Who ever finished my basement put in a drywall ceiling which is hung from the joists above with 2x4s. The distance from the bottom of the joists to the ceiling is about 2.5 feet. The only reason I can think of that they hung it so far down is because of the A/C ducting which runs through the basement. My plan is to rip out the old ceiling, replace the ducting with flexible ducting, and raise the ceiling by a foot or more if I can. I am an amateur, but I have been involved in many construction projects both as a helper and as a customer.
My question is whether this is a sound idea (worth the trouble just to get a higher ceiling), and whether replacing the rigid ducting with flexible hose ducting (which will simply lay on the new ceiling) will cause any problems with the heating and cooling. The current ducting only services the basement and the floor above, so none of it is very big. I would tell you exact measurements but I’m not in the house right now.
Also as part of this project I would take the opportunity to run many cables and wires to various parts of the house while the ceiling is down, and install new lighting throughout the basement.
Replies
What is the approximate height of the existing ceiling? A lot of people install removable panel drop ceilings in basements for ease of access to utilities.
It's about 7 or 8 feet. I can't tell you exactly, I'm not there tonight!
Don't forget that any electrical junction box must remain accessible.
That shouldn't be any problem at all.
If the flexible ductwork is smaller, you are going to be restricting your heat and ac flow through it, so be careful. I'd check carefully before I'd mess with any of that .
How bad do you need the extra ceiling height? 7 or 8 feet in a basement is pretty dern good. You may be asking for more trouble than its worth.
That said, rather than shrinking the ductwork, why not reroute it? Keep it at the perimeter as much as possible with as few runs crossing your ceiling as need be. Raise those that fit into the bays where you can and soffet the rest.
Again, it seems like an awful lot of effort/expense considering the existing ceiling height. If it were down around six foot, I`d say it was worth it.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"
Jaybird, you are right, it's a lot of effort, but the room down there has so much potential, plus I am already going to rip out a wall and put down some type of insulating subfloor over the slab, and re-insulate the exterior walls, so why not fix the ceiling while I'm at it? It's going to be all torn up for a while anyway!
Franco, I'd rip it out and raise the ceiling too.
Check with the heating experts. YOu may be able to design a rigid ductwork system that has the same carrying capacity with a much lower profile. Instead of an 8'' x 24'' duct, maybe a 4'' by 48'' duct would do the same.
Remember..ask someone who knows...I don't know much about framing and a lot less about heating and cooling!
blueWarning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, all of it is considered bottom of the barrel by Gabe. I am not to be counted amongst the worst of the worst. If you want real framing information...don't listen to me..just ask Gabe!
Yep, you are right, I will have an expert or two look it over before I do anything. Thanks everyone!
Franco
Your AC system was designed and balanced to use the existing ductwork. Flexible duct hose is more restrictive than rigid, so you may get unfavorable results.
Your AC system was designed and balanced to use the existing ductwork. Flexible duct hose is more restrictive than rigid, so you may get unfavorable results.
You would probably be right, except that I removed about one half of the ductwork that this furnace used to supply when I put in a second system for the upstairs and the attic, so I'm not that concerned about the flexible duct hose restricting the flow of air. I guess I'll call the guy who designed the new system and have him take a look at it for me.
work with en HVAC guy that knows a bit about remodeling ...
have a basic "hoped for" floor plan.
Ducts can be moved and resized to make for a better layout usually.
even keeping the same size buy having the long feed lines run alongside proposed walls is a nice option .... if it's to be a TV or bar/party room ... no hard having a boxed in duct ... aka.. bulkhead ... runing long that wall if that's also the best place to put a long couch. Not much harm in losing headroom if everyone's sitting down ...
I'd suggest trying to route it along side the interior partitions as much as possible ... then ... the branch lines could be fit up into the joist space as much as possible.
for what it's worth ... unless there's zero mechanicals up in the ceiling ... I like a nice drop ceiling in the basement for future access ... a combo of drywall and drop ... with well thought out bulkheads ... makes for a nice space.
One thing I like to do is run the duct bulkhead along one side ... then ... build a matching "fake" bulkhead on the other side for balance ... that empty bulkhead makes for a great space to fill with can lights ... if it's bumped out off the side wall a coupla feet ... makes for a great natural visual divider for the "bar space" behind ...
or .. if infront of a TV ... great space to fill with surround speakers too ...
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA
Great ideas, I will probably use a few, especially the bulkhead with can lights and the speakers installed. The basement will be a recreation and TV room. Is a drop ceiling less expensive or easier to put in than drywall? I would think so, but I haven't done either before.
easier depends on the installer ....
probably easier to get better results with the drop ....
get a copy of the Armstrong install instructions ...
most places that sell the stuff have it ... and it's on their website.
One of the few product installation instructions that actually get you thru 99% of the jobs out there ... read them once or twice ... follow them ... pretty much fool proof.
Price wise ... materials for drywall only would be cheaper ...
the cost of the nicer drop panels can add up too ... but nothing outragous ...
me ... I like the look of the 2'x2' panels .... with the 1' square designs ... they'll have a cross bar faked in to seperate the 1' squares ... that look really helps the real support bars blend in .... looks like a painted tin ceiling .... 6" can lights centered on the flat spots look cool too ...
I did some bullnose corners in a basement last year for the first time ... I really liked that look too ... walls and bulkheads .. all rounded corners ... seemed to fit a basement.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA
I think I remember that one basement you did - was that the one with the metal studs and the arches? Leave it to BTers to take something mundane like a basement finish off and turn it in to something really cool! Got the link for the thread? This guy aught to take a look at the pics - this will help this guy spend his money.... :-)
Q- What is the minimum distance you can hang a drop ceiling from the surface above it. Matt
real drop ceiling installers would know better ...
but I think 3 to 4" is safe depending on the size ... 2x2 or 2x4 ...
I like around 6" of wiggle room to get the panels in w/o beating them all up ...
Those pics should still be floating around the pitture section ...
I'll dig thru and see if anything looks familiar.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA
Jeff, 3" is plentty as long as you have the luxury of poking up into the josts too.
I've used white aluminum and a brake to very quickly add drops.
blueWarning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, all of it is considered bottom of the barrel by Gabe. I am not to be counted amongst the worst of the worst. If you want real framing information...don't listen to me..just ask Gabe!
The real minimum distance is whatever leaves the thickness of the panels above the tops of the tees. In most cases this would be 2.5-3 inches.