Replies

1. 
   Jgriff | Aug 19, 2002 04:32am | #1

   Jcd

   I'll leave the experts to explain why this shouldn't be done without all sorts of real waterproofing efforts - more than just tarring the foundation wall I believe.  I forgot to do that and seepage was a distinct problem.

   I've written to tell you of the esthetic effect of such a wall - it's ugly.

   My house, a large center hall colonial is built on a slightly sloping lot with the right side about 3' below the left side. I started with one 6x6 PT log on the left side and built them up as I went to the right. Interrupted by the front door in the center of the building, the wall continued full height, 7 logs above ground, on the right side. 90 degree turn into the foundation wall even with the end of the house. The wife planted all sorts of nice things inside. (Filling it is a bitch without power equipment by the way, as is emptying it, as I learned once I had my revelation regarding water seepage.)

   Looks like one big square box...which it it.  So, we planted plants in front of it.  Now it looks like a big square box with plants in it and plants in front of it.

   Solution: 1. Don't do it. Rather, build a retaining wall to the side (running parallel to the side of the house) to increase the height of the overall front yard and backfill.  That way the land in front of the house looks level. Or, 2.  At the least, make it angular with different levels to break up that solid monotone, mononotous wall.  Not solid across the front parallel with the front of the house. Have the first two or three above ground logs come out at an angle continue across for whatever distance and return to the point at the end. Have courses higher up, only, go straight across.

1. 
   JcDavis2 | Aug 19, 2002 06:03am | #3

   Hi Griff,

   Thanks for the ugly warning (LOL). I hear your point loud and clear... just to clarify though, this is a side yard that slopes down from level on the front of the house to a walkout basement in rear - and I did have in mind a stepped design as the slope progresses, with some climbing vine arbors to further add some visual interest.

   So I think I can cover the "ugly" part :o), but it looks like I'm stuck on the real question, which is water seepage.

   There must be some way to do this. Maybe the answer is the I don't "cheat" and actually build all 4 sides of the box - and line the box with waterproof (something - tarp?)... but of course have proper drainage coming our the front so any water runoff goes out the correct side of the raised bed and not back into the basement!

   Or I suppose I could take the issue up with a professional landscaping company and see if I can pay them for the consulting/engineering solution - and then I can do all the labor and actually build the thing myself... Just trying to educate myself, that's all.

   Thanks very much for sharing your experience with me - I'll definitely take that on board.

   Regards,

   Jcd

1. 
   Jgriff | Aug 19, 2002 09:52am | #4

   No, there's other ways of doing it as I'm sure someone with more technical info will explain.  Do a search for waterproofing methods. I think FH has had an article or two recently about newer methods that involve more than simply applying a coat of tar.  I know it's been part of articles also. Whether a DIY can do all that or not, I just don't know. Good luck.

2. 
   rjw | Aug 19, 2002 04:40am | #2

   am I asking for trouble?

   Yep.

   You'd need real good waterproofing and a written guaranty from yourself that you'll never leave the sprinkler or hose running to long.

3. 
   DavidThomas | Aug 19, 2002 10:29am | #5

   Briefly, one tries to make the foundation reasonably water-proof (damp-proof might be more accurate) AND divert water away from the foundation through the use of good downspouts and positive surface drainage - sloping away from the house.

   Intentionally putting something you will keep wet right at the foundation is asking for trouble. What about something like a horse tough or pond liner that could sit above grade? Fill the bottom with gravel and install a drainage pipe the leads well away from the house so that any excess water isn't dumped onto the foundation.

   David Thomas   Overlooking Cook Inlet in Kenai, Alaska
4. 
   jet | Aug 19, 2002 04:46pm | #6

   Another way is to plant on grade. Leave a walk way up against the foundation and use a heavy plastic that is sloping away from the foundation. Cover the plastic with river rock. KEEP THE WATER AWAY FROM THE FOUNDATION.  I have done this to my home and have never had a problem.

      When I first arrived in my home, the grading was toward the house. So I had to regrade the soil to slope away from the foundation, put in window wells with drains at the bottom and filled with river rock. Now the basement is dry.

     Just be careful of the hose. Hand water all the time. Do not soak the foundation wall. With the buffer of the "walk way" you shouldn't need to anyway.

1. 
   JcDavis2 | Aug 19, 2002 07:32pm | #7

   Guys,

   Thanks for all the feedback on this - I appreciate it!

   Jcd

5. 
   PeteBradley | Aug 23, 2002 07:48pm | #8

   A buddy of mine did this as part of a backyard leveling project.  Used Red cedar timbers for the retaining wall, which follows a sloping side yard and wraps around the bottom of the basement (two tiers, top about 6' up wall) in the back.  Looks fine, doesn't leak (Connecticut).  There's a pretty good slope to the yard, which probably helps drainage away from the house.

   Pete

1. 
   Mongo | Aug 24, 2002 05:09am | #9

   Treat the foundation, build your beds, plant your plantings, then...

   Install a drip irrigation system that runs on a timer. Only the plants get watered, and they only get "X" amount of water 2 times a week or as needed.

   No "oopsIforgotaboutit" resulting in accidental water ponds, and no seepage into your basement.

   Properly mulching the beds will conserve moisture in the soil and further reduce the amount of additional waterings your beds will require.