If this is your first project of this sort you’re going to have fun. Don’t make yourself too nervous before you get started though. Don’t worry; just think of it as a box with a slightly sloping lid (w/ or w/o sides). (Boxes are just hinged squares/parallelograms) Box Tech.<!---->
You could have had that thing built by now. =)<!---->
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You can do it! <!---->
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He already gave the piitch. It slopes from 6' to 7' in four feet. That makes it a 3/12..Whether to use 2x4 or 2x6 for a short 4' span like that depends on whether he is in snow country or not.
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Piffin,
I live in NH so I guess you would consider this snow country. I certainly will clear the roof after a storm... I'm going to look at cost and then decide. I almost would like to go through the exercise of cutting the bird's mouth on the 2X6 rafters but we shall see...Regards,
Buzzsaw
You can just frame your walls and lay a rafter along side the 6' wall and 7' wall and scribe the level seatcut and the plumbcut which gives you the birdsmouth at the top and bottom and you'll be done in about 2 minutes with you holding one end and scribing and someone else holding the other end and scribing.Or in my drawing you will see where I put the line for you to hold the rafter flush to scribe. You can take a 2x4 block about 1' long and nail it flush to the top plate extending it out at the top and bottom wall so that your rafter can sit on the blocks and it will put you at the exact point you want to be so you don't have to struggle to hold it and then scribe away.Having a birdsmouth makes it so much easier to work with because you slide the rafter until the birdsmouth goes into place and nail it and your done. You don't want to have to struggle if you don't have too even though they are small rafters.Or you can try and layout the birdsmouth mathematically or with your framing square just to have some fun or just scribe it and be done with it in 2 minutes with no figuring at all except the overhang.Joe Carola
Joe,
Thanks for this. Great schematic! I would like to use 2X4s if possible. Do you think it makes sense to do the bird's mouth cut with 2X4s or go with 2X6s?Regards,
Buzzsaw
Joe,
What do you typically cut your bird's mouth with? I assume a circular saw or a jig saw? I have a bandsaw at home and I guess I could use that also? Any recommendations for spacing of the 1X4s on top of the rafters (under the metal roof)?Regards,
Buzzsaw
Joe,
One other thing (I know I am a pain), I plan on having a little bit of rafter overhang at the peak and at the bottom of the roof but I am a little confused as to what I should use to prevent water from running down the back 9at the peak) since I will not have a ridge cap since this is only half of a roof. Should I run flashing underneath the metal roof at the peak that will allow the water to run down the flashing onto the ground in the back of the woodshed? Not sure the best solution for this...Regards,
Buzzsaw
Thanks Piffin,<!----><!---->
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I do have a reading problem, every since I got my new glasses, progressive trifocals. Excuse me, I’ll make a note to reread post thrice from now on. I missed that up a little.<!---->
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That my excuse and I’m sticking to it. (whether my glasses are at fault or not, still poor reading)<!---->
Mr Jalp.
Thanks for your encouragement MRJALAPENO. As was mentioned in the subsequent post the pitch is 3 in 12. I think I may go with the 2X4s with no bird's mouth, that is, unless the 2X6's are reasonable. I agree, I am being a little picky about this but I just want to do it right. I don't want a piece of crap in my backyard. I will post pictures after this weekend and when it is complete...Thanks for replying to my post...Regards,
Buzzsaw
Btw Buzz, <!----><!---->
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With such a short sloped shed roof you might consider leaning the supporting post out from the bottom and making the beam’s top mate to the beam nicer. Or maybe build it like a big awning with angle braces on every other rafter and eliminate the need for a beam altogether. Kind of like a feed crib. If you decide on something like that, anchor the roof even better (Screws/lags) for confidence during the occasional snow load. Good luck with your shed. I hope the advice given here has given you confidence too. Its a piece of cake.
Mr Jalp. <!---->
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Thanks for the advice MRJalapeno. I appreciate it...Got a lot accomplished this weekend but haven't gotten to the rafters and roof yet though...Regards,
Buzzsaw